Passing close under the Cloch Lighthouse at Gourock signalled that Arctica was about to complete the last few miles of her summer cruise – into the River Clyde at Greenock and up to her home port of Bowling. The weather on this long final day was particularly fine, right from leaving Campbeltown in the early morning, through the Kilbrannan Sound and Kyles of Bute and up to Bowling. The cruise lasted sixteen weeks (with a 2-week gap) and covered nearly 1600 nautical miles over the route Clyde – Crinan – Mull – Coll – Barra – Eriskay – South Uist – Benbecula – Scalpay – Stornoway – Loch Laxford – Cape Wrath – Kyle of Tongue – Scrabster – Longhope – Stromness (incl Folk Festival) – Rousay – Eday – Stronsay – Sanday – Westray – Fair Isle – Shetland (Grutness and Hos Voes) – Mousa – Noss – Whalsay – Out Skerries – Fetlar – Unst – Muckle Flugga (the northernmost point of the British Isles) – Yell – Colla Firth – Lerwick – Fair Isle – Westray – Stromness – Kinlochbervie – Lochinver – Summer Isles – Gairloch – Portree – Mallaig – Canna – Arisaig – Oban – Ardinamir – Tayvallich – Islay – Mull of Kintyre – Sanda – Campbeltown – Clyde. Apart from dragging anchor through the kelp at Noss at 3.00 am, the trip passed without incident – and our thoughts are already turning to next summer……… Norway? Faeroes? Round Ireland?
Bowling Harbour Ceilidh Band
Obviously not one of your upstart boy bands – grey hair or lack of it
predominating! The band featured as a fringe event of the Campbeltown Folk Festival and played at the Byron Darnton Tavern on the isle of Sanda over the weekend. We played for a total of sixteen hours over Friday evening to Sunday afternoon and it was a great gig. Due to bad weather, the ferry to take the other four band members off the island
did not turn up so the whole band (plus two other strandees) sailed on Arctica to Campbeltown for linking transport home. Arctica will make an early start tomorrow for the longish trip back to her home port of Bowling, and the end of a very successful cruise.
Folk at Sanda
Arctica is now at Sanda, a small island two miles off the Kintyre coast and thirteen south of Campbeltown as the crow flies. An attractive spot but somewhat exposed to the north-west, from which direction a Force 4/5 is forecast but not expected to last long. This was the tranquil scene last night as the sun set behind the Mull of Kintyre. The island has a pub (plus lighthouse and some self catering – nothing else) called the Byron Darnton, after an American liberty ship wrecked here in wartime, and this is the venue for a Folk weekend. The Bowling Harbour Ceilidh Band is taking part and the Skipper with his moothie is the advance party; Peter, Ken and Alan are being ferried in tonight. The stage is set for a good boys’ weekend!
Heading South
Tayvallich, six miles up Loch Sween from the Sound of Jura, is a completely landlocked anchorage and well worth the detour from the direct route south. The head of the loch splits into three parts, each surrounded by hills and trees; quite a contrast from the almost treeless Northern Isles. A very enjoyable evening was spent here in the company of friends old and new, before moving on again – to Islay. The day was one of continuous rain, a Force 5 on the nose and an uncomfortable cross-sea. For almost twenty miles down the Sound of Jura there was no sight of land or another vessel, until the Calmac ferry to Port Askaig loomed out of the murk and passed astern. I was glad of GPS positioning and a Chart Plotter, and not having to rely on dead reckoning. On cue, Ardmore point appeared close to, and we made in to the Ardmore Islands, a lovely group of islets and skerries offering shelter from the seas outside.
More Visitors
At Ardinamir, a popular anchorage on the east side of Luing, Arctica was visited by these Mute Swans which gobbled up fresh bread offered from outstretched fingers. So far we have fed eider ducks, seagulls and seals…..and hope we don’t end up feeding the fishes! Heading south again tomorrow to Tayvallich for a rendezvous with “Sea Swallow”.
