On leaving the Crowlin anchorage we set full sail in a light breeze, but
it suddenly blew up to a near gale, forcing us to double reef for an
exhilarating sail down to the Skye Bridge. From there it was
motorsailing against a light southerly through Kylerhea and down to Loch
Nevis, where we anchored at Glas Choille. The same weather pattern was
repeated next day, giving us a superb broad reach right across to Loch
Scresort, Rum where we had the bay to ourselves. We visited Stroma and
David at their flat in Kinloch Castle with irrepressible two year old
son, new baby daughter and visiting grannie, Irene. The castle, now run
by Scottish Natural Heritage as a hostel, bistro and bar, is almost
entirely in its century old original condition with resplendent
Victorian contents – including fully working automatic ‘orchestrium’,
built-in with beautiful brass, chrome, carpentry and mechanical
linkages. It was commissioned by Queen Victoria but never installed
after her death, allowing Lord Bullough to acquire it.
Good Sailing
Lewis to Skye
After saying farewell to Stornoway, we sat out 36 hours of strong
southerlies at Lemrevay, Loch Shell and had to motor the anchor out as
it was so well dug in. After a night at Scalpay North Harbour we crossed
the Minch in a flat calm to Acarseid Mor on Rona, a popular anchorage
which we shared with three other yachts – that is crowded by our
standards! Then to Portree where we waited at the pier for two hours for
diesel as, due to staff shortage, one harbourmaster is covering both Uig
and Portree. The next day the Mate bussed round the Totternish peninsula
while the Skipper climbed a couple of the Red Cuillins. We moved on in
the evening to the Crowlin Islands where we were fortunate to meet
Seanachan and Ilona on Sonas, and had a drink and a blether with them.
It was a beautiful evening and the photo was taken after 11pm.
Sailing Again
Our travels in Arctica have resumed after some ten days at home. With
hindsight, we timed the trip perfectly – at the end of the long spell of
very fine weather. Highlight of the break was an outing in Seol na Mara
with Peter, Iain and Barbara to view the classic yachts mustered on the
Clyde for the Fife Regatta (yacht designer, not county). We were at the
start as these beautiful craft with enormous sail plans set off to race
from Rhu to Rothesay – a truly spectacular sight. Then Barbara cooked up
not only fresh scones – her specialty – but also strawberry jam to go
with them! It was a wonderful day out in great company. The following
day Iain and the Skipper bussed to Glencoe and climbed a couple of
Grahams (2000ft hills) getting soaked to the skin in the process.
Luckily catching a bus immediately on descent to Ballachulish, we
changed into dry clothes at the back of the bus, which was fortunately
far from busy.
On our return to Stornoway (where the Lewis Chessman lives) we were
amazed to see a Great Northern Diver swimming in the Harbour, not 20
metres from the pontoon.
Lewis
The wild weather over, we ventured out again and made for Lemervay, at
the mouth of Loch Shell, inside Eilean Iubhard where a large Norwegian
‘mother ship’ was hoovering up salmon from the fish farm. (Photo -
Shiants and Skye from Orasay, Loch Shell). Cromore, at the entrance of
Loch Erisort was our next port of call – a sheltered spot overlooked by
a few cottages and croft houses.From there it was a short hop to
Stornoway and the luxury of a pontoon berth in the inner harbour. The
excellent bus services were used for trips north to Tolsta to climb
Muirneag 248m, and west to Shawbost for Beinn Bhragair 261m. We have
decided to return home for ten days, leaving Arctica in Stornoway; our
sailing adventures will resume thereafter.
A Bit Wild
Just a nice photo – no connection with the gale! Overnight, the wind got
up as forecast and we let out extra anchor chain as a precaution. By
morning a gale was being funnelled through the gap in the hills east
of Clisham and came roaring over Loch Maaruig, driving white horses
through the anchorage. It set up quite a racket – waves breaking, water
slapping the hull, a howl from the rigging and loud snubbing of the
anchor chain as Arctica sheered about, heeling dramatically in the
strongest gusts. Despite all this, we recorded nothing more than a Force
8 gale. The mind boggles at the thought of being out at sea in a Force
10 – hats off to all deep sea fishermen! The weather did not seem to
affect the otter out fishing for his dinner quite close to the boat. Today is another of gusting wind, but there are signs of the weather moderating. We will be content to spend another day here catching up on our reading.
Back to Harris
According to the local press, this continues to be the driest spell in
the Outer Hebrides for 40 years – we can scarcely believe our good
fortune in being here at the right time. Since Miavaig we have visited
Loch Carloway with its broch, Kirkibost in East Loch Roag, Loch
Tamanavay where we saw another golden eagle, and then returned through
the Sound of Harris to Loch Finsbay. Today we sailed up the east coast
of Harris, spotting two minke whales, and in to Loch Maaruig, an
offshoot of Loch Seaforth. On a bright and breezy afternoon the Skipper
climbed Todum 528m, a shapely hill overlooking the anchorage, and met
people for the first time in the last 21 hills. With the possibility of
winds gusting up to Force 8 in the next 24 hours we will review our
options in the morning; fortunately the east coast of Lewis offers a
good choice of sheltered anchorages.
Miavaig, Lewis
With no sign of impending precipitation and the fine weather continuing,
we went in to Miavaig, in the SW corner of West Loch Roag, which looks
full of interest on both the Admiralty Chart and the OS Map. We were
glad of our chart plotter, which enabled us to easily avoid the many
skerries, reefs and shallow patches. We were struck by the beauty of the
place, and the temporary availability of a pontoon berth induced us to
stay for three nights. We were fortunate to befriend Alastair and Margo
who live locally, and will soon be setting sail for Greenland in their
lovely wooden yacht ‘Iona of Rhu’. A few more Marilyns have been
climbed, and the Mate enjoyed a short visit to Stornoway on the Post
Bus. With no rain for seven weeks now, the moors are exceptionally dry,
but would normally be exhausting bogland. As it is, the going is rough,
compensating for the relatively low height of the hills.
