Arctica Cruising Blog

The Final Few Days | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

We got away from Arisaig on a grey morning, but by the time we rounded
Ardnamurchan Point the weather had improved and we had good sailing in
to Loch Sunart, where we anchored off Charna Island. The showery, gusty
weather pattern resumed, but next day we had an easy sail up the Sound
of Mull, then a storming broad reach across to Oban in a Force 7 wind.
The visitors’ moorings are quite exposed so we had a fairly rough lie
until the wind moderated during the night. We had to motor the next
passage down to Crinan against a southerly wind, but by early afternoon
we were at anchor off Crinan sea lock in bright sunshine. Our intention
was to return to the Clyde by way of the Mull of Kintyre, but the
forecast of a southerly gale prompted us to opt for going through the
Crinan Canal instead. Short handed, we teamed up with another yacht with
four aboard and so made steady progress, but the day of transit proved
the wettest of our whole summer’s cruising. Today we left Ardrishaig and
are spending our last night aboard at Rothesay, before the last leg
tomorrow up river to Dumbarton, where Arctica will be lifted out to
complete a very successful season’s cruising.

Gales and Strong Winds | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

The forecast proved accurate – we had an easterly gale followed by a
westerly gale as a deep depression passed over the Outer Isles. However,
our third day at Castlebay (photo) saw the return of fair weather and we
were able to get ashore for the 13 mile walk round the island. Despite
our familiarity with Barra, we never tire of this walk with its ever
changing views and the contrast between east and west coasts. Departing
the next day, we crossed the Sea of the Hebrides to Rum, passing between
the lonely light of Haskeir and the Humla Rock to its NE, and stopping
outside Loch Scresort to catch mackerel for tea. A calm night followed,
but with the wind rising and another gale expected we slogged down to
the shelter of Arisaig, where we anchored just off the moorings. We are
now on our second day of steady rain, little visibility and strong
winds, with little prospect of change in sight yet. We are comfortable
with plenty of books to read!

Lots More Hills | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

The morning was grey and misty, with a SW wind against us as we made
down to Lochboisdale. It dried up after our arrival, so we walked the
six mile round trip to the Daliburgh Co-op for provisions. At tea-time
the mist cleared off the hills, and the Skipper set off for an evening
ascent of Beinn Ruigh Choinnich and Triuirebheinn above the anchorage.
The next day we anchored in Acarseid Mor, Eriskay and cycled over the
causeway back to South Uist to climb Roneval and Eashaval. We enjoyed a
pint in the Politician before returning aboard. The following day gave
us perfect weather for the day’s expeditions to Muldoanich and Pabbay
for their hills (photo of anchorage at Pabbay). We passed close by a
minke whale off Gighay and saw a dolphin, but sadly no basking sharks.
We are now in Castlebay, Barra fully restocked and ready to cross the
Sea of the Hebrides to the Small Isles, but our departure may be delayed
by the current forecast of strong easterly winds.

Meeting Other Boats | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

We headed out through the Sound of Harris and anchored off Pabbay while
the Skipper climbed its hill – Beinn a’Charnain. The island is small
with sandy beaches and good sheep grazing – all reminiscent of the
larger Taransay. Returning through the Cope Passage, we crossed Vaccasay
Basin again to the shallow Bagh Chaise, from where Crogary na Hoe was
climbed. Then it was off again for the short trip round to Lochmaddy
and a mooring off the pier (photo). The next morning dawned bright and
sunny, so we did not wait for the shop to open, but left early for Loch
Eport a few miles south. There we met Norman and Gillian on Curlew, and
had a good chat with them over coffee before climbing Eaval, a fine hill
giving extensive views over the Uists and Benbecula. In the afternoon,
we moved further south and anchored in the Wizard Pool, Loch Skipport on
the NE of South Uist. Shortly after arriving, we were joined by Milvina
and her Scottish/Canadian crew, whom we had met earlier in the season at
Fair Isle. They had not long returned from Norway, where in Alesund they
had met Peter and Neil in Seol na Mara. We enjoyed a convivial evening
with them, watching a bright orange moon rise in the east.

Back Aboard | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

We resumed our summer cruise at Lochinver after travelling up by bus via
Inverness and Ullapool. It was a fine, balmy evening and we met the
first midges of the trip. A prawn fisherman gave us these four lovely
whiting, which fed us for the next two days. We left on a fine, sunny
but windless morning and motored down to Loch Gairloch, where we moored
at Badachro. We left next morning in a S5 gusting 6, which gave us good
sailing west across to the north of Skye and past Eilean Trodday. We
decided to make best use of the wind and carried on across the Little
Minch to the Sound of Harris, anchoring in Vaccasay Basin at Hermetray.
It was low water springs and Dirt Rock was showing as a nasty row of
rocky teeth. There is now a fish farm in the basin, but there is still
plenty of room to anchor clear of it. The wind gradually died away to
give a quiet evening.

