Arctica Cruising Blog

Iceberg

Sea Fog Forming

After our mishap, the summer all too quickly passed with the Mate’s regular hospital and physiotherapy appointments. Her hand was deemed too vulnerable to risk any further damage this season so further sailing was ruled out, and the Skipper climbed a few more hills while Arctica lay on a mooring at Dunstaffnage. We joined friends Mike and Anne aboard Fred Olsen Lines’ MS Boudicca on a cruise from Rosyth to the Faroes, Greenland and Iceland, all places high up in our ‘to do’ list. It was a wonderful trip and completely revised our previous sceptical view of the attractions of such cruises. The weather was amazingly good, the ship recently refurbished and of traditional lines (not a floating block of flats), the food excellent, with a cheery crew and good talks and evening entertainment. The Skipper even got to perform a few tunes on the moothie to an audience of hundreds at the guest talent show! The trip was a fitting consolation for missing out on our planned trip to the outer Hebrides and Northern Isles, with the associated visit of the Tall Ships. Arctica is now laid up ashore for the winter ready for the repair of the cosmetic damage to her hull, and we look forward to a less eventful season of sailing next year.

The Mate has had an operation and the broken finger has had metalwork inserted – not sure if this is permanent or to be removed later. Arctica has been moved to Dunstaffnage Marina, where the Skipper will be replacing guardrail stanchions damaged in her stormy adventure. We will be home-based until after Fin’s wedding but hope to be able to resume sailing in July..

 

 

We had a couple of days notice of the impending storm, but no idea of its savagery. Loch Aline seemed a good, safe option – Tobermory too crowded, and Loch Drumbuy lacking VHF, phone or internet signal. We snugged down on a mooring and waited for the storm to pass. As the wind steadily rose through Force 8 (gale), 9 (strong gale) and 10 (storm) we took photos of the wind speed readout. Just after a gust of 58.1 knots (68 mph) the mooring parted and we leaped into action to prevent being quickly driven ashore. It is difficult to adequately describe the conditions – wind at steady violent storm Force 11 (70 mph+) with higher gusts, crashing waves, sea surface white with foam, little visibility, sheets of spray and lashing rain – the boat driven on to her beam ends with gunwales awash, despite full engine revs scarcely able to make any headway, driven from side to side of the loch in defiance of full steering lock. It took well over an hour to claw upwind the short mile to reach moorings in what would normally be a more sheltered corner of the loch – but not today. A fishing boat pointed out a mooring astern of them, but steering an accurate course to the pick-up buoy was nearly impossible in the conditions. After eight or nine unsuccessful approaches Maggie, on her knees, managed to get it aboard but  it was wrenched from her  hand, which was damaged in the process. On the next pick-up she was unable to secure it to anything with only one hand, but  lay down on it and that was all that kept us from being swept away again. We were only held by the light pick-up line which was chafing and would not hold for long. Unable to reach the mooring rope or haul a six ton boat against wind and sea, we radioed the fishing boat and asked them to buoy a line and float it downwind to us – it might allow us to winch or be winched forward to reach the mooring rope. Unfortunately it was blown out of reach but a brave scallop diver swam down the line and attached it to one thrown from our bow. He scrambled aboard and took control on the foredeck as we were both soaked, frozen and exhausted. Eventually we were secured to the massive mooring hawser of a 70ft fishing boat. After applying an icepack and sling to Maggie’s left hand, which was obviously damaged with a dislocated fracture of at least one finger, the diver called the Coastguard for medical assistance. The hand was hugely swollen, turning blue and in need of urgent treatment. The call was heard by the Lochaline-Fishnish ferry sheltering at the pier, and they launched their rescue RIB to evacuate us. They had great difficulty approaching the plunging, rolling yacht but we eventually jumped in and were landed ashore with the RIB now half full of water, and handed over to the mobile Coastguard, who drove us to the doctor’s surgery in Lochaline. Without electricity due to the storm, the doctor had neither power, light nor heat and did not have a ring cutter – by this time there was a distinct risk of Maggie losing a finger if her wedding ring could not be removed. The Coastguard returned with a huge pair of bolt cutters with which the ring was removed, relieving pressure on the finger and allowing circulation to resume. Normally a helicopter would have been called to take us to hospital, but conditions ruled that out. The ambulance, which had a lengthy journey getting to us as the Corran Ferry was off and the Loch Eil road was blocked, took us to the Belford Hospital in Fort William, via the ferry which had fortunately resumed service. There the A&E team were ready, and quickly X-rayed, splinted and bound the hand, but could do no more as they are not equipped for orthopaedic surgery, which at that stage looked inevitable. After an overnight stay arrangements were made for handing over to the Western Infirmary in Glasgow, and we were able to return home on the evening bus. Following more X-rays and examination by the A&E consultant and an orthopaedic registrar, the hand specialist reserved opinion on treatment and will see Maggie next week when the swelling has gone. In the meantime, we have been back to Loch Aline to sort out the mess inside the boat, remove wet clothes and leave her properly closed down. Fortunately the mooring is not required at present and the owner is happy for us to have the use of it until we arrange to move the boat to a marina and attend to some minor repairs. So………a bit of a blow, both literally and to Maggie and our sailing plans for the summer.

