The first stop on our return leg to the Clyde was Carsaig, a few miles
south of Crinan – an attractive village set round the bay, offering a
nice half-mile walk across the peninsula to the more sheltered but less
accessible Tayvallich. On a dreich, windless morning we started down the
Sound of Jura but after a couple of hours the weather improved and we
reached Gigha in bright sunshine, seeing a dolphin with calf in
Ardminish Bay. Ashore, we enjoyed playing in an impromptu music session,
walked to Achamore Gardens, and at night stargazed into the very clear
sky. Mike left us the next morning, taking the ferry to Tayinloan, and
we set off to round the Mull of Kintyre. Off the lighthouse, we met with
/Seol na Mara /and passed across her Skipper’s bunnet, which Peter had
sorely missed. There followed four hours of frustrating motor-sailing
without making any appreciable headway against the fierce tide – but as
it eased we were able to continue to Campbeltown. After a showery day at
Brodick, we made up to Rhu, where the Mate gutted the bucketful of
mackerel we caught off Inverkip. Our final day started with a visit to
Iain and Barbara in Helensburgh, then we motored up-river to Dumbarton
where we were immediately de-masted and lifted out for the winter. Our
summer cruising had occupied 121 days, covered 1,760 nautical miles, and
visited 70 anchorages.
Back to the Clyde
Rathlin to Oban
Our second attempt at crossing to Islay was different – instead of too
much wind we had too little and had to motorsail. Unfortunately, steady
rain started at Port Ellen so none of us ventured ashore. Ann left on
the ferry to Kennacraig the next morning and the three of us left
shortly thereafter, ghosting through the Ardmore Islands inside passage
and catching a good haul of mackerel before picking up a fair wind for
Craighouse, Jura. From there we had a cracking sail up the Sound of Jura
to Ardfern, where we anchored and went ashore for a drink in the Galley
of Lorne inn. After a peaceful night we got away to catch the flood tide
through the Dorus Mor and Sound of Luing, turning west for a first visit
to the Black Islands, where we lunched in the good anchorage. A planned
landing on the Garvellachs was abandoned when we found the Garbh Eileach
anchorage to be tiny with no swinging room, so we made on to Oban, where
we moored as usual on a vacant mooring just off the esplanade. A trip
ashore saw us restocked for the final week of cruising, with lift-out
booked at Dumbarton for Thursday 4 September.
Portrush and Ballycastle
Sailing past the Giant’s Causeway (unimpressive from seaward – dwarfed
by columnar cliffs along the north Antrim coast) we reached Portrush,
and dined at the much-recommended Harbour Bistro – liked the food but
not the two hour wait for it. Next day we took the train to Londonderry
and walked round the old city walls, visited the siege museum and
browsed the second-hand bookshops and charity shops. A poor weather
forecast ruled out rounding Malin Head so we stayed another day in
Portrush. Mike and the Skipper accepted an invitation to crew on a
racing yacht, which was fun but wet in a Force 7 wind. Continuing
westerlies made us abandon plans to go out west to Tory Island, so we
headed back east to Ballycastle, an attractive resort with a smallish
marina. After strong overnight winds the forecast of SW 5-7 was ideal
for sailing north to Islay, and we set off with barely 10kts of wind
registering. However it blew up suddenly, and in no time we had a W 7
gusting 8 with big seas from wind over strong tide, and a small tear
appeared in the reefed headsail. We turned and ran downwind into
Rathlin, where we await better conditions before continuing north.
Rathlin Island
With Mike and Ann aboard, our destination on a lunchtime departure from
Campbeltown was Rathlin, making use of the ebb tide through the North
Channel. A northerly 5 gusting 6 gave us a stirring sail down to Sanda
Sound, but we then decided to spare Ann (not a happy sailor) the longer
haul and put in for the night at Sanda south anchorage, tucked under
‘The Ship’ lighthouse,well sheltered from the sea running outside. The
demands of tide saw us on our way again in darkness at 0415 into a
westerly breeze, with rough seas at first until clear of the Mull of
Kintyre. Thereafter the crossing was easy, but requiring a huge course
offset to allow for the strong cross-tide. At Rue Point, the S end of
Rathlin, and slightly behind schedule, we ran into a 5kt tide race and
spent most of an hour clawing our way through to slack water and into
the shelter of the breakwaters to tie up alongside the pontoon at 0915.