More Islands
We were fortunate in choosing the best day of the week for our visit to
Taransay, now uninhabited with no obvious traces of ‘Castaway’ from a few
years ago. The scenery, weather and turquoise water gave nothing to the
Caribbean save the water temperature – not enticing for swimming!The island
is very attractive with sandy beaches and dunes, rocky foreshore, hill
lochans (one with remains of a dun), and fine views of the Harris hills from
its summit, Ben Raah 297m. Next morning we set off early for the beautiful
anchorage at the north end of Scarp (photo), the Mate sunbathing while the
Skipper climbed Sron Romul 308m. Later we moved on to Camas Uig, Lewis, a
few miles short of Loch Roag, where we dropped the hook in a nice pool with
a sandy beach, sheltered from seaward by islets.The day ended with another
spectacular, fiery sunset but we can expect some showers within the next 24
hours.
West Loch Tarbert
After a spectacular sunset, the day started bright and the wind had
abated to a Force 5, but the forecast was for rain to come. We motored
through the Sound of Harris, finding a number of the buoys marked on a
newly purchased chart were missing, but following the Cope Passage was
straightforward. Clear of all dangers, we set reefed sails and had a
grand sail across to Toe Head at the SW end of Harris, but faced a
headwind round in the Sound of Taransay, which saw us motorsailing
thereafter. The predicted rain arrived and the hills took on a gloomy
aspect. We anchored for the night in a sheltered spot off the old
whaling station in Loch Bun Abhainn-eader, 3 miles west of West Loch
Tarbert, and moved up there the next morning.
2(F+J)
No, we are not trying to resurrect our schooldays algebra – this refers to
the Skipper and Mate having the company of both Fan & James and Fin & J when
the latter pair arrived in East Loch Tarbert for a holiday at Seilebost, on
Harris. They dined on Arctica, and all four went on photo safari during the
day, making good use of the availability of a hired car. We could not resist
showing our own attempt at an artistic photo of rocks and lichen.After
waving farewell to Fan & James on the ferry to Uig, and thence via Glasgow
to South Britain, we decided to visit the west side of the Outer Hebrides,
and sailed the first leg down to Hermetray, just off North Uist at the end
of the Sound of Harris. Vaccasay Basin, where we anchored, now has an
extensive fish farm, but there is room to anchor and avoid Dirt Rock. We let
out plenty of chain and were untroubled by the strong winds which continued
overnight.
Sea Lochs of North Harris
The sun was obscured by a layer of high cloud which cooled the day
considerably and drained the colour from the landscape. This provided a
good opportunity to explore Loch Seaforth, a fjord-like loch extending
inland for some 15 miles. We went half way up, passing the extensive
fish farm inside the entrance and the inlet of Loch Maaruig, and
anchored off Ath Linne (photo) just past Seaforth Island, which boasts
its own ‘Marilyn’. The Crew opted for an afternoon of relaxation aboard,
while the Skipper took to the handy hill track (signposted ‘Walkers
Welcome’) and climbed Cearnabhal 378m and Liuthaid 492m, a nice pair of
hills. We moved back out and round the point into Loch Claidh, where we
spent the night in the lovely anchorage tucked in behind Eilean
Hingerstay, where we saw black throated divers, otters, seals and a stag
on the skyline above at sunset.
North Uist
We left Loch Skiport with the intention of staying a night at Kallin,
Grimsay but found pier extension works in progress and the visitor’s
mooring temporarily removed. Resuming passage northwards, we carried on
to Lochmaddy – and still the sun shone, showing everything at its best.
The photographers revelled in the quality of light and range of subjects
to catch their eye, while the skipper bagged a few more hills. Good use
was made by all of the excellent facilities at the new Tigh Dearg Hotel,
with a first class fitness suite, sauna and showers. Today we had an NE
wind on the nose and motorsailed up to North Harbour, Scalpay where the
sun came out again after an overcast morning.
Barra to South Uist
A smooth crossing to the Outer Isles saw Arctica back in Castlebay,
Barra for the third time in three weeks, all in good weather. Fine views
of islands were had from Heishval Mor 190m, the highest point of
Vatersay, from Muldoanich (photo) down to Mingulay, while Fan and James
visited Eoligarry at the north end. Acarseid Mor, Eriskay, a short sail
north, was the next harbour. A new pontoon for lobster boats is in place
beside the pier and ongoing earthworks give sign of further development
to come. Beinn Scrien 185m was added to the list of island summits while
the photographers immersed themselves in their art. A moderate sea with
a light following breeze made for rather rolling progress to Loch
Skiport, S Uist, where we anchored in the sheltered Poll na Cairidh and
devoted the remainder of the day to the three R’s (reading, relaxing,
reposing).
Knoydart
With the Skipper on his own, the Marilyn theme and the fine weather
continued with short trips to Inverie (photo) and Loch Hourn to climb Druim
na Cluain-Airighe c500m and Beinn Mhialairigh 548m respectively. Back at
Arisaig, on the return aboard of the Mate, a shopping expedition to Fort
William saw stores replenished ready for the arrival of Fan and James for
the next sortie. Before their arrival we enjoyed a bright, still evening -
with Arisaig and views west to Eigg and Rum at their best. We left for
Canna, planning to cross over the Sea of the Hebrides the next day to Barra,
then gradually working our way north up the Outer Hebrides.
Hills and Harbours
On another fine day, but without a sailing wind, we crossed back east to
the Inner Hebrides passing north of Canna and on to Kilmory Bay on the N
coast of Rum, where we anchored. The bay is wide and sandy with rocky
enclosing arms, and dozens of red deer were at rest on the sand or
standing in the water’s edge. We climbed Mullach Mor 304m, a modest hill
with a big hill feature – a succession of false summits – but holding
many attractive small lochans in its rough ground. The night was spent
at the head of Loch Scavaig, a superb anchorage close to Loch Coruisk
and the high Cuillins (photo), where we had the pleasure of meeting
Norman and Gillian from ‘Curlew’ and spending a few hours chatting to
them. In the morning we climbed Sgurr na Stri 497m and on return Andrew
took an unscheduled dip as he slipped on the rocks when boarding the
dinghy. Later, we headed for Mallaig Harbour to spend the last night of
a very successful ‘boys’ week’.