Home again, Home again……………………… | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

The weather seemed to settle into a pattern of warm, sunny days with
thundery showers breaking out in the evenings. We spent an afternoon in
the pub watching Andy Murray’s exit from Wimbledon, and another walking
from Lochinver to the bookshop and cafe at Inverkirkaig – always an
interesting place to visit. We were given some lovely fresh pollack for
tea after failing to catch any ourselves. Lochinver seems a good place
to leave a boat, so we have left Arctica on the pontoon there for four
weeks and gone home to do other things for a spell. We are signing off
for now with this calm photo of warm sunshine and a smooth sea. To be
continued……………………

A Change in the Weather | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

We were joined for lunch by Ken and Ann, who drove over from Kirkwall in
their open-top sports car. A Caterham 7, its dark green body, yellow
nose and red leather seats drew admiring glances in Stromness. Soon
after, Seol na Mara arrived with crew of Peter, Neil and Angus. In the
evening we had a lively ceilidh with everyone in good form. We left
early next morning for the crossing to the N coast, and motored in
bright sunshine and a smooth sea across to Talmine, at the mouth of the
Kyle of Tongue. Five miles out from Hoy and in deep water we were caught
on a fishing buoy, but fortunately got it detached without difficulty.
After dinner some showers started drifting over – the first rain for
many weeks. Another still, bright morning saw us motoring again, west to
Cape Wrath (photo) and south to Kinlochbervie. On the way we saw the
spectacular sight of killer whales breaching repeatedly. Once berthed,
we watched the cockpit thermometer rise steadily to an oppressive 99.7F
(37.6C) but before it could reach 100F there was a dramatic weather
change. In the space of minutes the sky darkened, lightning flashed,
thunder rolled, a sudden howling wind shook the boat and the rain beat
down in torrents. It was certainly dramatic if not downright scary!

The Sun Shines On | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

In Fair Isle we tied alongside ‘Milvina’, a Canadian flagged aluminium
yacht with Canadian/Scottish owners, which overwinters at Ardrossan.
Invited on board for a sundowner, and later a nightcap, we enjoyed a
very sociable evening with her crew. It was southwards again next day
for Orkney, where we spent the night at Stronsay pier. Big spring tides
(Summer solstice) meant we had only two feet under the keel at low water
and had to be careful not to get hung up on our warps. On our way down
to Kirkwall we didn’t allow sufficiently for the fierce 5+kt cross tide
off Muckle Green Holm at the mouth of Westray Firth, and were carried
well off course north of Shapinsay. Entering the Wide Firth, north of
Kirkwall, we heard on the VHF a Dutch yacht calling the Coastguard for
assistance as the Skipper had a suspected broken ankle. The Kirkwall
lifeboat was despatched and we saw crew being put aboard to assist her
in to the marina, and the casualty to a waiting ambulance. Happily, it
was a case of only a sprained ankle. We have lost count of the number of
consecutive sunny days with light easterly winds (photo) and are now in
Stromness, awaiting the arrival of Seol na Mara on her way north.

Lerwick to Fair Isle | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

‘Boys’ Week’ was a great success, but the return of the Mate saw a
great step-up in the standard of catering aboard. That evening, we
found a live music session in the Douglas Arms and the Skipper
contributed a few moothie tunes to the proceedings. On a beautiful
morning, we turned up at Tingwall Airport for our day trip to Foula
(with its two Marilyns) but were warned that thick fog was expected and a return flight could not be guaranteed. Reluctantly, we called off the trip and later kicked ourselves as no fog materialised much north of Orkney. However, we enjoyed a walk into Scalloway and a picnic in the sun on the waterfront. Jim caught the overnight ferry to Aberdeen and next morning we departed for Fair Isle, keen to be off agaain, but sorry to miss the Taste Of Shetland event and associated activities about to start in the tented village on the pier. The photo is of Sumburgh Head just before we rounded it to the west to avoid the ‘roost’. At Fair Isle, we enjoyed a sociable evening with the Canadian/Scottish/English crew of ‘Milvina’.

South from Unst | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

Next morning, the forecast of an impending southerly gale propelled us
into a quick ascent of Saxa Vord, the most northerly Marilyn, and a
short visit to the fascinating Unst Boat Haven museum, before departing
south to Whalsay. Sod’s Law of the Sea was at work again – now that we
had changed direction, so had the contrary wind. We sat out a bad
weather day in Symbister, but visited the restored "bod" (trading booth)
from the days when Shetland traded with the Hanseatic League, based in
Bremen. On the pier we saw this example of wheel clamping Shetland
style! We then returned to Lerwick for Bob to catch the ferry home,
leaving Jim and the Skipper based there for a few days until the Mate
returns. A ferry trip across the sound, a walk across Bressay, and a
short hop on the RSPB rib took us over to the nature reserve of Noss,
with its spectacular cliffs and seabird colonies. Today we bussed to
Hamnavoe on the west coast island of Burra and walked back to Scalloway
and over the hills to Lerwick. The weather was showery, but we dried out
comfortably between showers.