At Ardoran

Port Ramsay, Lismore

Once back aboard, we had to wait a further day for reasonable sailing conditions. From Loch Feochan we sailed with a following wind up Kerrera Sound, through Oban Bay and north to Lismore, where we anchored at Port Ramsay. We had difficulty getting the anchor to set properly, but succeeded at the fourth attempt. Later in the afternoon we were joined by Tekoa (a fellow Westerly) with skipper Jane, crew Iain and French guests Michel and Helene. A welcoming drink on Arctica was followed later by an after dinner ceilidh on Tekoa with some pipe and moothie music, french songs and Iain’s recitation of Tam o’Shanter. Today we motored south to the Sound of Mull into the teeth of a strong wind, but made better progress in the sound to Loch Aline, where we took up a vacant mooring. Since arrival the wind has been gusting violently to Gale Force 8 with accompanying squally showers. Too much weather, and only a month to Midsummer Day!

The Arctica crew are taking shore leave for a week, but will be back aboard on Monday 16 May. Arctica is at Ardoran Marine in Loch Feochan, a few miles south of Oban. Getting in is interesting, with a narrow, shallow and tortuous passage between drying banks and the shore, but well defined by port and starboard markers. We were amused by the sign at Rathlin – Irish delusions of prettiness, or a cockney signwriter? More blogging in a week’s time.

Shelduck

Lochs Craignish and Crinan

We were very sorry to learn that our good friends on Seol na Mara had struck a rock outside Lagavulin, and that the boat was ashore there for inspection and repair. The existence of a GRP boatbuilder there seems to have been a well kept secret – but extremely handy in the circumstances. Our own passage north from Islay was exciting, with a quartering Force 6/7 wind and favourable tide, speeding us over the 40 miles to Crinan. We anchored off the sea lock, but the anchor picked up a huge mass of kelp and dragged. After clearing it we settled for the easy option of a mooring, which gave us better shelter. Before leaving the next day there was time for the Skipper to climb a hill and the Mate to walk along the canal to Bellanoch. The short trip up to Puilladobhrain (Otter’s Pool) took 3 hours with a following wind gusting to 35 knots – just touching gale force. The anchorage is beautifully sheltered, the sun is shining but the strong wind continues.

Rathlin Harbour

West Lighthouse, Rathlin

Rathlin is a beautiful island, well served by ferries from Ballycastle and well worth the short trip by anyone visiting north Antrim. An enquiry at the Visitor Centre established that Bruce’s Cave (of spider fame) is only accessible from the sea in a small boat in calm conditions, so we walked out to the East Lighthouse instead. This is a conventional tower, in contrast to the West Lighthouse, which is built into the cliffs with the light on a platform at its base – hence the nickname ‘upside-down lighthouse’. We met some lovely people from a 50 strong party on an outing of the Irish Dental Association, who had at one time made the trip home from St Kilda in a fast RIB in under 7 hours! Then it was back to sea for the trip across the North Channel to Islay, and a mooring at Port Ellen. We were rocked to sleep by the constant motion due to the bay’s SE exposure.

Mallard

Glenarm Marina

A fair tide and wind carried us up the coast to the quiet little town of Glenarm, with its neat little marina. We had time in the morning for a walk up the glen, through woods luxuriantly carpeted with bluebells and wild garlic, to a nature reserve – but found it reserved for members only. We left in late afternoon and were whisked north by a very strong tide and a following Force 6 wind. At one point we registered a speed of 11.3 knots! In three hours we were at Rathlin, tied up alongside the pontoon, well sheltered by breakwaters.

Music & Guiness Pub – Portaferry

Portaferry – Strangford Lough

Strangford Lough is beautiful and our few days there were spent in glorious weather, although the easterly wind got up at times. The surrounding countryside is low, green and rolling but there is a distant view of the Mountains of Mourne (sweeping down to the sea, of course!). The sailing directions warn of potential danger on leaving the lough with an onshore wind against outgoing tide, but there was no sign of a change in the continuing easterly. We went to Portaferry at the head of the narrows and consulted the harbourmaster for local advice as the sailing directions and cruising almanac offer differing advice as to timing an exit. When we left next morning, we found no difficulty, but the seas were confused for a couple of miles off the entrance. The SE 4/5 occasionally 6 gave us a fine sail up the coast, through the Copeland Pass and into Belfast Lough, where we paid a return visit to Bangor with its welcome facilities of showers, supermarket and diesel supply.