Marilyns
When Iain and Andrew arrived we immediately left Arisaig for Rum,
dropping anchor in Loch Scresort off the old stone pier in company with
four other boats. After dinner, we walked west some way along the track
and on return found out that once again we had missed David and Stroma,
who were over at Inverie for the night. An 0630 start next morning saw
us heading for Barra, passing south of Canna and out past Hyskeir. We
raised the cruising chute and had a grand sail over to Castlebay,
changing down to reefed genoa as the wind got up to Force 5. As it was
still early afternoon we made a leisurely ascent of Ben Tangaval, a
‘Marilyn’ (hill over 150m with a re-ascent of at least 150m on all
sides, of which there are some 1500 throughout the UK) which Andrew was
keen to climb. Next morning we anchored off Muldoanich 151m (another M,
and the lowest one to qualify), which the crew climbed while the skipper
kept watch aboard as the anchor was set on rock. After the short hop
across to Sandray, we all climbed to its summit, Cairn Galtar 205m (yes,
another M) from the lovely sandy beach at Meanish Bay. Our chosen
anchorage tonight is the ‘Blue Lagoon’ between two outlying islands, a
seldom visited spot requiring careful pilotage through the rock-strewn
entry channel, where we are watched over by nesting golden eagles.
Back to Arisaig
On Coll we met the crews of two high speed launches which were playing
the part of ‘terrorists’ for the multinational naval exercise taking
place off the west coast of Scotland. Shortly after they set off for the
day’s manoeuvres we too left, sailing N up the deserted north-east coast
of Coll to Sorisdale Bay, and on past the Cairns of Coll to Muck.
Arriving at mid-tide, many of the drying reefs were covered, so we were
careful to identify the leading line for a safe approach to Gallanach
Bay and anchored well inshore. It was a very peaceful and attractive
spot, with panoramic views of hills and mountains on Skye, Rum, Eigg and
the mainland. We left in the morning with the forecast of a rising gale,
motored across to Galmisdale on Eigg to recharge the batteries, then
sailed double-reefed over to Arisaig to complete the week’s circuit with
Jim and Linda.
Call at Coll
Sailing SE from Barra across the Sea of the Hebrides, we passed through
Gunna Sound which separates Coll and Tiree, and N into the anchorage at
Arinagour, Coll’s only village – complete with gun to repel unwanted
visitors! The northern two-thirds and extreme SW tip of the island are
Lewisian gneiss, its low hummocks infilled with peat bogs and lochans.
The remaining third consists of very ancient metamorphosed sandstones
containing quartz and marble. The west coast has a covering of
wind-blown shell sand, forming dunes over 100ft high and machair
suitable for grazing. The highest point is Ben Hogh at 341ft. On our
walk across the island and round Cliad Bay we were delighted to have a
chance encounter with Mhairi and John and young family, who were
holidaying on the island.
Crossing the Minch
Now there’s a good name for a tune! We crossed from Canna to Barra in
fine weather, losing sunshine only for a spell, which reminded us how
chilly it can be on the water in a northerly breeze so early in the
season. Incidents during the trip – being buzzed by three jet fighters
engaged in dogfighting practice, and sighting a couple of dolphins.
Landfall was made at Muldoanich, and the channel markers followed in to
Castlebay (photo) with its handy visitors’ moorings. Today we took the
bus west-about up to the airfield and watched the arrival and departure
of the Glasgow/Barra/Benbecula flight, which lands on the beach at low
tide, before walking to Eoligarry and along Traigh Scurrival, a mile and
a half long beach of white sand with wonderful views out to offlying
islands, Eriskay and South Uist. We completed the round-island trip by
bussing east-about back to Castlebay.
Arisaig and Canna
We had good sailing from Mull round Ardnamurchan Point to Arisaig,
arriving shortly before the wind really got up. The holding is good
and we spent a comfortable at anchor night despite the strong wind and
heavy rain. A phone next morning call to a yacht rigger on the Clyde
provided directions for stripping down the Furlex gear, so while the
mate took the train into Fort William for provisions, the skipper
successfully repaired the headsail furling system. Later in the day we
were joined for the week by Jim and Linda, who brought good weather
with them – the evening turned out very fine. With good weather
continuing we sailed out past Rum and round to Canna, enjoying views
of the mainland hills. As the afternoon warmed up, the cloud level
gradually rose, revealing the peaks of the Skye and Rum Cuillins. We
walked across the new bridge to Sanday to visit the renovated church,
but found it still a building site after five years of (very
intermittent?) work.
Up Aloft
We have been having trouble with the headsail furling gear on Arctica -
it has been excessively stiff to operate. No obvious problem at deck
level could be found, so suspicion turned on the masthead. We have had
to recognise that our days of climbing the mast are over, except when
emergency dictates. News of our difficulties spread and the
Harbourmaster suggested we have a word with the contractor building the
new shoreside facilities following the installation of extended pontoon
berthing. The upshot was a trip aloft in the basket of his extending
crane, as the photo shows. Sadly, no problem was found there either but
a couple of screws were tightened and WD40 applied liberally to the
moving parts before descending to terra firma. Tomorrow will tell
whether or not the problem has been fixed. Tonight we sleep with fingers
crossed!