A Long Day | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

A crew changeover saw the Mate off home for a spell, and Jim and Bob
joining ship in Lerwick. Our first port of call was the Out Skerries,
where we enjoyed an evening of wonderful sunshine in this peaceful spot
(photo). We then crossed over to Burravoe at the southern tip of Yell,
and climbed its Marilyn – Hill of Arisdale. This was the Skippers 600th
Marilyn and qualified him for entry to the Marilyn Hall of Fame.
Burravoe pier has been deserted on previous visits, but this time four
fishing boats were berthed (it being a Sunday). This led to an early
start next morning as the boat alongside which we were tied fired up its
engine to leave at 0530. We were over on Fetlar by 0900, anchored at the
west of Tresta Wick, and were soon on the way up Vord Hill. Off again on
our return, we went north to Unst, and joined Southern Cross and a
Swedish Malo at Baltasound pier. Apparently three visiting yachts at the
pontoon was a first. As it was a beautiful evening, we went off and
climbed Valla Field, returning to the boat at 2130 to start making
dinner. It was a long and very enjoyable day.

Back to Lerwick | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

Another early start saw us round Fitful and Sumburgh Heads and in to
Lerwick by lunchtime.A few hours later we were joined alongside by
"Southern Cross", a yacht from the Solent we had met on a few occasions
in previous years. She had been on passage from the Faeroes to Norway
but was driven south to Shetland by the northerly gale. The recent
Marilyn-bagging activity had taken final toll on the Skipper’s
lightweight summer boots, which were replaced with something sturdier.
We made a visit to Scalloway (photo of Shetland Bus memorial) and
lunched on scallops in the excellent "Da Haaf" (old Norse word for
ocean) restaurant in the Fisheries College. A Swedish three-master at
Scalloway pier made a fine sight for visitors from the cruise liner
berthed in Lerwick. The following day we hired a wee car and toured the
north and west, allowing the Skipper to nip up the last two mainland
Marilyns. Later we had a sociable evening with Sue and Matthew from
Southern Cross, blethering until midnight when it was little more than
dusk in this higher latitude.

Down the West Coast | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

An early start saw the Skipper cycling the three miles back to Roe Sound
for a pre-breakfast ascent of Mid Ward on Muckle Roe. Then we sailed
round Muckle Roe and in through the wonderfully named Swarbacks Minn to
the sheltered waters and voes within. The NE 5/6 continued to blow, with
a forecast increase to 7/8, so we made for the pier at the head of Aith
Voe and berthed inside it in complete shelter next to the Lifeboat. Sure
enough, the wind got up and white horses raced past the end of the pier,
but we were scarcely disturbed, apart from the howl of the wind in the
rigging. A lull for a couple of hours was enough for a quick ascent of
Scalla Field, above East Burra Voe. Fine sailing in the continuing NE
wind took us across St Magnus’ Bay, through the Sound of Papa Stour,and
down the dramatic coast of cliffs, caves, geos, stacks and skerries
backed by green pasture land – a softer landscape than the barer north.
After a night at the neat little marina at Skeld we sailed on south to
the Bay of Scousburgh (photo), excellent shelter from the north, with a
white beach at its head where a large group of seals were basking. From
there it was a doddle to climb the Ward of Scousburgh, with its horrible
summit of masts, extensive buildings, roads and a scrap car!

Shetland Voes and Anchor Woes | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

From Symbister, Whalsay we went north through Linga Sound, round Lunna
Ness and south to Dales Voe (photo), a fjord-like voe below Dalescord
Hill, which was duly climbed. We left again immediately to catch the
last of the ebb tide through the turbulent Yell Sound, but it was still
slow going against a persistent northerly wind. We crossed the head of
Sullom Voe, with its huge oil storage tanks, tanker berths and constant
flame stack to Gluss Voe, where we anchored for the night – good holding
but rather exposed to the north. More hard northing was made the next
morning to reach Fethaland Point, the northmost point of the mainland,
at slack water and gain the benefit of the flood tide down the west
coast. We intended to go in to Hamna Voe, but decided it was too rough
to attempt the tricky entrance on a first visit. Plan B saw us rounding
Esha Ness and crossing St. Magnus’ Bay to the island of Muckle Roe,
where we entered Roe Sound. Despite an extremely shallow entrance to and
limited room within the inner pool, we attempted to anchor, but thick
kelp prevented the anchor from holding, so we had to move on to Plan C.
This meant a short move north to Mangaster Voe, where again thick kelp
prevented safe anchoring, but we were able to pick up a vacant mooring
just behind the innermost fish farm.

Shetland Marilyns | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

From the anchorage at Sumburgh we climbed Fitful Head, near the cliffs
of which the oil tanker Braer came ashore some years ago. The main road
crosses the end of the recently extended airport runway, and we were
briefly held there on our return as a plane took off. A S4-5 gave us a
fine sail north, passing inside Mousa to view the Broch, and out to Noss
Head to see the bird cliffs towering above us. A sizeable sea had built
up there which added to the dramatic situation. In contrast, it was
peaceful in Lerwick where we berthed in the Small Boat Harbour, meeting
up again with Willie in Quaver. We were the only two Brits among the
Norwegians, Finns, Danes and Dutch. A short ferry crossing took us over
to Bressay, where we climbed the Ward, groaning at yet another set of
hilltop communications masts. A better walk the next day was from
Cunningsburgh to Royl Field (photo of Foula from there) and along the
hills forming the spine of the south mainland to Scrae Field. This part
of the island is so narrow that we had views of both east and west
coasts. Andrew left us at the end of his trip and we made the short trip
north in perfect weather to Whalsay and took a visitor’s berth in
Symbister, a harbour busy with inter-island ferries and inshore fishing
boats.