After a hearty breakfast and catching up a couple of hours sleep we went
ashore for walks. Rathlin is an attractive island, popular with day
trippers who are soon left behind as you walk quiet roads bordering
fields of black cattle fattening on the lush grass. There is a bird
reserve, but a trip there will have to await our next visit.
Bangor and Glenarm
We spent a day in Bangor, taking it easy and visiting the many charity
shops and the excellent second-hand bookshop. A pint of Guinness in The
Black Boat Bar went down well. At night, the Skipper returned for the
live music but was disappointed to find it was not traditional Irish.
However, in the back room at Fealty’s Bar there was a good going
session with flute, banjo, 3 fiddles, mandolin and guitar. They were
happy for a moothie to join them and the music went on until 2am. A wet
and windy forecast induced us to stay for a second day, but the actual
weather was not so bad although heavy rain started in late afternoon and
continued through the night, causing widespread flooding throughout
Northern Ireland. Today we sailed to Glenarm with its charming little
marina and helpful harbourmaster. We walked the three miles to Carnlough
and confirmed that its small harbour (photo) has no room for a visiting
yacht. Tomorrow we head for Campbeltown to be joined by Mike and Ann for
a spell.
Girvan and Portpatrick
Heading SE to Girvan with a reef in the sails, we had a S5/6 to give us
a stirring sail with Ailsa Craig acting as route marker. With a little
lee provided by the shore, the seas off the harbour entrance were
somewhat reduced and we were sheltered by the breakwater before crossing
the sand bar, with 3ft of water to spare, into the harbour. The town,
like many a fishing/seaside resort, has a run down air – boarded up
shops, downmarket offerings and little sign of reinvestment – but is in
a nice setting with low green hills behind. We moved south to
Portpatrick (photo) on a windless day, and into the small harbour with
its tight and twisting entrance without difficulty. On a hot summer’s
day the place was alive with visitors – kids on the beach and fishing
from rocks, outdoor tables for food and drink, an amusement arcade and
folk strolling everywhere. The next leg took us SW across the North
Channel to Bangor, Co Down with Ireland’s self proclaimed best marina,
where we are spending two nights. Bangor is a prosperous town with well
developed tourism and a good range of facilities.
Music… at last!
It was a lively evening in Port Ellen as we played in the Ardview Inn -
including a bit of highland dancing in the tiny lounge bar. While Seol na
Mara sailed for Rathlin, we spent the next day on Islay, bussing to
Portnahaven, a very pretty village centred round a shallow harbour. The two
boats met up again at Sanda (off the Mull of Kintyre) on Friday evening for
the Bowling Harbour Ceilidh Band weekend at the Byron Darnton inn, and were
joined by Mike who had spent most of the day bussing over from Fife. Sanda
is a lovely little island, more Hebridean than Clyde, with an excellent pub
serving good food, letting cottages, bunkhouse and camping space. It is
popular with the local worthies from Southend, who come and go in all states
of inebriation in a variety of ribs and speedboats. We had a weekend of
music, song and drink, punctuated by an overnight SE gale, which saw a
number of yachts leaving in the early morning – but the holding is excellent
and we rode it out comfortably. On Sunday afternoon, after a final outdoor
session in the sunshine, we sailed off to Campbeltown and later saw Mike off
on the bus for home.
