Arctica Cruising Blog

Back at Sandpoint, Dumbarton ready for lift out at the end of our four month trip.

In busy Lochranza anchorage tonight – destination Dumbarton tomorrow.

Now waiting at Port Ellen for favourable conditions to round the Mull of Kintyre. The forecast for tomorrow is not promising.

Sound of MUll from Beinn a’ Ghraig

The fine but largely windless weather continued as we visited anchorages at Loch na Keal (Scarisdale), Erraid (Tinker’s Hole) and S Mull (Carsaig) enjoying good hillwalking. The settled conditions allowed us to visit the W of Jura for the convenient ascent of Ben Garrisdale. The holding was not good in the rounded stones typical of the local raised beaches, and an overnight stay would be inadvisable. We sped through the Corryvreckan Sound on the strong ebb tide, continuing through the Dorus Mor and up Loch Shuna to Melfort. This little area has been developed as a holiday/timeshare/resort – well done using many existing buildings, neat and tidy, but with rather too many do/don’t signs although not without some charm. Our stroll from the pier took us past the ‘Shower of Herring’ pub/restaurant where we were tempted to eat out on the verandah on beautiful evening. After the next day’s hill a short trip took us to the sailing centre of Ardfern, where we had the use of friend Willie’s vacant mooring. We then had a near perfect sail down the Sound of Jura in an easterly breeze, which gradually increased to a NE6 as we rounded into Loch Sween. Off the large and busy caravan site at Castle Sween small boats were having difficulties in the now Force 7 gusting 8. We went over to check on a constantly capsizing dinghy sailor but he was winning back to shore without help; then three boys in a rowing boat waved for assistance. By the time we got sails down and motored back they had given up rowing and were blown ashore on the opposite side of the loch. We made a few passes as close as we dared in the shallow water of a lee shore, but they were in no danger and appeared unwilling or unable to row out to us to be taken off. However, a rib soon came over from the campsite and we left him in charge of the situation. We plugged on up the loch into the weather and eventually turned in to well sheltered Tayvallich Bay through the narrow gap in its protecting reef. Here we met ‘Mara’ and spent a pleasant afternoon in the company of Helen and John.

Glendebadel Bay, W Jura

Temporary anchorage at Glendebadel Bay on W coast of Jura, below Ben Garrisdale.

Anchored at Scarisdale Rocks, Loch na Keal, West Mull.

Rainbow – Loch Carron

Rum – Late Evening

Full Moon – Arisaig

After our break we picked up /Arctica/ at Portree and returned to Plockton to await the arrival of Bob and Hilary, who joined us for a day – lunch at Poll Domhain south of Applecross, and dinner back on the mooring. /Rebecca/ arrived that evening, allowing us a chat with Ken before we left next morning. On a beautiful sunny day we started south – through Loch Alsh and Kylerhea into the Sound of Sleat – overnighting at Isle Ornsay before continuing to Arisaig, with its tortuous but well marked entrance channel. While waiting for Innes and his friend Jim from London to join us for the weekend, the Skipper had a grand day on the hills south of Loch Morar while the Mate took a bus trip to Fort William. As time was short, we did as much in the weekend as possible – sadly no sailing breeze, but continuous sunshine. After a night at Loch Scavaig in the shadow of the southern Cuillin we visited off-lying Soay, where there are the remains of the shore factory of the basking shark fishery operated in the early 1950′s by Tex Geddes, who had previously been with Gavin Maxwell on his original venture, which used a converted steam drifter as a factory ship. That night was spent at Loch Scresort, Rum where we dined at Kinloch Castle in celebration of Innes’ recent birthday. Today we continued south from Arisaig, making the six hour trip down to Loch Cragaig, Ulva with plans to spend a few days on the west coast of Mull. Hopes of some real sailing are not high as only a very light breeze is expected for the rest of the week.

–

Arctica was at Loch Scresort, Rum overnight 4/5 Aug 12.

In Crowlin Anchorage

The Quiraing from Bioda Buidhe

On a quiet afternoon we went through the Strome Narrows and in to upper Loch Carron with two objectives – to see the dolphins and climb a couple of hills – but succeeded in neither. The dolphins which entertained us so well on our last visit did not show up this time, and the approach to the hills from that side would have involved slogging up through deep, dense and wet bracken without adequate outerwear. We retreated and went over to the Crowlin Islands to spend the night in the beautifully sheltered narrow anchorage between the islands. We then continued across to Skye, meeting a large group of dolphins off Raasay. They played round the bow and criss-crossed below us for a time, then were suddenly gone but remained visible in small numbers throughout the Sound. We moored up in Portree as a base for a few days, and Arctica will now remain there for a week while the Mate visits London and the Skipper bags a few more hills.