Fair Isle | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

We were disappointed to find that the Bird Observatory was not only
closed but also largely demolished. A replacement is going to built on
the same site and should be ready for next season. In glorious weather,
we walked right round the island and climbed Ward Hill. A highlight of
the day for locals and visitors alike was the arrival of two Shetland
Ponies on the Good Shepherd. The outward trip to Sumburgh had seen a
scrapped car sent off on its final trip. Strong southerly winds
overnight brought intermittent showers the next day and we managed short
walks in the dry spells. At 0600 the next morning three yachts left for
Shetland, passing the Polar Star, an adventure cruise ship, anchored out
off North Haven. Although winds were now light, there was a residual sea
running in the notorious area between Fair Isle and Shetland, but the
Sumburgh roost was not in evidence. We anchored in Grutness Voe just off
Sumburgh Airport, well sheltered from the next blow from the south.

Westray | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

On leaving Rousay we called in at Egilsay and visited the remains of St.
Magnus’ Church where in the 12th century Magnus, joint Earl of Orkney,
was treacherously murdered by his cousin and joint Earl Hakon. Then on
to Westray in beautiful weather, and straight off for Fitty Hill, the
highest point of the island, where we found many nests of gulls,
oystercatchers, fulmars and a goose. The next day, armed with detailed
directions, we set off in search of Primula Scotica, a tiny, very rare
flower which grows in a few scattered locations. The walk included a
visit to the Wheeling Steen Gallery, a superb place with wonderful
artwork, photography and coffee shop. On Sunday, after a walk to Noup
Head, Alison left us for the return journey to Inverness

Kirkwall and Northwards | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

On our return to Kirkwall (photo of Old Harbour with spire of St Magnus
Cathedral behind) we found that summer temperatures had not yet arrived,
but after a day of boat chores we were rewarded with warm sunshine.
There was a sudden flurry of activity in the marina as local boat-owners
turned out to make ready for the season. We were joined by Andrew and
Alison for a few days and immediately set off for a walk from Finstown
back to Kirkwall over the tops of Keelylang Hill and Wideford Hill. We
were caught in a lengthy shower, but a fine evening ensued. Today we
left Kirkwall and motored north to Rousay, where the flat calm
conditions allowed us to berth at the pier. An easy ascent of Blotchnie
Fiold, the highest hill, saw us in afternoon showers again – this
weather pattern seems established with more of the same expected
tomorrow. Our next port of call will be Westray, where we look forward
to a feast of dressed Orkney crab – ordered today and fresh landed tomorrow.

Orkney Sunset | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

An Orkney sunset seems an apt way to sign off this blog for a couple of
weeks. We are off to the South of France to join Caroy at the start of
her passage back to the UK through the French canal system. Temperatures
there are around the 70s – a world of a difference from those prevailing
in the Northern Isles. Hopefully, summer weather will have reached there
by the time of our return.

Stromness…..and all that jazz….. | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

Lack of wind necessitated motoring to Orkney from Cape Wrath, but meant
we could round spectacularly close in under the cliffs and lighthouse,
and pass well inside the Duislic Rock. A long, uneventful 13 hour
passage took us in through Hoy Sound and up to the marina behind
Stromness Pier. There a local marine electronics man helped us fix the
autopilot – its like having an extra crewman back again. Once more we
took advantage of free buses to do some sightseeing and climb another
hill. The Stromness Hotel is hosting most of Orkney’s Jazz Festival (a
rather grandiose description of two trad bands from Edinburgh playing
over a long weekend) so last night we enjoyed some good old traditional
jazz from Bill Salmond’s Louisiana Ragtime Band and the Diplomats of
Jazz. An interesting character was the bass player who played in both
bands, dressed in tuxedo playing euphonium in one band and casually
dressed on double bass in the other. Fortunately he was a also
quick-change artist between band sets. We went across to Hoy this
morning but the exposed anchorage, cold wind, and cloud nudging the
hilltops dissuaded us from a hill trip – so we will return on another
occasion and in better conditions.