Jura and Islay
The regatta comprised four sailing dinghies and six rowing boats -
hardly the stuff of Cowes Week – but great fun was had by all. In the
evening, entertainment was provided by “The Wherries”, a three man
outfit who were big on audience participation. The ensuing dance with
“Skerryvore” started at 0145 (!!), and their six-man full-on
amplification in the small hall was so overpowering that we left after a
couple of sets. The next day we caught the tide through the Sound of
Islay and went into Loch Tarbert, Jura and spent the rest of the day
aboard in intermittent rain. The morning proved brighter, encouraging
the Skipper to don his boots for the three-Marilyn round of Scrinadle,
Corra Bheinn and Beinn Bhreac. At 10pm we spotted Seol na Mara going in
to anchor at the narrows, spoke on the VHF, and joined her in the
morning for a wee refreshment. We then sailed in company down through
the Sound of Islay to the Ardmore Islands, a favourite anchorage of both
skippers, where we enjoyed a joint dinner followed by a ceilidh. Today
we left together in thick drizzle for Port Ellen, where we are berthed
in the neat marina, restocking with food and drink.
Crinan to Jura
After a short visit home, we travelled back to Crinan by bus and taxi
to resume our summer cruise. The Canal has been closed for two weeks
pending a temporary repair to the Crinan sea lock where the sill has
collapsed, preventing one of the gates from seating properly. As a
result, many holiday sailors are having to round the Mull of Kintyre for
the first time. Today we left Goat Island in Loch Craignish and headed
down the Sound of Jura. Initially misty and atmospheric, it became foggy
then rained steadily so we only persevered as far as Craighouse, Jura
where we picked up a visitors mooring. Later on the weather improved,
the Paps of Jura lost their cloud cover and patches of blue sky
appeared. In the evening we were treated to a display of flying by a
light aircraft which came over the bay, did a couple of circuits and
tight turns at mast height, and buzzed a large motor boat before
disappearing. Among the boats here for the night are a another Westerly
Corsair and a Fastnet 34 “Skibbereen”. We learned there is a small boat
regatta here tomorrow (the new dinghy pontoon was officially opened
today) so we may decide to stay, watch the fun and go to the ceilidh in
the village hall.
Its a Drag!…
……but not if our anchor had been this size! With the intention of
starting an anticlockwise sail round Mull we anchored in Loch Aline, but
sat out the next day in really dreich conditions. That night the wind
shifted right round and blew up strongly, and at 0245 we were wakened by
a horn sounding and searchlight flashing – a nearby yacht had seen that
we had started to drag into the shallows. In darkness, we got the anchor
up and motored out to re-anchor in good holding. The Mate sat up on
anchor watch until daylight, while the Skipper got his head down again.
The morning saw a steady force 6 and breaking waves charging up the
Sound of Mull, so plans were quickly changed and we ran with the weather
back up to Duart Point and down into Loch Spelve. Today we crossed back
from Mull, down through Cuan Sound to Loch Shuna, and into Craobh Haven
where laundrette, showers, shop, chandlery, fuel and water are all to
hand. Everything is fine except the weather, which is showery – where
have the sunny days of May and June gone?
Around Oban and Mull
We met more and more yachts as we passed through the Sound of Mull
again, with the holiday season now in full swing. Picking up a mooring
at Craignure, the ferry port for Mull, we went ashore in hot sunshine
for a walk to Torosay Castle, with its mile of miniature steam railway
(photo). During the evening the northerly breeze, to which we were
exposed, freshened making the anchorage uncomfortable, so we made a late
move across to Bernera, off the west coast of Lismore, which was
sheltered. With Dunstaffnage Marina full for the weekend with Classic
Malt Cruisers we had to use Oban to pick up Pat and Stan for the
weekend, but managed to secure a mooring close inshore off the esplanade
- handy for the short transfer from the slipway. With a Force 6 on the
nose on Saturday we abandoned the planned visit to Tobermory (the first
for Pat and Stan) after going as far as Craignure, then turned about for
a comfortable sail down to Loch Spelve, where we spent the rest of the
day. On Sunday we sailed over to Puilladobhrain for a short stay, then
up through the Sound of Kerrera back to Oban for a late lunch and
farewell to Pat and Stan. Then off again to Loch Aline, where we arrived
as a dreich drizzle set in for the rest of the evening.