Home Waters
Here we are in Oban, a bonny West Highland town and the gateway for Calmac sailings to Mull and the Hebrides. It looked fine on arrival – the esplanade in bright sunshine and the scene overlooked by McCaig’s Folly on the skyline – but today it is gey dreich, a not uncommon
situation in these parts. After spending so much of the cruise in distant Orkney and Shetland waters this feels much like home waters again, but there is still a fair distance to go, round the Mull of Kintyre and into the Clyde estuary. Now sailing single-handed since the Mate went home from Mallaig with a bad back, and making gradually for Sanda (off the M of K) where there is a folk weekend and the Bowling Harbour Ceilidh Band, of which the Skipper is an occasional member, is appearing. Have written a humorous sea song “The Bowling Belle” for the occasion.
Creatures of the Sea
Today Arctica was visited by this Grey Seal which frequents Mallaig Harbour, and has grown fat through the generosity of the local
fishermen. It obviously expected to be fed but turned up its nose at the
bread offered, which was quickly snapped up by the seagulls. One of them was bold enough to be hand fed. Porpoises were seen on the short passage south to Arisaig, and we nearly ran down a young (15ft) basking shark off the mouth of the South Channel which leads in to Arisaig at the head of Loch na Ceall.
Stranger Still
Early in our trip as we passed through Gunna Sound, the passage between Coll And Tiree, we saw the strange sight of a playful dolphin chasing a Great Northern Diver which was too full of fish to take off. The latter was panic-stricken and attempted unsuccessfully to shake off the dolphin by madly flapping its wings and running across the water, much to our amusement. However, today brought an even stranger sight. On Canna, we came across this rabbit coolly (sorry!) sitting in a burn. What on earth was it doing? Had Mrs Rabbit told him to go cool his ardour? Or was he merely enjoying a paddle? Very strange.
Boats, boats, boats
On this trip we have seen boats of all shapes and sizes – from canoes through rowing boats, ribs, Orkney yoles, Shetland sixareens, lobster
boats, fishing boats, lifeboats, roro ferries, pelagic trawlers and
cruise liners to oil tankers. We’ll likely collect the full set with a
submarine in the Clyde! But today we passed this beautiful restored Dutch barge at the Raasay narrows. What a picture with her gaff rig, tan sails and traditional barge boards. But when it comes to maintenance – I’d stick with the modern ‘plastic’.
The Mountains and The Sea (apologies to Tom Paxton)
The coastline of Wester Ross features large bays with sheltered sea
lochs leading off – but the dominating feature is the dramatic backdrop of mountains. These rise spectacularly from low moorland to give a constantly changing vista as we sail past. Well know and instantly recognisable peaks such as Suilven, Culs Mor and Beag, Stac Pollaidh, An Teallach, and the Carnmore group (which includes a’Mhaighdean – the most remote munro) brought back memories of wonderful hillwalking in this area and reminded of the need to return. The photo shows the Torridon hills from off the mouth of Loch Gairloch as we neared the entrance on a fine summer evening.
The Old Man
Between ports of call Kinlochbervie and Lochinver, we passed the prominent sea stack known as The Old Man of Stoer. Climbers reach its base by traversing a rope slung beween it and the cliff foot. The Skipper failed in an attempt to climb it on a cold Easter day many years ago, but redeemed himself the next day by leading a climb up an
ice-bound gully on Quinag. Other well known sea stacks passed on this
trip have been The Old Man of Hoy and Am Buachaille at Sandwood Bay.
Cape Wrath
We said farewell to the Northern Isles of Shetland, Fair Isle and Orkney and sailed from Stromness to Kinlochbervie on the NW mainland. The day was a mixture of sunny spells and occasional light drizzle, but with a steady NNW Force 4-5 wind to keep us going on the 70 mile passage. Rounding Cape Wrath, the NW extremity of Scotland, gave us some heavy swells but the sea was much flatter for the final 20 miles. A very enjoyable 13 hour sail.
Hamnavoe
Stromness stands on the sheltered bay of Hamnavoe, and the town grew out of crewing, watering and provisioning the Hudson’s Bay Company ships, the Greenland whaling fleet (largely out of Hull) and the herring fishing industry in its heyday. The name /Hamnavoe /is now carried by the P&O RoRo ferry which plies between Stromness and Scrabster (by Thurso), making three return sailings each day. In harbour, it dwarfs the adjacent marina where we are berthed and the three loud blasts on its whistle as it moves astern from the pier never fail to startle us.