Hill Names, Long and Short | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

A grey, wet morning came as a surprise after ten days of good, dry
weather, but the wind was a steady SE F5, giving us good sailing up past
Stoerhead and across Eddrachillis Bay to Handa, the bird reserve island.
Here the breeze faltered but the weather brightened, and we motorsailed
the rest of the passage to Kinlochbervie, arriving in mid afternoon. We
were only the second visiting yacht at the brand new pontoons in the
outer harbour. Although bright, it stayed cool so the evening stroll was
kept short. Today, in beautiful weather again, we took the Durness -
Lairg bus, the Mate going on to Lairg but the Skipper dropped off at
Kinloch, Loch More to climb the Corbett Meallan Liath Coire Mhic
Dhughaill. This hill has the distinction of the longest hill name in
Scotland, beating runner-up Meallan Odhar Doire nan Gillean by 3
letters. This turned thoughts to the shortest hill names, of which 9
have only 5 letters (An Dun, Arkle, Belig, Eaval, Hecla, Orval, Smean,
Sotan, Tinto) and 26 runners-up have 6 letters. Brevity prevails, it
seems. We hope for a fair forecast for rounding Cape Wrath, but there is
a likelihood of strong to gale force winds overnight.

Lochinver | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

A short hop round Rubha Coigach and across Enard Bay took us in to
Lochinver by 1000, where we tied up at the now extended pontoons in the
harbour. The weather was perfect, warm and sunny after a cool start, so
we spent most of the day relaxing and reading in the cockpit, save for a
walk round the village bay. The Skipper bought a nice wee book "Of Big
Hills and Wee Men" which tells of the adventures of some Clydeside boys
on the Munros at much the same time as his own earlier days. Next
morning, the early bus took the Mate to Ullapool and dropped the Skipper
near Inchnadamph for an ascent of the Marilyn Beinn Reidh. With only 2
1/2 hours before the return bus, it needed a bit of a push, but was
comfortably done. Back aboard by 1115, a mist descended for a few hours
but cleared later to restore the view of the dominating peak of Suilven.

Coigach | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

A second day at Portree saw the Skipper climbing Beinn Dearg Mor in the
Red Cuillin and Beinn na Greine above the town, while the Mate went to
Armadale to visit the Castle, Gardens and Museum of the Isles. Moving on
again, we continued up the Sound of Raasay and through Caol Rona to the
Inner Sound, where a sailing wind got up. In fact it was soon gusting to
Force 7, and we charged along double reefed to Loch Gairloch and put in
to Badachro, which was sheltered. Conditions were excellent today -
bright sunshine, clear blue skies but cool, giving good visibility for
the Coigach Hills of Cul Mor, Stac Pollaidh and Cul Beag as we
approached the anchorage at Isle Ristol near Achiltibuie. Golden Eagles
were spotted from nearby Meall na Fheadain, which also gave fine views
of the Summer Isles and a panorama of weel kent hills. Later we enjoyed
a visit aboard from Paul and Clare, a holidaying couple the Mate met at
the Altandhu Smokehouse.

The Storr | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

The fine weather and our good progress on the way to Orkney have tempted
us to spend a little time based at Portree. Skye is not always so kind
with its weather! The place is busy with tourists (one is never a
tourist oneself!) so the Skipper went off up the hill and climbed the
two Grahams (2000ft+) The Storr and its neighbour Hartaval. The former
is particularly dramatic with its cliffs and pinnacles, notably the Old
Man which is much visited, but few venture to the summit. The return to
Portree was along the southern end of the Trotternish Ridge, which forms
the spine of this northern part of Skye. Visibility was good, except
where smoke blew across from heath fires set on the western moors.

Onwards to Skye | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

The tide helped carry us north through the Kylerhea narrows, through
Loch Alsh and under the Ske Bridge into Broadford Bay. The first glimpse
of the Cuillin of Skye revealed some lingering snowbeds, a reminder that
despite the fine weather it is still only mid-April. We passed through
Caolas Scalpay, a narrow channel which all but dries completely between
Scalpay and Skye, with a least depth of 6ft of water under the keel.
Despite careful tidal calculations, there is always a frisson of
excitement as the moment of truth draws near! Then through the Sound of
Raasay, noting the extensive works in progress for the new ferry
terminal in Churchton Bay, and on to Portree with its multicoloured
frontage rivalling (and probably surpassing) that of Tobermory.

A Visit to Eigg | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

Laig Bay (of the ‘singing sands’) on Eigg provides temporary anchorage
in offshore winds, so we took advantage of such conditions for a short
visit. While the Mate walked the road over to Galmisdale, the Skipper
took to the heights above Cleadale. Steeply up through a breach in the
imposing cliffs, then easily but dramatically along the cliff edge to
the summit – Sgorr an Fharaidh 1,115ft – then a descent from the north
end of the cliffs. As there was no summit cairn, a small one was started
with the hope that others will add to it in future. As the camera had
been left aboard there is no photo of Eigg, but this shot of the Rum
Cuillin from Orval makes amends – there can be few, if any, neater
mountain groups in Scotland. The SE breeze gave us a good sail up the
Sound of Sleat to Isle Ornsay, where we spent the night.

Round Ardnamurchan | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

A bright morning saw us leave Crinan after a leisurely start, to catch
the tide at the Dorus Mor and go with the flood up the Sound of Luing,
past Pladda, Easdale, Insh and Kerrera to Oban, where we tied alongside
a fishing boat for an hour while stores were replenished from Lidl (‘the
last until Orkney’ bemoaned the Mate). It being Easter weekend, the town
was busy and we were not tempted to linger. Off again, we crossed to the
Sound of Mull and down to Loch Aline where we spent the night. The
morning gave us beautiful weather and perfect visibility for continuinig
down the Sound, round Ardnamurchan Point (the westernmost point of
mainland Britain) and north past Muck and Eigg to Rum, where we
anchored. The Skipper was landed ashore for an evening ascent of Orval,
about five miles distant from Kinloch.The effort was rewarded by a
summit circular panorama of hills, islands and sea. The photo from above
Kinloch looks back down the glen and across to the hills of Knoydart.