Otters
Last night was spent in the lovely anchorage at Puilladobhrain
(Otters’ Pool) but no otters were seen. However tonight at Tobermory
we watched from the gangway to the mooring pontoon an otter, not
twenty feet away, diving in repeatedly, bringing its catch to the
rocks and crunching it down noisily. It being dusk, there was not
light enough for a photo so today’s photo is of Duart Castle, which
stands imposingly on a headland at the southeast end of the Sound of
Mull. It has been the ancestral home of the MacLeans since about 1250
although it was lost for 200 years to the Duke of Argyll, who overran
it in 1691. It is open to the public, and an important tourist
attraction on Mull, as is Tobermory itself, with its brightly painted
seafront buildings and boats in the bay.
WHISKY TRAIL
It could be said that Arctica is on the whisky trail. After the first
night of the season at Tighnabruaich, the next port of call was
Campbeltown, home to two distilleries – Glen Scotia and Springbank. It
was once the whisky capital of Scotland with 21 producing distilleries
in 1886! A rare and favourable ENE wind took us round the Mull of
Kintyre and nicely up to Islay, where there are 7 working
distilleries. We are moored for the night in the small anchorage at
Lagavulin, sheltered by islets outside and guarded over by the ruins
of a castle on the point. With the UK Coastguard taking industrial
action there are no usual weather forecasts for the next few days, but
we can get alternatives by VHF from Ireland, on Navtex and on the Met
Office website. The easterly airflow is set to continue, which is
ideal for us as we sail north.
Afloat Again
The sailing season is underway and Arctica will be launched this week,
after a flurry of cleaning, scrubbing, polishing, fixing, antifouling,
loading and rigging. It will be nice to feel movement in her again after
six months propped up ashore in the boatyard at Dumbarton. At last some
warmth is creeping in to the lengthening days and we hope for a good
summer ahead – Force 4 winds and sunshine! We will set off after
receiving the few items on order and due for delivery in the next few
days, and will be reporting our progress as usual. All friends are
welcome to post comments on the blog.
Rum to Oban
At Rum, we had hoped to see David and Stroma (and young Jamie) who are the island managers for Scottish Natural Heritage, but they were away on holiday. We walked in to the centre of the island but did not have time for the extra six miles required for a visit to the old village of Kilmory. Kinloch Castle, at the head of Loch Scresort, built at the turn of the century by Sir George Bullough, whose father made the family fortune designing milling machinery, is an extravagant monument to Edwardian opulence. Turtles and alligators were kept in heated tanks, a pure white Arab stallion was imported to improve the stock of native ponies, and two Albion cars were used to transport guests. Today, in faded grandeur, it provides B&B and hostel accommodation and hosts a few weddings. We had a grand sail from Rum down to Ardnamurchan point and up the Sound of Mull to Loch Aline – wind and tide with us all the way. Now in Oban, we will restock and prepare for guests joining us for the weekend.
Skye
For the trip down to Portree we had a glassy calm sea – ideal for spotting cetaceans – and we saw porpoises and dolphins but no whales. Showers rolled round and over the mainland hills but, despite the skies greying over, we reached Portree before the rain started. The next morning we sailed with the tide down to Kyleakin, berthing for the afternoon at the visitors’ pontoon. Again, the rain started just after our arrival but later we were able to get a short walk ashore. When the tide turned in our favour again we passed down through Kyle Rhea to Isle Ornsay, and anchored in time for a meal before the light faded. Strong winds overnight and all the following day saw us (and a few other yachts) waiting for better conditions – which did arrive today. A light southerly breeze has us motorsailing down the Sound of Sleat, making for Loch Scresort, Rum.
The North West
It was a day for seeing hills as we moved south – Quinag, Suilven, Coigach hills, Inverlael group, Fannichs, An Teallach and the Carnmore hills, including a’Mhaighdean the remotest of the Munros. Reminders of how little exercise is taken on an extended cruise. Mist rolled on and off the hills, but it was clear at sea except during a single short, sharp downpour. The afternoon brightened and we entered Loch Ewe – always a disappointment seen from landward but much more attractive from seaward. The loch was an assembly area for Atlantic convoys during the war, and numerous concrete gun emplacements still stand today. Aultbea is still a NATO fuel depot. The photo shows the peaks of An Teallach behind the Coastguard vessel at anchor off the Isle of Ewe.
Orkney and South
Due to adverse weather, we lay over in Kirkwall for three days after seeing Fin And J (photo) off on their return journey to London. Strong westerlies prevailed – with white horses even inside the inner harbour! At the first opportunity we moved round to Stromness, then made the long crossing south-west round Cape Wrath. It was a good passage in fine weather – rough only for a mile or so as the tide turned against us short of the Cape Wrath Light. Once round, the wind died and we motored through a still evening to the anchorage in Loch a’Chad-Fi, off Loch Laxford. This is where John Ridgway has his adventure school, and his ocean-going yacht was hauled out on the slipway, and well tethered down. At present we are southbound on the West Coast, having just passed the bird reserve isle of Handa.
Fair Isle – again
After visiting Balta Sound (Unst), Vidlin and the anchorage at Lingness we returned to Lerwick where Mike and Anne left and Fin and J joined us. The temporary loss of J’s baggage on the flight from London and near gale force northerlies kept us there for three days, but at last we got away for Fair Isle. We enjoyed beautiful weather on our day there – the skipper walking right round the coast, and Fin and J covering much of the island on photo-shoot. It’s one of these once-seen-never-forgotten places. The sail down to Orkney took much longer than usual due to adverse winds and tide, so we missed the flood tide through the sounds to Kirkwall – running into strong tidal ‘roosts’ which all but stopped progress. We switched to Plan B and spent the night tied up at Backaland pier at the south end of Eday, completing the trip this morning. It is now raining, and with gale force southerlies forecast for at least the next two days we are happy to be snug in the marina.