Good Sailing
On leaving the Crowlin anchorage we set full sail in a light breeze, but
it suddenly blew up to a near gale, forcing us to double reef for an
exhilarating sail down to the Skye Bridge. From there it was
motorsailing against a light southerly through Kylerhea and down to Loch
Nevis, where we anchored at Glas Choille. The same weather pattern was
repeated next day, giving us a superb broad reach right across to Loch
Scresort, Rum where we had the bay to ourselves. We visited Stroma and
David at their flat in Kinloch Castle with irrepressible two year old
son, new baby daughter and visiting grannie, Irene. The castle, now run
by Scottish Natural Heritage as a hostel, bistro and bar, is almost
entirely in its century old original condition with resplendent
Victorian contents – including fully working automatic ‘orchestrium’,
built-in with beautiful brass, chrome, carpentry and mechanical
linkages. It was commissioned by Queen Victoria but never installed
after her death, allowing Lord Bullough to acquire it.
Lewis to Skye
After saying farewell to Stornoway, we sat out 36 hours of strong
southerlies at Lemrevay, Loch Shell and had to motor the anchor out as
it was so well dug in. After a night at Scalpay North Harbour we crossed
the Minch in a flat calm to Acarseid Mor on Rona, a popular anchorage
which we shared with three other yachts – that is crowded by our
standards! Then to Portree where we waited at the pier for two hours for
diesel as, due to staff shortage, one harbourmaster is covering both Uig
and Portree. The next day the Mate bussed round the Totternish peninsula
while the Skipper climbed a couple of the Red Cuillins. We moved on in
the evening to the Crowlin Islands where we were fortunate to meet
Seanachan and Ilona on Sonas, and had a drink and a blether with them.
It was a beautiful evening and the photo was taken after 11pm.
Sailing Again
Our travels in Arctica have resumed after some ten days at home. With
hindsight, we timed the trip perfectly – at the end of the long spell of
very fine weather. Highlight of the break was an outing in Seol na Mara
with Peter, Iain and Barbara to view the classic yachts mustered on the
Clyde for the Fife Regatta (yacht designer, not county). We were at the
start as these beautiful craft with enormous sail plans set off to race
from Rhu to Rothesay – a truly spectacular sight. Then Barbara cooked up
not only fresh scones – her specialty – but also strawberry jam to go
with them! It was a wonderful day out in great company. The following
day Iain and the Skipper bussed to Glencoe and climbed a couple of
Grahams (2000ft hills) getting soaked to the skin in the process.
Luckily catching a bus immediately on descent to Ballachulish, we
changed into dry clothes at the back of the bus, which was fortunately
far from busy.
On our return to Stornoway (where the Lewis Chessman lives) we were
amazed to see a Great Northern Diver swimming in the Harbour, not 20
metres from the pontoon.
Lewis
The wild weather over, we ventured out again and made for Lemervay, at
the mouth of Loch Shell, inside Eilean Iubhard where a large Norwegian
‘mother ship’ was hoovering up salmon from the fish farm. (Photo -
Shiants and Skye from Orasay, Loch Shell). Cromore, at the entrance of
Loch Erisort was our next port of call – a sheltered spot overlooked by
a few cottages and croft houses.From there it was a short hop to
Stornoway and the luxury of a pontoon berth in the inner harbour. The
excellent bus services were used for trips north to Tolsta to climb
Muirneag 248m, and west to Shawbost for Beinn Bhragair 261m. We have
decided to return home for ten days, leaving Arctica in Stornoway; our
sailing adventures will resume thereafter.