Round the Mull | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

With the gale continuing, we pottered about Campbeltown and the Skipper
climbed Beinn Ghuilean just outside the town. Gale driven mist and a
knolly plateau made finding the actual summit difficult, and involved
much distance and effort – too much for a wee hill! In the morning we
put our faith in the forecast of easing winds and set off in a SSE
gusting over 30kts, giving us a hard slog down the Kintyre shore.
However, as we bore round towards Sanda , the wind began to moderate,
the sun came out and soon all was well with the world again. We caught
the tide at the Mull of Kintyre and rode it up past our intended
destination of Gigha and right on up to Crinan – a total distance of 62
nautical miles. We anchored off the sea-lock, but were too tired for a
sortie ashore.

Whisky Macs | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

Fully equipped again, we were glad to get away from Largs Yacht Haven
where we had been dwarfed by large motor boats. The forecast was for
strong westerlies and we were not disappointed! Passing through the
Cumbrae Pass and past Garroch Head on Bute, we made straight across to
the Arran shore to seek some shelter from the head-on seas. Following
the coast round to Lochranza, we were finally able to make way under
sail alone, down the Kilbrannan Sound to Campbeltown. The wind was a
steady F6 with 30kt gusts and we made good progress under single reefed
sails. The sun came out and the sea turned a sparkling blue, lifting our
spirits and raising false hopes of rounding the Mull of Kintyre on the
morrow. Instead, we have a SE gale and poor visibility – not weather for
our intended passage – and are lying fairly comfortably, if somewhat
bumpily, alongside in Campbeltown awaiting better conditions. We found
this aptly-named bar close to the harbour, two doors along from Rab’s
Chippie – apparently the gastronomic centre of the town!

Arctica Sets Sail | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

It is so good to have water under the keel again and feel the boat come
alive – so different from the unnatural, static stance on the hard over
the winter. We left Dumbarton just before HW on the first day of our
2009 cruise. With some east in the breeze we were able to motorsail
downriver to Toward Point, then run goosewinged across Rothesay Bay and
down the East Kyle to the Burnt Isles. There we turned in to a
stiffening wind and motorsailed down the West Kyle and across to
Lochranza on Arran. We were none too early as a team was still at work
setting up the visitors’ moorings for the season. Reminding us of our
early season start, it was latterly cold and raw out on the water, so
the first hot Whisky Macs of the trip went down well on arrival. Trying
to send this blog entry later on our newly installed state-of-the-art
communications setup (thank you, Finlay) , we discovered that a vital
piece of kit had been left behind, so are having to go back to Largs for
a trip home to collect it. As ‘senior moments’ seem to inexorably
multiply, we hope they don’t escalate into a ‘senior season’!

Back to the Clyde | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

The first stop on our return leg to the Clyde was Carsaig, a few miles
south of Crinan – an attractive village set round the bay, offering a
nice half-mile walk across the peninsula to the more sheltered but less
accessible Tayvallich. On a dreich, windless morning we started down the
Sound of Jura but after a couple of hours the weather improved and we
reached Gigha in bright sunshine, seeing a dolphin with calf in
Ardminish Bay. Ashore, we enjoyed playing in an impromptu music session,
walked to Achamore Gardens, and at night stargazed into the very clear
sky. Mike left us the next morning, taking the ferry to Tayinloan, and
we set off to round the Mull of Kintyre. Off the lighthouse, we met with
/Seol na Mara /and passed across her Skipper’s bunnet, which Peter had
sorely missed. There followed four hours of frustrating motor-sailing
without making any appreciable headway against the fierce tide – but as
it eased we were able to continue to Campbeltown. After a showery day at
Brodick, we made up to Rhu, where the Mate gutted the bucketful of
mackerel we caught off Inverkip. Our final day started with a visit to
Iain and Barbara in Helensburgh, then we motored up-river to Dumbarton
where we were immediately de-masted and lifted out for the winter. Our
summer cruising had occupied 121 days, covered 1,760 nautical miles, and
visited 70 anchorages.

Rathlin to Oban | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

Our second attempt at crossing to Islay was different – instead of too
much wind we had too little and had to motorsail. Unfortunately, steady
rain started at Port Ellen so none of us ventured ashore. Ann left on
the ferry to Kennacraig the next morning and the three of us left
shortly thereafter, ghosting through the Ardmore Islands inside passage
and catching a good haul of mackerel before picking up a fair wind for
Craighouse, Jura. From there we had a cracking sail up the Sound of Jura
to Ardfern, where we anchored and went ashore for a drink in the Galley
of Lorne inn. After a peaceful night we got away to catch the flood tide
through the Dorus Mor and Sound of Luing, turning west for a first visit
to the Black Islands, where we lunched in the good anchorage. A planned
landing on the Garvellachs was abandoned when we found the Garbh Eileach
anchorage to be tiny with no swinging room, so we made on to Oban, where
we moored as usual on a vacant mooring just off the esplanade. A trip
ashore saw us restocked for the final week of cruising, with lift-out
booked at Dumbarton for Thursday 4 September.