Cuillins from Carbost

Sunset – Carbost

Pontoons at Mallaig

We found that there is a bus service at Carbost, despite information to the contrary on the Stagecoach website, so the Mate was able to take local walks and a trip to Portree while the Skipper was on the hills. A group of other yachts came in, all flying their large Malts Cruise flag, and looked well against the colourful sunset. A fine morning saw us starting early out of Loch Harport, down the Skye coast then across to the Point of Sleat and Mallaig, where we wanted to sample the new pontoons. Verdict – too expensive, no toilets or showers (yet! – but we’ve heard that line before), and exposed to swell from the north. We spent a bumpy night alongside, but then were offered a discount on the normal rate. We motored north into the persistent wind from that direction, timing our arrival at the Kylerhea narrows to catch the young flood tide. Continuing through Loch Alsh and under the Skye Bridge, we made for Plockton, where Seol na Mara was resting at anchor out in the bay. It was the Sailing Club Gala Day with much activity in the village, including a visit from the Kyle Lifeboat.

Approaching Neist Point

Macleod’s Maidens, off Idrigill Point

An early rise saw the Skipper off up Ben Geary before 0800, but at that hour the morning mist still clung to the summit, obscuring what should have been a fine view. Back at the boat and stowing away the oars, the temporary hitch on the dinghy painter proved to be just that, and the dinghy took off out to sea in the strong breeze. We had a lot of chain out but raised the anchor as fast as we could, by which time the dinghy was half a mile out and no longer visible – but it was recovered without difficulty. After that sudden start we continued round to Dunvegan where we moored in good shelter. The afternoon was clear and sunny, allowing another hill to be ‘ticked off’. We sat out two days of N5-7 then left in moderate conditions, enjoying a good sail south round Neist Point (with its lighthouse) and Idrigill Point (with Macleod’s Maidens) and into NW Loch Bracadale, anchoring overnight in Loch Bharcasaig. We are now at Carbost, Loch Harport, where there is Talisker Distillery, pub, PO and shop but sadly no bus service during school holidays. Time to get out the bikes?

Scalpay Sunset

We spent a night in Scalpay North Harbour – the beautiful still evening giving a lilac sunset. Today we crossed the Minch to Loch Bay, Skye, running into a thick fog which obscured everything until thinning just before our landfall. The wind suddenly died so we fished briefly, the Mate catching mackerel to try out her new fish smoker. The wind rose again as we anchored in Ardmore Bay and was soon blowing F6 gusting 7 but from a safe NE direction, and the sun shone. It has now been blowing for seven hours so our anchor is well dug in. We judged it unwise to venture ashore in the dinghy, so have been catching up on our reading.

Grey Seals

Thrift

Back in Lochinver, we had a visit for a couple of days from Euan &  Morag and Jim & Linda.  As ever, it was a great reunion with much  merriment. A powercut following a fierce thunderstorm thwarted plans  for dinner at the Mission, but we found that the Pie Shop & Restaurant  had a gas grill and could serve us delicious steaks. After crossing  the Minch to Stornoway we met up with Ken & Isabel, and found that we  had just missed John & Helen on their boat by a day. After a quiet  Sunday – Lewis is closed on the Sabbath! – the bus pass was flashed  for a trip to climb the final Marilyn of the Outer Hebrides (excepting  St Kilda’s stacks, which are a different kettle of fish). In the  evening Peter and Angus came in on Seol na Mara, so we played a few  tunes together after dinner. The pontoons are full as the intended  marina extension has not materialised, although the necessary harbour  dredging has been done – maybe next year?? At least diesel is  available again from the pier, unlike on our last visit.

Fulmar

Lichen & Thrift

Hoy Head

We set off from North Ronaldsay for Fair Isle but soon found ourselves in rough seas and making slow progress into a strong NE wind. Our patience finally cracked after weeks of such conditions so we turned around, temporarily abandoning thoughts of Shetland. After a day at Pierowall, Westray (a favourite place) we had the wind with us to head south to Stromness, then Kinlochbervie. A close encounter near Cape Wrath with a large coaster which ignored the collision regulations relating to an overtaking vessel gave some excitement to that lengthy trip. We are now safely down in Lochinver, where Arctica will lie for a spell while we catch up on things at home.