Out Skerries/Unst
With no recent photos taken, here is a playful kitten we met in Fair Isle. At Symbister the day dawned sunny with a N4 wind, tempting us not to linger, but make the 10 mile trip northeast to the Out Skerries. The pier is in a fine natural harbour formed between three small islands, and there we berthed after a sparkling sail from Whalsay. We met another yacht just returned from a trip to the Lofotens and the Arctic Circle, and again with local acquaintance Gibby, who very kindly arranged for us to have a complimentary salmon from the processing plant. On the dreich day following, our only full day of steady rain so far, we moved on to Balta Sound in Unst. Today proved brighter, so we motored round to nearby Haroldswick, where Mike and Anne went ashore to visit the Boat Museum – well worth a visit by anyone. We are now on passage in light airs to Burra Voe at the south of Yell, where there is a snug harbour – the forecast suggests a strong east wind tomorrow.
Lerwick/Whalsay
We motored up from Fair Isle to Shetland on a calm, sunny day and saw no sign of the notorious roost off Sumburgh Head, nor of whales, much to Mike’s disappointment. The anchor was dropped at Mousa, letting Mike and Anne go ashore to to visit the famous Pictish broch, the best preserved in Europe. Evening saw us berthed in the Small Boat Harbour at Lerwick among almost exclusively Scandinavian yachts. The morning dawned with clear skies and bright sunshine, and it became too hot to sit out in the cockpit in comfort – this while parts of England suffered severe flooding. On the way up to Whalsay we saw the North Sea Rescue Helicopter doing repeated drills, retrieving a man from the water. A race among the matched double-ended yoles was just finishing as we reached Symbister, where we met up again with /Iris May II /and her lady skipper, whom we last saw in Wick. The sunset was particularly fine – a fitting end to a grand day.
Fair Isle
A fresh breeze, moderate sea and occasional sunshine made for a superb
sail from Westray to Fair Isle. The old and new light towers on North Ronaldsay, so prominent against the very low-lying island, seem to take much of the passage to approach, pass and leave astern. Bearing down on Fair Isle, the island basked in sunshine – but there was a sting in the tail. The tide had built a big roost off the entrance to North Haven, with 4 metre seas and breaking crests. It made for an exciting final approach, and a superb contrast to the calm once through the narrow entrance. Fair Isle is high on our list of favourite places and we were fortunate to time our visit for a Thursday, so enjoyed an evening of dinner, slide show and live music at the Bird Observatory.
Stronsay & Westray
Sailing north from Kirkwall on the ebb, we were increasingly subject to a dying breeze and a building tide. We were gradually swept further west than intended and had to contend with a 5kt tide off Muckle Green Holm (S of Eday). The sea was spectacularly boiling and noisy, and we spent a frustrating length of time in its grip before breaking free and resuming course for Stronsay. Once again we were greeted by the black guillemots which nest in crevices in the stone pier. Next morning, we all went for a cycle run, unfortunately just missing the short visit of the inter-island plane at the airstrip. Later, we took the ebb tide north and west and, with a good wind, had a fine sail to Pierowall, Westray passing through the violent roost (tide race) off Red Point at the N exit from Calf Sound.
Orkney
We left Wick in a NW6 gusting 7 and set shortened sail for the passage
to Orkney, making 7.5kts with a little help from the tide. We sailed
thus past the Pentland Firth and up the coast of South Ronaldsay, round Copinsay and into Deer Sound, where we spent the night at anchor off Tankerness Pier. In the morning we sailed north to Stronsay and berthed at Whitehall pier, where we were joined by /Seol na Mara/ with Iain and Barbara aboard. Centre of attraction was this superb replica Bugatti waiting on the pier for the Ro-Ro ferry. Not just wheeled out for rallies and shows, it is the everyday transport of its owner, who keeps it in beautiful condition. We are now in Kirkwall for the arrival of Mike and Anne, who will cruise with us to Fair Isle and Shetland.
Northbound
Our ports of call northbound to Orkney were Helmsdale and Wick. We had a fine sail in good weather through Inverness Firth, past the Cromarty and Dornoch firths, and up to Helmsdale. This attractive little town has a small, sheltered harbour with a visitors’ pontoon and good shoreside facilities. We arrived in Wick on the best day of the summer so far, lacking only a sailing breeze. The town, much maligned, is indeed rather grey with mostly stone buildings, and somewhat lacking in character. However, the harbour area is extensive, and has a new yacht pontoon in the outer harbour (photo), and there are plans for a full-scale marina in the inner harbour for next season. The general improvement in marine leisure activities is the silver lining in the black cloud of the sad decline of the fishing industry. We are waiting an extra day in Wick before crossing to Orkney, as a favourable wind is forecast for tomorrow.
Caledonian Canal
The second half of Arctica’s season began with a crossing of Scotland
through the Caledonian Canal, for which Jim and Linda joined as crew.
From Corpach on Loch Linnhe to Inverness on the Moray Firth the canal
is 60 statute miles long with 29 locks and 10 swing bridges to
negotiate. At a relaxing pace it takes three days’ passage time, so we
did not hurry but enjoyed the scenery and took time for walks along the
canal banks. We berthed overnight at Laggan Locks at the head of Loch
Lochy, at Fort Augustus at the bottom of Loch Ness (where Andrew and
Alison joined us for the day) and at Muirtown locks in Inverness. We
dined handsomely at the floating seafood restaurant beside the marina -
where we restocked the next day with water, fuel and provisions before
moving on to Clachnaharry sea-lock ready for departure in the morning.
Despite some torrential downpours, we all enjoyed the passage – the
photo was taken at Cullochy lock, just after Loch Oich which is the top
reach of the canal.
The Last Leg
The island of Rathlin, only a dozen miles from the Mull of Kintyre, was the last port of call on our circumnavigation of Ireland. We had
glorious weather and explored the island by bike. The lighthouse at the West end is unique in being built ‘upside down’ with the light at the bottom and the services and accommodation above. No, not an Irish
blunder but for technical reasons – to get the beam shining from the
required height. We then pottered north to Gigha, Crinan and Oban. The
23 boats in Ardminish Bay, Gigha outnumbered by 3 to 1 those we had seen on the whole trip round Ireland! Apologies for the break in blogging – due to computer failure and a mid-season break at home. Blogging will resume for the forthcoming trip to the Northern Isles.