A Bit Wild
Just a nice photo – no connection with the gale! Overnight, the wind got
up as forecast and we let out extra anchor chain as a precaution. By
morning a gale was being funnelled through the gap in the hills east
of Clisham and came roaring over Loch Maaruig, driving white horses
through the anchorage. It set up quite a racket – waves breaking, water
slapping the hull, a howl from the rigging and loud snubbing of the
anchor chain as Arctica sheered about, heeling dramatically in the
strongest gusts. Despite all this, we recorded nothing more than a Force
8 gale. The mind boggles at the thought of being out at sea in a Force
10 – hats off to all deep sea fishermen! The weather did not seem to
affect the otter out fishing for his dinner quite close to the boat. Today is another of gusting wind, but there are signs of the weather moderating. We will be content to spend another day here catching up on our reading.
Back to Harris
According to the local press, this continues to be the driest spell in
the Outer Hebrides for 40 years – we can scarcely believe our good
fortune in being here at the right time. Since Miavaig we have visited
Loch Carloway with its broch, Kirkibost in East Loch Roag, Loch
Tamanavay where we saw another golden eagle, and then returned through
the Sound of Harris to Loch Finsbay. Today we sailed up the east coast
of Harris, spotting two minke whales, and in to Loch Maaruig, an
offshoot of Loch Seaforth. On a bright and breezy afternoon the Skipper
climbed Todum 528m, a shapely hill overlooking the anchorage, and met
people for the first time in the last 21 hills. With the possibility of
winds gusting up to Force 8 in the next 24 hours we will review our
options in the morning; fortunately the east coast of Lewis offers a
good choice of sheltered anchorages.
Miavaig, Lewis
With no sign of impending precipitation and the fine weather continuing,
we went in to Miavaig, in the SW corner of West Loch Roag, which looks
full of interest on both the Admiralty Chart and the OS Map. We were
glad of our chart plotter, which enabled us to easily avoid the many
skerries, reefs and shallow patches. We were struck by the beauty of the
place, and the temporary availability of a pontoon berth induced us to
stay for three nights. We were fortunate to befriend Alastair and Margo
who live locally, and will soon be setting sail for Greenland in their
lovely wooden yacht ‘Iona of Rhu’. A few more Marilyns have been
climbed, and the Mate enjoyed a short visit to Stornoway on the Post
Bus. With no rain for seven weeks now, the moors are exceptionally dry,
but would normally be exhausting bogland. As it is, the going is rough,
compensating for the relatively low height of the hills.
More Islands
We were fortunate in choosing the best day of the week for our visit to
Taransay, now uninhabited with no obvious traces of ‘Castaway’ from a few
years ago. The scenery, weather and turquoise water gave nothing to the
Caribbean save the water temperature – not enticing for swimming!The island
is very attractive with sandy beaches and dunes, rocky foreshore, hill
lochans (one with remains of a dun), and fine views of the Harris hills from
its summit, Ben Raah 297m. Next morning we set off early for the beautiful
anchorage at the north end of Scarp (photo), the Mate sunbathing while the
Skipper climbed Sron Romul 308m. Later we moved on to Camas Uig, Lewis, a
few miles short of Loch Roag, where we dropped the hook in a nice pool with
a sandy beach, sheltered from seaward by islets.The day ended with another
spectacular, fiery sunset but we can expect some showers within the next 24
hours.
West Loch Tarbert
After a spectacular sunset, the day started bright and the wind had
abated to a Force 5, but the forecast was for rain to come. We motored
through the Sound of Harris, finding a number of the buoys marked on a
newly purchased chart were missing, but following the Cope Passage was
straightforward. Clear of all dangers, we set reefed sails and had a
grand sail across to Toe Head at the SW end of Harris, but faced a
headwind round in the Sound of Taransay, which saw us motorsailing
thereafter. The predicted rain arrived and the hills took on a gloomy
aspect. We anchored for the night in a sheltered spot off the old
whaling station in Loch Bun Abhainn-eader, 3 miles west of West Loch
Tarbert, and moved up there the next morning.