Standing Stones of Stenness

Whalebone Sculpture

We spent a week in Kirkwall marina, using it as a base for exploring the Mainland and southern isles, both by bus and hired car. The wind continued to blow steady and cold from the NE with occasional showers, making the prospect of sailing to the northern isles unattractive for Innes and Janice – city folk not used to the motion of a yacht. Around the town, visiting the cathedral, museum, library, bookshops and supermarkets kept us all occupied. We also had a lengthy fruitless search for a new deck plug for the masthead lights which, despite pre-launch checking, were refusing to work. A temporary repair has now been effected. On Sunday night we had dinner and a very enjoyable evening at the home of friends Ann and Ken, who now live in Kirkwall. It was good to get on the move again as we left the marina early this morning and set course for North Ronaldsay – our first visit to the island, the most northerly in Orkney. There is good anchorage on sand off the pier, but the bay is subject to a constant swell, which is a bit tiresome.

Mute Swan’sNest

Login’s Well, Stromness

Stromness Harbour

We crossed to the east side of Scapa Flow and briefly looked in to St Margaret’s Hope, the Orkney terminal of the John o’ Groats high speed ferry. Although the village is attractive, the anchorage is less so, being very shallow and requiring lying a fair way off it. Burray has a well sheltered bay close to one of the Churchill Barriers. There is a good walk round to Hunda Sound and back by the Ayre, where swans are nesting. St Mary’s Bay gave another nice anchorage once we got the anchor to set in the gravelly bottom. We spent two nights in the welcoming Stromness marina. The town was very busy with the Folk Festival, with virtually all events sold out, but there was a good afternoon session outside the Ferry Inn. The excellent little museum has lots of interest regarding the whaling trade, the Hudson’s Bay Co and John Rae, the under-recognised Arctic explorer, discoverer of the final link in the North West passage and the fate of the lost Franklin Expedition. We are now in Kirkwall, looking forward to the arrival of Innes and Janice for a short holiday with us.

Longhope Lifeboat Museum

Robin of Longhope

It was a relief to get away from the din in Scrabster harbour. Yachts are apparently tolerated rather than welcomed – in a virtually empty fish dock we and another yacht were instructed to raft up together immediately astern of a rather dilapidated fishing boat, whose engine hammered away constantly during our stay. There are also extensive development works underway, including dredging at the harbour entrance with a huge grab crane dumping spoil into hopper barges round the clock. After clearing Dunnet Head we could see a fog bank in the east of the Pentland Firth, but this dispersed over Scapa Flow before our arrival at Longhope, where we tied up in the corner of the small harbour. The lush greens of Orkney glowed in the hot sunshine, which prompted the first venture into shorts this trip. Longhope is on South Walls, which was an island until joined to Hoy by a causeway separating Aith Hope and Long Hope. This afternoon we walked the seven miles to Lyness, an abandoned wartime naval base, and took the the ‘last’ ferry back. This involved return trips to Houton on the Mainland (of Orkney) and Flotta (with massive oil terminal) before the ferry returned to its overnight berth at Longhope. We certainly got our money’s worth!

Old Man of Stoer

Foinaven from Kinlochbervie

Cape Wrath

After the break, we returned to Lochinver by a long but enjoyable bus journey via Inverness and Ullapool. The sun shone, the hills stood out sharp against a blue sky and the scenery was magnificent. An early start saw us up past Stoer Head and Handa and into Kinlochbervie by early afternoon. Later we had a chance encounter with Elaine and Mark, who had kayaked up from Handa. They are great adventurers, and the Skipper knew Elaine from the Everest trek in Nepal four years ago. We enjoyed their company over a drink and blether in the cockpit in warm evening sunshine. The following day we rounded Cape Wrath, passing Sandwood Bay with its sea stack Am Buachaille, and close under the lighthouse on the Cape. It is one of the main turning points on the West Coast along with the Mull of Kintyre and Ardnamurchan Point. We had intended stopping at Talmine at the mouth of the Kyle of Tongue, but the fine weather induced us to continue to Scrabster, ready for a short crossing to Scapa Flow in Orkney.