Waiting for Wind
After a short visit to the lovely north Orkney isle of Westray, including the customary visit to the Pierowall Hotel for its world (?)
famous fresh haddock and chips, we made down to Stromness – our
departure point for Cape Wrath and the NW coast of Scotland. Winds are
strong and adverse so Arctica is waiting for better conditions for this passage. It is always a pleasure to visit the second town of Orkney with its stone-paved narrow main street, interesting waterfront architecture, and pier busy with mainland ferry, fishing fleet and Scapa Flow dive boats.
Seabirds Galore
Fair Isle lies midway between Orkney and Shetland, and is renowned for the diversity of its bird life – indigenous and migratory. The RSPB Bird Observatory offers dinner, a bar and showers for visiting yachts and, in our case an address at which mail can be collected. Of all the seabirds the puffin is the most endearing, and these chaps are typical – they can be approached to within an few feet.
A Visit from Oscar Charlie
We were off Sumburgh Head, heading for Fair Isle with a following wind and lumpy sea when we were overflown by the Coastguard Rescue Helicopter. The VHF came over “Helicopter Oscar Charlie – request permission to land a winchman aboard as a training exercise”. Of course we were delighted to help and excited at the unexpected activity. We turned close hauled on the port tack and Oscar Charlie slowly closed in – with less downdraught but much more noise than expected. The high-line was lowered and hauled in, then the winchman was lowered and pulled aboard. Too noisy for speech, but thumbs-up were exchanged. All too soon the procedure was reversed and we resumed course for Fair Isle. We appreciated familiarisation with the procedure, but hope never to require the Coastguard’s services for real.
Salmon Fish Supper!
Bad news: had to pay harbour dues at Whalsay. Good news: we were gifted a fantastic 10lb salmon – see photo.
Whalsay Regatta 2005
With the atypical Northerly wind continuing, we decided to go with the flow and had a great sail south west to Whalsay. Unfolded the bikes and set off round the island to see what was what. Discovered that our arrival coincided with the annual island regatta, which opened with a parade of Vikings, brass band and floats – complete with seemingly unnecessary police escort. Later youthful water bomb fights suggested earlier police presence was amusingly well judged. The ice cream van saw inexplicably roaring trade, and at 9.30pm, while Mr Whippy was queueing for the return ferry home, we gave in and had the chilliest 99s on record.
To the Out Skerries and beyond..!
Anchor dragged at midnight so we decided to head down to Lerwick even earlier than planned! Collected Innes off the ferry from Aberdeen then did battle with the northerly wind as we motored north to the Out Skerries. Saw this scallop fishing boat as we arrived – a typical local enterprise. We tied up at pier that featured a heated shower block – joy!
Plenty of Puffins at Noss
Sailed down from Vassa Voe to the island of Noss – drifting en-route as we watched gannets skilfully diving for fish. Anchored in Nesti Voe and set off on foot around the island, hotly pursued by inquisitive seals. Turning a corner, we shook off the seals and stumbled upon a plethora of puffins (what is the correct collective noun for puffins?). We soon realised they were unfazed by our presence and crept closer, spending an exciting half-hour watching and photographing their comical antics. Heading back to the boat, we survived the concerted attack of a squadron of Skuas being overly protective of their young. Early start on the cards for tomorrow as we return to Lerwick to meet Innes off the ferry at 7am…
Welcome to Shetland for J and Fin
Fin and J joined Arctica on Shetland yesterday for a week’s holiday. From balmy London to blustery Lerwick – the clean sea air offsets the appreciable drop in temperature. With the Arctic Circle just 6 degrees further North, being a bit chilly comes as no surprise! The Northerly wind has today eased to Force 5, so we decide it’s worth leaving the shelter of Lerwick harbour to head further up the coast to a more peaceful anchorage. After stocking up on generous quantities of wine and whisky (purely in the interests of warmth 
, we motored North through Cat Firth to Vassa Voe.