2(F+J)
No, we are not trying to resurrect our schooldays algebra – this refers to
the Skipper and Mate having the company of both Fan & James and Fin & J when
the latter pair arrived in East Loch Tarbert for a holiday at Seilebost, on
Harris. They dined on Arctica, and all four went on photo safari during the
day, making good use of the availability of a hired car. We could not resist
showing our own attempt at an artistic photo of rocks and lichen.After
waving farewell to Fan & James on the ferry to Uig, and thence via Glasgow
to South Britain, we decided to visit the west side of the Outer Hebrides,
and sailed the first leg down to Hermetray, just off North Uist at the end
of the Sound of Harris. Vaccasay Basin, where we anchored, now has an
extensive fish farm, but there is room to anchor and avoid Dirt Rock. We let
out plenty of chain and were untroubled by the strong winds which continued
overnight.
Sea Lochs of North Harris
The sun was obscured by a layer of high cloud which cooled the day
considerably and drained the colour from the landscape. This provided a
good opportunity to explore Loch Seaforth, a fjord-like loch extending
inland for some 15 miles. We went half way up, passing the extensive
fish farm inside the entrance and the inlet of Loch Maaruig, and
anchored off Ath Linne (photo) just past Seaforth Island, which boasts
its own ‘Marilyn’. The Crew opted for an afternoon of relaxation aboard,
while the Skipper took to the handy hill track (signposted ‘Walkers
Welcome’) and climbed Cearnabhal 378m and Liuthaid 492m, a nice pair of
hills. We moved back out and round the point into Loch Claidh, where we
spent the night in the lovely anchorage tucked in behind Eilean
Hingerstay, where we saw black throated divers, otters, seals and a stag
on the skyline above at sunset.
North Uist
We left Loch Skiport with the intention of staying a night at Kallin,
Grimsay but found pier extension works in progress and the visitor’s
mooring temporarily removed. Resuming passage northwards, we carried on
to Lochmaddy – and still the sun shone, showing everything at its best.
The photographers revelled in the quality of light and range of subjects
to catch their eye, while the skipper bagged a few more hills. Good use
was made by all of the excellent facilities at the new Tigh Dearg Hotel,
with a first class fitness suite, sauna and showers. Today we had an NE
wind on the nose and motorsailed up to North Harbour, Scalpay where the
sun came out again after an overcast morning.
Barra to South Uist
A smooth crossing to the Outer Isles saw Arctica back in Castlebay,
Barra for the third time in three weeks, all in good weather. Fine views
of islands were had from Heishval Mor 190m, the highest point of
Vatersay, from Muldoanich (photo) down to Mingulay, while Fan and James
visited Eoligarry at the north end. Acarseid Mor, Eriskay, a short sail
north, was the next harbour. A new pontoon for lobster boats is in place
beside the pier and ongoing earthworks give sign of further development
to come. Beinn Scrien 185m was added to the list of island summits while
the photographers immersed themselves in their art. A moderate sea with
a light following breeze made for rather rolling progress to Loch
Skiport, S Uist, where we anchored in the sheltered Poll na Cairidh and
devoted the remainder of the day to the three R’s (reading, relaxing,
reposing).
Knoydart
With the Skipper on his own, the Marilyn theme and the fine weather
continued with short trips to Inverie (photo) and Loch Hourn to climb Druim
na Cluain-Airighe c500m and Beinn Mhialairigh 548m respectively. Back at
Arisaig, on the return aboard of the Mate, a shopping expedition to Fort
William saw stores replenished ready for the arrival of Fan and James for
the next sortie. Before their arrival we enjoyed a bright, still evening -
with Arisaig and views west to Eigg and Rum at their best. We left for
Canna, planning to cross over the Sea of the Hebrides the next day to Barra,
then gradually working our way north up the Outer Hebrides.