Low Water – Strath, Gairloch

Coigach Hills

On a bright morning, with heavy frost covering the deck, we left Loch Shell to cross the Minch to Gairloch – an uneventful trip apart from sighting a minke whale. We tied up at the Flowerdale pontoon and walked along to Strath, visiting the excellent book/coffee shop. A walk up Flowerdale to the waterfall – reduced to a trickle after weeks of dry weather – sharpened the appetite for dinner at The Old Inn. Before leaving Gairloch we discovered that the spare diesel drums had not been filled before leaving Dumbarton, so what was left in the tank would probably be enough to just get us to Lochinver, but without any margin for safety. With the harbour now unmanned we had to make a sortie to the filling station to buy road fuel – and at a price! It was a long, lumpy trip up to Lochinver against a swell kicked up by the persistent northerlies but we got there in late afternoon – the first visitors of 2012 to the pontoons. There will now be a break in blogging while we go home for two weeks to pursue other activities.

The Shiants

Summer Hailstones!

After spending a night at Loch Maaruig, off Loch Seaforth, we went up the latter as far as navigable to climb Guainemol and Muithabhal. Back aboard, we were suddenly closely overflown by a tight group of vintage aeroplanes, three from WWII and a WW1 biplane. In response to our waves we got a waggle of wings and a burst of coloured smoke. That night was spent behind Eilean Hingerstay in Loch Claidh. Today, in beautiful weather, we went further north, passing the Shiants on the way to Loch Shell, where we met an extended wintery shower. Back in sunshine, we dropped the hook in Tob Eisken – a nice spot with with well-maintained lodge, grounds, estate houses and cottages. Short wintery showers persisted, but did not prevent the ascent of Feirihisval. During dinner a sudden blatter of large hailstones allowed a wintery photo to contrast with the morning’s summery one. We will not go up to Stornoway on this occasion, as the inner harbour is closed for dredging, and will probably cross the Minch to Wester Ross from here.

Primroses

In continuing excellent weather we returned through the Sound of Harris to the east coast by way of the Stanton Channel off Leverburgh – much more straightforward than the Cope Passage. Off Loch Finsbay we saw a lifeboat inshore of us, and later learned it was taking up station at Leverburgh that day, welcomed by much local celebration. We anchored in sheltered Scalpay north harbour in mid-afternoon and basked in the cockpit as the temperature rose to reach 86F at 7pm! We then had a surprise visitor – friend Angus from home (of musical and sailing connections) who was staying with relatives in the village, and took us to visit them. Another surprise awaited us next morning in Tarbert as we transferred on to the bus for Stornoway. We bumped into lifelong hillwalking friend Andrew, who was returning to Inverness from a visit to Harris and a trip out to St Kilda. In the evening we had Chrissie (nursing friend of the Mate) and Bob aboard for a drink. They divide their time between houses in Glasgow and Scalpay.

Loch Tamanavay

Tahaval from the bealach

We passed westwards through the twisting Cope Passage of the Sound of Harris, finding all the buoyage missing from half way through – not sure whether the change is temporary or if an alternative route has been buoyed instead. We were well prepared, with the full route already set up on the chart plotter. After rounding Toe Head we passed Taransay then through Caolas Scarp – only 5ft clearance at HW Neaps. We anchored at the head of Loch Tamanavay (english corruption of gaelic corruption of original norse) where the Skipper nipped up Griomaval 1631ft before dinner. There followed a big day, climbing Cracaval, Mealisval and Tahaval under a hot sun, but rewarded by great views all round. Bare rock abounds with intervening springy turf and moss, tussocky lower down but thankfully not much heather.

Castlebay

Stulaval from Arnaval

Gale force winds kept us in Castlebay for two days before we could continue north to Lochboisdale, South Uist. Our departure was preceded by one of the “wintery showers” of the forecast – a squall bringing sleet, hail and some swirling snowflakes. Despite the cold breeze and a head sea the trip was pleasant – returning sunshine makes such a difference to everything. We bussed to the Co-op at Daliburgh and walked the few miles back. The next day was very fine – sunshine and blue skies, although the light breeze was still rather chilly. We caught the mid-morning bus for Lochmaddy, North Uist – the Mate continuing there while the Skipper alighted at Mingarry, from where a rough track leads on to the peaty moors. The ascent of Arnaval and Stulaval and return across the moors to Lochboisdale made a good 5 hour outing. We are now at Lochmaddy, North Uist basking in warm sunshine, and planning to visit the west coast of Lewis while good weather holds.