Jury Rig
About to leave Lough Swilly, our anchorage after Tory Island, we discovered a serious water leak from the engine which delayed our
departure by a couple of hours. The problem was diagnosed as failure of the internal seal of the fresh water pump, so cooling water was
steadily being pumped into the bilge. We rigged up a makeshift solution – plastic bottle and spare tubing led into the water filler so we could top up frequently from the cockpit with water recycled by bucket from the bilge. With gale force winds forecast to arrive overnight we wanted to make safe harbour at Portrush, where a replacement pump ordered by phone will be delivered in a few days time. The delay caused us to miss-time the tidal gap at Inishtrahull Sound, which boasts the strongest tides on the whole of the Irish coast, and run into some of the stronger evening wind. Consequently it was a hard day’s slog motorsailing at reduced revs under full sail, and topping up the cooling water every ten minutes when the temperature alarm sounded, with one three hour spell seeing no forward progress against the tide between Malin Head and Inishtrahull. We eventually made Portrush at 9.30pm, noticing but not fully able to appreciate the fine sunset.
Tory Island
After a night at Burtonport, entered through a narrow, rocky channel,
where we ate very well at “The Skipper’s Tavern” we set out for Tory
Island – the remotest inhabited island off Ireland. In a few miles we
came across “Napper Tandy”, a ketch drifting in the negligible breeze
with a dead engine but our help was not needed as a local boat was on
its way to assist. The weather was perfect with the hills showing sharp in the cool air before the temperature rose as the sun beat down from a cloudless sky. Tory Island is named from its three distinctive tors, and is the home of “Balor of the blows” – the Celtic god of darkness. The island teems with bird life and the Skipper got a rare sighting of choughs – shiny black cliff-dwelling crows with scarlet legs and beak. As the photo shows, we are nicely tucked in harbour alongside a very similar yacht.
Donegal Bay
Calmer seas prevailed for the long haul across Donegal Bay from Ballyglass to Killybegs. As we left in the early morning we got this photo of a rainbow highlighting the lifeboat. We answered a Coastguard request for a volunteer for a helicopter hi-line exercise (as we experienced off Shetland last year) but they wanted a larger vessel. A group of 8 or 9 very lively dolphins played around us for a spell, but as usual we failed to get a good photo. Killybegs is a major fishing port with many large pelagic trawlers laid up out of season, but we found a quiet spot out of everyone’s way in the harbour. As on the west coast of Scotland, there were many active Spanish trawlers unloading their catches on to huge trucks bound directly for Spain. Now at Teelin, a small, pretty natural anchorage on the north shore of Donegal Bay, we are well placed for the next leg round Rossan Point inside the wonderfully named Rathlin O’Birne Island and up to Aran Island (not to be confused with the Aran Islands of a week ago, off Co. Clare).
Triffids!!
Don’t know what these are, but they could certainly pass muster as triffids. We have seen lots lurking by the roadside ….. waiting to pounce? At Achill Island the cox’n of the lifeboat was very good to us – ferrying us ashore, giving us a lift to the village 5 miles away, and sending a colleague to pick us up as we walked back in the rain. Fortunately it cleared later, giving a fine evening and the opportunity for a walk ashore. Today gave us the best sailing weather and coastal scenery so far. Achill Island has dramatic cliffs backed by sharp grassy ridges leading to prominent hilltops – it looks to be a really good walking area. In places the sea surge was shooting spray 50ft in the air, but sadly no photos – the skipper fully occupied helming in the confused seas, and the mate hanging on!
Islands at Last
After 700 miles the cruising is becoming much more interesting, as we
are among islands and passages between instead of steadily passing
headlands to starboard. We are now getting some shelter from the
continual Atlantic swell, which makes 8 and 9 hour trips quite
physically tiring, but gives a real feel of being at sea when the
immediate horizon is the next big swell. After Inishmore we rounded
Slyne Head and made up the Connemara coast to the island of Inishbofin
for a good overnight anchorage. Then we island-hopped in the mist up
to the S end of Achill Island where, inside a narrow, twisting
entrance, we are in calm water on a visitor’s mooring just off this old stone tower. We have been fascinated by some of the names on the chart – here are just a few from the last couple of days …… Gubbinwee, Inishbiggle, Doonguddle, Inishgalloon and Carrickmoylenacurboga!
Dingle to the Aran Islands
It was a 40 mile trip round the Dingle peninsula to Fenit with little
gained in the way of northing. However the scenery was good – round Slea Head, through Blasket Sound, past Mount Brandon (an Irish ‘Munro’) and into Tralee Bay. Fenit has a fishing harbour and yacht marina (photo) dominated by an imposing statue of St. Brendan the Navigator – a bit over-hyped as a “Heritage Park” as it would fit in your back garden! A 55 mile trip today gave us a fine motorsail, averaging just over 6 kts with still a SW swell, up to the Aran Islands of sweater fame where we turned in to Kilronan on Inishmore. A few miles away the smallest of the three islands – Inisheer – is better known as the “Craggy Island” of Father Ted.
Dingle Dolphin
This is a bronze of Fungie the bottlenose dolphin which has made Dingle Harbour his home for over 20 years, and is a major tourist attraction. He did come out to greet us as we sailed in and eyed us closely, but decided we were not worth one of his spectacular jumps high out of the water. For once the weather forecast has not been an exaggeration and winds have reached force 9 (severe gale) with more of the same today. However showers have been infrequent and it is mostly sunny. Winds are due to moderate greatly overnight but we expect quite a residual swell off the west coast. We enjoyed some live music in a pub last night (uillean pipes, banjo and guitar) and may look in tonight at the pub advertising “mighty sessions nightly”. For anyone thinking of a visit to Cork and Kerry, we recommend Dingle – our most attractive port of call so far.