Still without a sailing wind, but with a surprisingly lumpy swell, we crossed back to the east coast of Ireland, and spent a night at the snug little marina at Ardglass. The harbour is beautiful but the town itself has little to offer unless its many small pubs are of interest. Timing our departure carefully, we reached the entrance to Strangford Lough at slack water, so avoiding the potential overfalls outside and tide in the narrows which can run at up to 7 knots. Once inside the lough we continued round to the SW end and moored off Quoile Yacht Club, in a quiet and pretty spot which induced us to be lazy for the rest of the day.

‘Lady Isabella’ – The Great Laxey Wheel

Fin & J treated us to another day’s car hire – a sporty wee Nissan Micra Convertible – and the two sports cars (theirs a proper one) toured in open-top company round Onchan, Laxey and Ramsey. We visited the famous Great Wheel at Laxey, water driven as IOM had no coal for steam engines, which provided power to lift buckets of zinc ore to the surface, and latterly also to transport miners up and down the 1500ft main shaft, otherwise a long and dangerous climb on ladders. On our last day we returned to Douglas to potter round the town and visit the Manx Museum, while Fin & J drove round the TT Mountain Course. We found the Isle of Man a very attractive place and really enjoyed our week’s visit.

Inner Harbour, Peel

Snaefell Mountain Train

After a big shopping in Douglas, the Skipper picked up a hired car for the day and set off round the IOM’s five Marilyns – Snaefell, Slieau Freoghane, South Barrule , Mull Hill and Bradda Hill. The morning of Fin & J’s arrival on the Liverpool ferry was wet (the first rain in a fortnight) but good weather then returned for the rest of our visit. Peel was busy over Easter weekend, with boat trips, a re-enactment at the castle and hill and road races. One afternoon the Skipper stood on a knoll above the harbour for a while, watching the swing bridge open and boats come and go, and was apparently dubbed ‘Statue Man’ by the crowd below. It was a surprise to be accosted by a group of young women demanding to be photographed with ‘Statue Man’!

Three Legs of Man

Inner Harbour, Peel

An easy crossing of the Irish Sea took us to the Isle of Man at its only west coast harbour – Peel. At high water, and with the footbridge at the mouth of the inner harbour open due to repairs, we were able to go straight in and take a pontoon berth. The inner harbour is prevented from drying out by a flapgate, which is raised as the tide falls and lowered as it rises, allowing entry during a four hour window round the time of high water. At low water it is possible to walk seaward from the flapgate for 100 metres without getting wet feet! Peel is a very attractive small town, the town centre just above the harbour having narrow streets and lanes, with tightly packed old houses painted in many colours. The three-legged Manx symbol is everywhere – on buildings, street furniture, signs and flags – all adding to the feeling of being somewhere different. A visit by bus to Douglas confirmed its city atmosphere and crowds, and a much less attractive or relaxing harbour, so we have decided to remain at Peel for the duration of our visit to IOM.

Out with the Old

In with the New

The last few days had seen us baling out a couple of bucketfuls of water from the engine bilge each day. Tasting proved it was not salt water so the problem was not serious, and must be from the fresh water system, somewhere in the stern area. The huge cockpit locker was emptied (no small task) for access to the pump and calorifier (hot water tank heated by recirculated engine cooling water). A telltale hiss told of a pinhole leak in the calorifier, which was traced on removal of some of the outer insulation. Due to age, the old unit was obviously beyond patching up and had to be replaced. A very helpful marine engineer was soon aboard and managed to source a modern replacement. The Skipper took out the old (vertical) unit and with great contortions managed to screw down the new (horizontal) unit, then assisted the engineer with fitting the new couplings and revised pipe layout. The water tanks were refilled, the engine run to check the heating and all declared OK. All this took place over two days of beautiful weather in Bangor, appreciated if not enjoyed as most of the time was spent down in the depths of the locker!

We crossed the North Channel in millpond conditions to Bangor, with its excellent marina. Another yacht left Portpatrick at the same time as us. We chose to hold to the shortest course, adjusting for tidal flow as we went, while the other yacht kept a steady heading allowing the tide to first sweep her south then back north as the tide turned. Neither strategy prevailed as we reached Bangor together.

Arctica’s New Cockpit Cover

Launched, rigged and loaded, we left Dumbarton to start our Summer 2011 cruise. There was a moment of anxiety as we strayed into shallow water at the edge of the unmarked channel from Dumbarton Rock to the Stone Beacon. With a sigh of relief, we soon joined the main River Channel and continued uneventfully down to Greenock, where a large container ship was berthing. Passing the yotspots of Cardwell Bay, Gourock YC, Inverkip Marina and Largs Yacht Haven we moored at Millport, well satisfied with an initial short trip to re-familiarise ourselves with the navigation and communications systems. As a trial run, we put up the new cockpit canopy and enjoyed its protection and all-round visibility for the evening.