Hills and Harbours
On another fine day, but without a sailing wind, we crossed back east to
the Inner Hebrides passing north of Canna and on to Kilmory Bay on the N
coast of Rum, where we anchored. The bay is wide and sandy with rocky
enclosing arms, and dozens of red deer were at rest on the sand or
standing in the water’s edge. We climbed Mullach Mor 304m, a modest hill
with a big hill feature – a succession of false summits – but holding
many attractive small lochans in its rough ground. The night was spent
at the head of Loch Scavaig, a superb anchorage close to Loch Coruisk
and the high Cuillins (photo), where we had the pleasure of meeting
Norman and Gillian from ‘Curlew’ and spending a few hours chatting to
them. In the morning we climbed Sgurr na Stri 497m and on return Andrew
took an unscheduled dip as he slipped on the rocks when boarding the
dinghy. Later, we headed for Mallaig Harbour to spend the last night of
a very successful ‘boys’ week’.
Marilyns
When Iain and Andrew arrived we immediately left Arisaig for Rum,
dropping anchor in Loch Scresort off the old stone pier in company with
four other boats. After dinner, we walked west some way along the track
and on return found out that once again we had missed David and Stroma,
who were over at Inverie for the night. An 0630 start next morning saw
us heading for Barra, passing south of Canna and out past Hyskeir. We
raised the cruising chute and had a grand sail over to Castlebay,
changing down to reefed genoa as the wind got up to Force 5. As it was
still early afternoon we made a leisurely ascent of Ben Tangaval, a
‘Marilyn’ (hill over 150m with a re-ascent of at least 150m on all
sides, of which there are some 1500 throughout the UK) which Andrew was
keen to climb. Next morning we anchored off Muldoanich 151m (another M,
and the lowest one to qualify), which the crew climbed while the skipper
kept watch aboard as the anchor was set on rock. After the short hop
across to Sandray, we all climbed to its summit, Cairn Galtar 205m (yes,
another M) from the lovely sandy beach at Meanish Bay. Our chosen
anchorage tonight is the ‘Blue Lagoon’ between two outlying islands, a
seldom visited spot requiring careful pilotage through the rock-strewn
entry channel, where we are watched over by nesting golden eagles.
Back to Arisaig
On Coll we met the crews of two high speed launches which were playing
the part of ‘terrorists’ for the multinational naval exercise taking
place off the west coast of Scotland. Shortly after they set off for the
day’s manoeuvres we too left, sailing N up the deserted north-east coast
of Coll to Sorisdale Bay, and on past the Cairns of Coll to Muck.
Arriving at mid-tide, many of the drying reefs were covered, so we were
careful to identify the leading line for a safe approach to Gallanach
Bay and anchored well inshore. It was a very peaceful and attractive
spot, with panoramic views of hills and mountains on Skye, Rum, Eigg and
the mainland. We left in the morning with the forecast of a rising gale,
motored across to Galmisdale on Eigg to recharge the batteries, then
sailed double-reefed over to Arisaig to complete the week’s circuit with
Jim and Linda.
Call at Coll
Sailing SE from Barra across the Sea of the Hebrides, we passed through
Gunna Sound which separates Coll and Tiree, and N into the anchorage at
Arinagour, Coll’s only village – complete with gun to repel unwanted
visitors! The northern two-thirds and extreme SW tip of the island are
Lewisian gneiss, its low hummocks infilled with peat bogs and lochans.
The remaining third consists of very ancient metamorphosed sandstones
containing quartz and marble. The west coast has a covering of
wind-blown shell sand, forming dunes over 100ft high and machair
suitable for grazing. The highest point is Ben Hogh at 341ft. On our
walk across the island and round Cliad Bay we were delighted to have a
chance encounter with Mhairi and John and young family, who were
holidaying on the island.
Crossing the Minch
Now there’s a good name for a tune! We crossed from Canna to Barra in
fine weather, losing sunshine only for a spell, which reminded us how
chilly it can be on the water in a northerly breeze so early in the
season. Incidents during the trip – being buzzed by three jet fighters
engaged in dogfighting practice, and sighting a couple of dolphins.