A Touch of the Irish
We knew there were smoking restrictions in Ireland, but hadn’t realised they extended to herring. So now they are having to catch their kippers at sea – as this packaging shows. We are now in Dingle after a long trip from Bear Island in Bantry Bay, with little to see other than headlands looming out of the mist as we progressed round the coast and across from Valentia. We plan on staying here to await better weather – the 24 hour forecast is for a SW Force 8 gale (and possibly 9!) – but we are tucked into a nice wee marina in a nice wee town so all is well. There are numerous pubs advertising live music so that will be tomorrow night’s entertainment. One pub that caught our eye was Foxy’s Bar and Hardware Store! Yes, there were gantries and beertaps down one side and bins of nuts, bolts and screws down the other, with the punters in the middle. A shop we saw elsewhere offered computer repairs and fishing tackle! (It’ll be ready next week – would you like to go fishing meantime?)
New feature: Where’s Arctica?
You can now track the adventures of Arctica using a map on this site.
Arctica’s position is updated every day or so with GPS information from her navigation system – phone signal permitting!
Watch this space for improvements to the map over the coming weeks!
Mizen Head
Today we rounded Mizen Head, the SW point of Ireland after an extra
night at Crookhaven to let the passing gale blow over. There we had a
Saturday night Murphys at O’Sullivans pub, who declined to take a fee for use of a visitor’s mooring “until June”. As at all our other ports of call, the houses and cottages are all kept neat, tidy and well painted. There is an atmosphere of pride about the place – in contrast to much of the Western Isles of Scotland. We had fine sailing weather today and an excellent sail round Mizen Head, Sheep’s Head and up the length of Bantry Bay to Glengarriff. It is a well sheltered anchorage, protected by islets and skerries and with something of the feel of Balmaha on Loch Lomond – although that has nothing to match the splendid frontage of the Eccles Hotel. Come nightfall we half expect echoes of the Goon Show to waft across the bay!
Crosshaven & Kinsale
We reached Crosshaven for the rendezvous with our crew from London for
the holiday weekend with a day in hand, so we took the opportunity of
visiting Cork for an afternoon. We had shopping to do so we did not have time for tourist attractions, but found it an attractive city. Situated on the River Lee, it shares the distinction with Paris and New York of being founded on an island. Crosshaven is near the mouth of Cork Harbour, on a river with a strong tidal flow. With Finlay and Jeannie, Chris and Maria aboard we moved the short distance round to Kinsale on a day of mirror calm and brilliant sunshine, enjoying the brief company of a pod of dolphins on the way. Kinsale is a very attractive coastal resort and a major centre for yachting. The streets are narrow and colourful, as pictured, and are home to a huge number of pubs and good restaurants. Surprisingly, it lacks a chandlers and we found that the local filling station sells groceries but not engine oil or any motoring requirements!
Limerick
No, not the town at the head of the Shannon estuary but that peculiar
form of verse. On long tricks at the helm the mind can wander (OK…..who said the Skipper’s is always so?) and today, ruminating on
the odd pronunciation of Milngavie, for no apparent reason the idea for a Limerick emerged:
A wandering lass from Milngavie
Emigrated to distant Shanghavie
But lacking the lingo
And missing the bingo
She travelled back home, bavie and bavie.
Or, bringing in an Irish slant:
A trendy young colleen from Youghal (Yawl)
Got dressed up as though for a boughal
Her gown was so highbrow
It raised every eyebrow
At the ceilidh in Cashel church houghal.
It must be something to do with the Guinness!!
The photo is of sunset this evening at Crosshaven, near Cork.
Grumpy Old Man
Nice as are the Irish folk we meet, Ireland must have its share of
grumpy old men and sure now we came across one yesterday at a fishing
port – un-named to protect the guilty! (The photo was taken at Kilmore
Quay – a lovely fishing and leisure harbour). As instructed in the
almanac, we tried calling the harbour before arrival on VHF 16 and 14 without response, so continued on in. While tying up alongside a huge laid-up deep sea trawler the Harbourmaster appeared waving his rule book and calling over about
To The South Coast
We reached the South Coast in two more legs – Howth to Arklow to Kilmore Quay. Lack of wind meant motoring down to Arklow, but we were aided by a 2.5+kts tide and arrived in harbour an hour ahead of schedule. It’s a river harbour and we tied up at the Sailing Club pontoon on the north bank. Hardly half a mile out the next morning our propellor was fouled by a floating line trailing from a lobster pot buoy. The rope cutter did its stuff but we were left trailing 30m of line and the buoy. Unable to free it off from the prop/rudder we had to cut it adrift. The passage down to and round Carnsore Point, the SE extremity of Ireland, was an exercise in buoy hopping in the haze. The coast is lined with offshore banks and shoals and we kept outside all these dangers, which are well marked with navigational buoys. Making west from Carnsore Point, we crossed St Patrick’s Bridge (a narrow, shallow gap in the reef between the Saltee Islands and the shore) and put in to Kilmore Quay, a busy fishing port with a small marina which welcomes visitors.
Kilkeel to Howth
We left Kilkeel Abruptly at 0830 when the dredger crew turned up ready to go out. As we left harbour, there were lovely views astern to the Mourne Mountains – small maybe in Scottish terms but attractive nonetheless. It was a fine day with a quartering Force 4/5 wind so we put a reef in the mainsail and enjoyed a forty mile sail down to Howth, at the NE corner of Dublin Bay. En route we passed the isolated skerry of Rockabill, the green island of Lambay, and the rocky and reef-strewn islet of Ireland’s Eye (derivation not known). Howth harbour is in two parts – a trawler dock and a yacht marina – so we took an overnight berth in the latter, enjoying a snooze in the sunshine after tying up.
Stopped and Searched
After spending a day at Portavogie while strong winds moderated, we
resumed our progress south on a fine day with scarcely a breeze. On
leaving harbour, we saw that we had got within 200m of our landfall in the fog – so near but so far away! We gave a friendly wave to HM Customs cutter “Sentinel” which passed by. Shortly afterwards, her RIB (rigid inflatable boat) raced up from astern with four burly, black-clad heavies aboard – not the sort to be tangled with. However, they were polite and charming as we were boarded, searched and questioned.