Portrush and Ballycastle | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

Sailing past the Giant’s Causeway (unimpressive from seaward – dwarfed
by columnar cliffs along the north Antrim coast) we reached Portrush,
and dined at the much-recommended Harbour Bistro – liked the food but
not the two hour wait for it. Next day we took the train to Londonderry
and walked round the old city walls, visited the siege museum and
browsed the second-hand bookshops and charity shops. A poor weather
forecast ruled out rounding Malin Head so we stayed another day in
Portrush. Mike and the Skipper accepted an invitation to crew on a
racing yacht, which was fun but wet in a Force 7 wind. Continuing
westerlies made us abandon plans to go out west to Tory Island, so we
headed back east to Ballycastle, an attractive resort with a smallish
marina. After strong overnight winds the forecast of SW 5-7 was ideal
for sailing north to Islay, and we set off with barely 10kts of wind
registering. However it blew up suddenly, and in no time we had a W 7
gusting 8 with big seas from wind over strong tide, and a small tear
appeared in the reefed headsail. We turned and ran downwind into
Rathlin, where we await better conditions before continuing north.

Rathlin Island | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

With Mike and Ann aboard, our destination on a lunchtime departure from
Campbeltown was Rathlin, making use of the ebb tide through the North
Channel. A northerly 5 gusting 6 gave us a stirring sail down to Sanda
Sound, but we then decided to spare Ann (not a happy sailor) the longer
haul and put in for the night at Sanda south anchorage, tucked under
‘The Ship’ lighthouse,well sheltered from the sea running outside. The
demands of tide saw us on our way again in darkness at 0415 into a
westerly breeze, with rough seas at first until clear of the Mull of
Kintyre. Thereafter the crossing was easy, but requiring a huge course
offset to allow for the strong cross-tide. At Rue Point, the S end of
Rathlin, and slightly behind schedule, we ran into a 5kt tide race and
spent most of an hour clawing our way through to slack water and into
the shelter of the breakwaters to tie up alongside the pontoon at 0915.
After a hearty breakfast and catching up a couple of hours sleep we went
ashore for walks. Rathlin is an attractive island, popular with day
trippers who are soon left behind as you walk quiet roads bordering
fields of black cattle fattening on the lush grass. There is a bird
reserve, but a trip there will have to await our next visit.

Bangor and Glenarm | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

We spent a day in Bangor, taking it easy and visiting the many charity
shops and the excellent second-hand bookshop. A pint of Guinness in The
Black Boat Bar went down well. At night, the Skipper returned for the
live music but was disappointed to find it was not traditional Irish.
However, in the back room at Fealty’s Bar there was a good going
session with flute, banjo, 3 fiddles, mandolin and guitar. They were
happy for a moothie to join them and the music went on until 2am. A wet
and windy forecast induced us to stay for a second day, but the actual
weather was not so bad although heavy rain started in late afternoon and
continued through the night, causing widespread flooding throughout
Northern Ireland. Today we sailed to Glenarm with its charming little
marina and helpful harbourmaster. We walked the three miles to Carnlough
and confirmed that its small harbour (photo) has no room for a visiting
yacht. Tomorrow we head for Campbeltown to be joined by Mike and Ann for
a spell.

Girvan and Portpatrick | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

Heading SE to Girvan with a reef in the sails, we had a S5/6 to give us
a stirring sail with Ailsa Craig acting as route marker. With a little
lee provided by the shore, the seas off the harbour entrance were
somewhat reduced and we were sheltered by the breakwater before crossing
the sand bar, with 3ft of water to spare, into the harbour. The town,
like many a fishing/seaside resort, has a run down air – boarded up
shops, downmarket offerings and little sign of reinvestment – but is in
a nice setting with low green hills behind. We moved south to
Portpatrick (photo) on a windless day, and into the small harbour with
its tight and twisting entrance without difficulty. On a hot summer’s
day the place was alive with visitors – kids on the beach and fishing
from rocks, outdoor tables for food and drink, an amusement arcade and
folk strolling everywhere. The next leg took us SW across the North
Channel to Bangor, Co Down with Ireland’s self proclaimed best marina,
where we are spending two nights. Bangor is a prosperous town with well
developed tourism and a good range of facilities.