Barra Airport

Loch Skipport, South Uist

Approaching Barra Airstrip

For more than forty years we have hoped to experience one day a flight to Barra, landing on the extensive sands of the Traigh Mor at the airstrip. If the plane has spare seats a sightseeing return to Benbecula is possible, and today our presence, seat availability and ideal conditions combined to make the trip a reality. The flight is short, about 20 minutes, but gives stunning views of the coast, beaches, lochs and hills of Eriskay, South Uist and Benbecula. Many anchorages and hills previously visited gave fascinating views from an unusual perspective. On the return flight we had the 19 seater plane to ourselves! Our timing was perfect, as today the northerly wind is getting up to gale force and we are reluctant to go ashore in case of difficulty returning aboard. We are happy to take it easy and catch up on some reading.

Castlebay Pier

Kisimul Castle, Barra

We carried on down the Sound of Mull passing multi-coloured Tobermory then turning SW at Ardmore Point for the crossing of the Sound of Tiree to Coll. At Arinagour we anchored off the stone beacon before the old pier as depth allowed – the only boat in the anchorage. There were a few spots of rain at intervals throughout the afternoon – but not enough to hamper the making of a new dinghy seat to replace the old one which collapsed at Oban, and repairing the boathook which got broken at Sanda. There’s aye something…….!! Today we went through Gunna Sound between Coll and Tiree and out into the Sea of the Hebrides. At last we had a sailing breeze which gave us a sparkling sail across to Castlebay, Barra. We have a lovely position in the bay with the village, pier, castle and Vatersay affording good views all round.

Looking North from Cruach Scarba

Sunset, Puilladobhrain

The next ploy was to climb Cruach Scarba, separated from Jura by the Corryvreckan Whirlpool, which can be a dangerous place in the wrong wind/sea conditions. We anchored out of the tide race in a little bay at the SE end of Scarba, from where the ascent was easy, if rather undulating. The summit views were magnificent, especially north over the Black Isles, Luing, Seil and Kerrera. We carried on north through the Sound of Luing to spend the night at Puilladobhrain (otter’s pool – but no otter!), where we viewed a dramatic sunset. The next port of call was Oban for shopping, fuel and gas before making into the Sound of Mull for Loch Aline and a berth at the new pontoons. It’s a nice little marina which next season will have shore facilities. On a quiet evening, it is hard to imagine the hurricane conditions we survived here last year!

Old Pier, Loch na Cille

Kinuachdrach Harbour

In continuing fine weather we headed north from Port Ellen, past the Ardmore Islands and the Sound of Islay, where a warship crossed ahead of us. There is a major multinational joint services exercise in the area for two weeks, training for a combined response to a potential terrorist threat. We anchored at Lagg Bay for a visit to Cnoc an Ime, a fine little hill just south of the half-mile wide narrow neck of the island. The night was spent at Loch na Cille on the mainland shore of the Sound of Jura. Another fine morning saw us head for Kinuachdrach Harbour at the NE of Jura, from where Cruach na Seilcheig was climbed, giving good views of the Corryvreckan with its Great Race and the “cool high bens” of Mull. The two hills have similarities in being almost identical in height and having their trig point on the wrong top – both out by half a mile. Having lost the flood tide, we crossed through the Dorus Mor to anchor off Goat Island in Loch Craignish. All is peaceful apart from the honking of four pairs of Canada Geese.

Sanda

At Port Ellen

It was a calm, bright morning as we left Sanda with the start of the west and north going tidal stream, which we carried all the way up to Port Ellen, reaching there at lunchtime. As forecast, the SE wind gradually got up during the afternoon and was soon pressing Arctica hard against the pontoon.We fixed extra warps to hold her off and lay more comfortably thereafter. It was bitterly cold in the wind, but we enjoyed the protection of the cockpit cover, from which we could survey the scene in comfort. The strong wind moderated overnight but still had a bite to it in the morning, and the radio gave news of snow at Drumochter. We took the post bus to Bowmore where we browsed the shops and had a pleasant stroll round in the fine conditions. There is a small marina but it looks too shallow for yachts, and its scanty breakwater largely cosmetic.

Approaching Cloch Light

Arran Hills

Arctica’s Summer Cruise 2012 got underway as we left Dumbarton on a sparkling bright morning under a clear blue sky. It was cold on the water, with late patches of snow on the hills and good cover on Ben Lomond. With very calm conditions we settled down to motor south, enjoying the fabulous views of sea and hills, especially the Arran hills. The inshore waters forecast suggested a good W/SW wind tomorrow, ideal for rounding the Mull of Kintyre and making north for Port Ellen, Islay. So we made the 58nm trip down to Sanda, the nearest anchorage to the Mull, anchoring off the stone jetty at 1900. Tired after a long day, we did not venture ashore after our meal, although lights appeared in the pub as darkness fell.