Landfall was made at Muldoanich, and the channel markers followed in to
Castlebay (photo) with its handy visitors’ moorings. Today we took the
bus west-about up to the airfield and watched the arrival and departure
of the Glasgow/Barra/Benbecula flight, which lands on the beach at low
tide, before walking to Eoligarry and along Traigh Scurrival, a mile and
a half long beach of white sand with wonderful views out to offlying
islands, Eriskay and South Uist. We completed the round-island trip by
bussing east-about back to Castlebay.
Arisaig and Canna
We had good sailing from Mull round Ardnamurchan Point to Arisaig,
arriving shortly before the wind really got up. The holding is good
and we spent a comfortable at anchor night despite the strong wind and
heavy rain. A phone next morning call to a yacht rigger on the Clyde
provided directions for stripping down the Furlex gear, so while the
mate took the train into Fort William for provisions, the skipper
successfully repaired the headsail furling system. Later in the day we
were joined for the week by Jim and Linda, who brought good weather
with them – the evening turned out very fine. With good weather
continuing we sailed out past Rum and round to Canna, enjoying views
of the mainland hills. As the afternoon warmed up, the cloud level
gradually rose, revealing the peaks of the Skye and Rum Cuillins. We
walked across the new bridge to Sanday to visit the renovated church,
but found it still a building site after five years of (very
intermittent?) work.
Up Aloft
We have been having trouble with the headsail furling gear on Arctica -
it has been excessively stiff to operate. No obvious problem at deck
level could be found, so suspicion turned on the masthead. We have had
to recognise that our days of climbing the mast are over, except when
emergency dictates. News of our difficulties spread and the
Harbourmaster suggested we have a word with the contractor building the
new shoreside facilities following the installation of extended pontoon
berthing. The upshot was a trip aloft in the basket of his extending
crane, as the photo shows. Sadly, no problem was found there either but
a couple of screws were tightened and WD40 applied liberally to the
moving parts before descending to terra firma. Tomorrow will tell
whether or not the problem has been fixed. Tonight we sleep with fingers
crossed!
Otters
Last night was spent in the lovely anchorage at Puilladobhrain
(Otters’ Pool) but no otters were seen. However tonight at Tobermory
we watched from the gangway to the mooring pontoon an otter, not
twenty feet away, diving in repeatedly, bringing its catch to the
rocks and crunching it down noisily. It being dusk, there was not
light enough for a photo so today’s photo is of Duart Castle, which
stands imposingly on a headland at the southeast end of the Sound of
Mull. It has been the ancestral home of the MacLeans since about 1250
although it was lost for 200 years to the Duke of Argyll, who overran
it in 1691. It is open to the public, and an important tourist
attraction on Mull, as is Tobermory itself, with its brightly painted
seafront buildings and boats in the bay.
WHISKY TRAIL
It could be said that Arctica is on the whisky trail. After the first
night of the season at Tighnabruaich, the next port of call was
Campbeltown, home to two distilleries – Glen Scotia and Springbank. It
was once the whisky capital of Scotland with 21 producing distilleries
in 1886! A rare and favourable ENE wind took us round the Mull of
Kintyre and nicely up to Islay, where there are 7 working
distilleries. We are moored for the night in the small anchorage at
Lagavulin, sheltered by islets outside and guarded over by the ruins
of a castle on the point. With the UK Coastguard taking industrial
action there are no usual weather forecasts for the next few days, but
we can get alternatives by VHF from Ireland, on Navtex and on the Met
Office website. The easterly airflow is set to continue, which is
ideal for us as we sail north.
Afloat Again
The sailing season is underway and Arctica will be launched this week,
after a flurry of cleaning, scrubbing, polishing, fixing, antifouling,
loading and rigging. It will be nice to feel movement in her again after
six months propped up ashore in the boatyard at Dumbarton. At last some
warmth is creeping in to the lengthening days and we hope for a good
summer ahead – Force 4 winds and sunshine! We will set off after
receiving the few items on order and due for delivery in the next few
days, and will be reporting our progress as usual. All friends are
welcome to post comments on the blog.