Music… at last | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

It was a lively evening in Port Ellen as we played in the Ardview Inn -
including a bit of highland dancing in the tiny lounge bar. While Seol na
Mara sailed for Rathlin, we spent the next day on Islay, bussing to
Portnahaven, a very pretty village centred round a shallow harbour. The two
boats met up again at Sanda (off the Mull of Kintyre) on Friday evening for
the Bowling Harbour Ceilidh Band weekend at the Byron Darnton inn, and were
joined by Mike who had spent most of the day bussing over from Fife. Sanda
is a lovely little island, more Hebridean than Clyde, with an excellent pub
serving good food, letting cottages, bunkhouse and camping space. It is
popular with the local worthies from Southend, who come and go in all states
of inebriation in a variety of ribs and speedboats. We had a weekend of
music, song and drink, punctuated by an overnight SE gale, which saw a
number of yachts leaving in the early morning – but the holding is excellent
and we rode it out comfortably. On Sunday afternoon, after a final outdoor
session in the sunshine, we sailed off to Campbeltown and later saw Mike off
on the bus for home.

Jura and Islay | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

The regatta comprised four sailing dinghies and six rowing boats -
hardly the stuff of Cowes Week – but great fun was had by all. In the
evening, entertainment was provided by “The Wherries”, a three man
outfit who were big on audience participation. The ensuing dance with
“Skerryvore” started at 0145 (!!), and their six-man full-on
amplification in the small hall was so overpowering that we left after a
couple of sets. The next day we caught the tide through the Sound of
Islay and went into Loch Tarbert, Jura and spent the rest of the day
aboard in intermittent rain. The morning proved brighter, encouraging
the Skipper to don his boots for the three-Marilyn round of Scrinadle,
Corra Bheinn and Beinn Bhreac. At 10pm we spotted Seol na Mara going in
to anchor at the narrows, spoke on the VHF, and joined her in the
morning for a wee refreshment. We then sailed in company down through
the Sound of Islay to the Ardmore Islands, a favourite anchorage of both
skippers, where we enjoyed a joint dinner followed by a ceilidh. Today
we left together in thick drizzle for Port Ellen, where we are berthed
in the neat marina, restocking with food and drink.

Crinan to Jura | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

After a short visit home, we travelled back to Crinan by bus and taxi
to resume our summer cruise. The Canal has been closed for two weeks
pending a temporary repair to the Crinan sea lock where the sill has
collapsed, preventing one of the gates from seating properly. As a
result, many holiday sailors are having to round the Mull of Kintyre for
the first time. Today we left Goat Island in Loch Craignish and headed
down the Sound of Jura. Initially misty and atmospheric, it became foggy
then rained steadily so we only persevered as far as Craighouse, Jura
where we picked up a visitors mooring. Later on the weather improved,
the Paps of Jura lost their cloud cover and patches of blue sky
appeared. In the evening we were treated to a display of flying by a
light aircraft which came over the bay, did a couple of circuits and
tight turns at mast height, and buzzed a large motor boat before
disappearing. Among the boats here for the night are a another Westerly
Corsair and a Fastnet 34 “Skibbereen”. We learned there is a small boat
regatta here tomorrow (the new dinghy pontoon was officially opened
today) so we may decide to stay, watch the fun and go to the ceilidh in
the village hall.

Its a Drag!… | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

……but not if our anchor had been this size! With the intention of
starting an anticlockwise sail round Mull we anchored in Loch Aline, but
sat out the next day in really dreich conditions. That night the wind
shifted right round and blew up strongly, and at 0245 we were wakened by
a horn sounding and searchlight flashing – a nearby yacht had seen that
we had started to drag into the shallows. In darkness, we got the anchor
up and motored out to re-anchor in good holding. The Mate sat up on
anchor watch until daylight, while the Skipper got his head down again.
The morning saw a steady force 6 and breaking waves charging up the
Sound of Mull, so plans were quickly changed and we ran with the weather
back up to Duart Point and down into Loch Spelve. Today we crossed back
from Mull, down through Cuan Sound to Loch Shuna, and into Craobh Haven
where laundrette, showers, shop, chandlery, fuel and water are all to
hand. Everything is fine except the weather, which is showery – where
have the sunny days of May and June gone?

Around Oban and Mull | Click photo to enlarge

Originally uploaded by arctica

We met more and more yachts as we passed through the Sound of Mull
again, with the holiday season now in full swing. Picking up a mooring
at Craignure, the ferry port for Mull, we went ashore in hot sunshine
for a walk to Torosay Castle, with its mile of miniature steam railway
(photo). During the evening the northerly breeze, to which we were
exposed, freshened making the anchorage uncomfortable, so we made a late
move across to Bernera, off the west coast of Lismore, which was
sheltered. With Dunstaffnage Marina full for the weekend with Classic
Malt Cruisers we had to use Oban to pick up Pat and Stan for the
weekend, but managed to secure a mooring close inshore off the esplanade
- handy for the short transfer from the slipway. With a Force 6 on the
nose on Saturday we abandoned the planned visit to Tobermory (the first
for Pat and Stan) after going as far as Craignure, then turned about for
a comfortable sail down to Loch Spelve, where we spent the rest of the
day. On Sunday we sailed over to Puilladobhrain for a short stay, then
up through the Sound of Kerrera back to Oban for a late lunch and
farewell to Pat and Stan. Then off again to Loch Aline, where we arrived
as a dreich drizzle set in for the rest of the evening.