Whatever they were looking for they didn’t find, and we were soon left in peace again. We spent the night at Kilkeel, a busy fishing port with a long, narrow entrance leading to a fully sheltered inner basin, where we tied up alongside the harbour dredger at the harbourmaster’s behest. We enjoyed a stroll round the town before dining out in ther cockpit – our first alfresco meal of the season – on a beautiful evening.
Thick Fog
We left Bangor in the afternoon when the wind had moderated and the sun had appeared, and went south through the Donaghadee Sound. Soon a light mist obscured the sun and we were gradually enveloped in a thickening fog. Given confidence from picking up an offshore fairway buoy in the fog after three miles on a compass course, we continued for another four miles. On checking our GPS position, we knew we were very close to Portavogie Harbour but could not make out any shoreline. Then breaking water and surface rocks were sighted close to in shallowing water, and we were not happy. Having only a passage (not detailed) chart we decided there was no case for casting about in such conditions, and got on the VHF to contact a fishing boat which was harbour bound under radar. She directed us out into safe water, steamed up astern, and led us into harbour – the pierhead looming up out of the fog at 100m distance. When the fog thinned, we found this fine fellow standing at the harbour head.
Heading South
It was quite a day going down to Bangor, punching into a Force 7 wind against tide. The passage took five hours when three would have sufficed in normal conditions. Despite the drizzle, we enjoyed views of the low sea cliffs and green fields of the Antrim coastline. Crossing Belfast Lough was particularly rough, and it was good to get into the shelter of the large marina, although our berthing maqnoeuvre was rather inelegant due to the strong crosswind. Bangor is a pleasant, prosperous seaside town with good shops and services.
Landfall NI
We crossed the North Channel to Northern Ireland and put in at the small marina at Glenarm. Unfortunately we had to motor all the way against a SW headwind. On arrival we were welcomed by a cheery attendant who took our lines, details and berthing fee and pointed us in the direction of a lovely forest walk in the glen – one of the Nine Glens of Antrim. Showing us the toilets, which would have been a credit to any West of Scotland harbour, he opined that they were somewhat dated – describing them in his Irish way as being “new for too long”.
Problems, problems
A few unexpected problems with engine recommissioning delayed our launch for the season by a couple of weeks. Frustrating – not because time was critical, but the continuing exceptionally fine weather was giving summer temperatures in early April. At last all was put together again with no bits left over, and off we set from Dumbarton. The first short leg was down to Millport, then on to Campbeltown the next day. There we sat out a day of strong winds when the Sanda ferry was unable to reach the island.
LAPTOP LERGY
Poorly PC
SMS from Skipper:
Laptop kaput, blown ‘fuse’. Can’t get fixed here so will try in Norway.
So, no more offshore blog entries until the Norwegians coax the laptop back to life. Don’t you just love technology? Cross your fingers and watch this space…
MAINLAND – END TO END
Our first day of continuous rain and mist (in six weeks) saw us sailing from Papa Stour up to the beautiful fjord-like Sand Voe at the N tip of the Mainland. Next day we had an exhilarating sail, well reefed down in a Force 6/7, all the way down to Lerwick in gradually brightening weather. Since we got here the weather has been perfect. We met up with Bob and Kate, up from Glasgow to exhibit their vintage motorbike at the Classic Motor Show, and went with them to a ‘Foy’ – a supper ceilidh dance. Today we visited the Show – fascinating – and then took the bus to Sumburgh airport and walked out along the cliff top to Sumburgh Head Lighthouse, the S tip of the Mainland. Tomorrow we set off to visit the islands of Whalsay, Unst and the Out Skerries before returning to Lerwick before our North Sea crossing.
PAPA STOUR
We spent two nights at Vaila Sound (Walls) on the west mainland, yawing about the anchor in a strong gusting northerly. We were unable to get ashore, but anyway Walls seems to be a scattered township rather than a village proper. Today dawned brighter with the promise of less wind so we moved twelve miles north, with the tide but still into the prevailing wind, to Hamnavoe on the SW of Papa Stour. The east side of the island has a rough airstrip, two piers (new RoRo, old concrete) and about ten croft houses. The main attractions are the famed caves, geos, stacks and skerries – Fogla Skerry (outermost in photo) has subterranean passages through it bored by the sea. The ground above the cliffs on the west of the island is tundra-like and the haunt of many skuas.
Scalloway
We tied up alongside the Scalloway Boating Club pontoon and were made very welcome. It was the evening of a sea-fishing competition and a bag of lovely fresh pollack was put aboard for us while we were in the bar. Scalloway is the ancient capital of Shetland but, other than a large harbour and a ruined castle, seems to have little of interest for the visitor – except the little Shetland Bus museum, when open. There are some pleasant walks, though. Next day, we were joined by ‘Ice Maiden’, 49ft go-anywhere steel sloop, sister ship to ‘Maiden’ which raced round the world with Tracy Edwards and an all-women crew some years ago. Ice Maiden has been south to South Georgia and north to Spitsbergen, and we have just realised that Shetland is nearer to the North Pole than South Georgia is to the South Pole. With the strong, cold wind today, we can believe it!
Fair Isle
Fair Isle lies midway between Orkney and Shetland, but is a ‘must see’
destination in its own right, so we spent a few days there enjoying the peace and tranquility, bird life, landscape/seascape and sunshine. As you see, we were berthed in the North Haven next to the island’s lifeline vessel the ‘Good Shepherd’. Fair Isle is Britain’s most isolated inhabited island – population approx. 70 – with life (other than the Bird Observatory) mainly based around traditional crofting supplemented with various craft activities. The coastline is very rugged with geos, cliffs, stacks and skerries all around, with the shoreline easily accessible in only a few places. We enjoyed a slide show on South Georgia at the Observatory last night and this afternoon left for Shetland. We are now in Scalloway and looking forward to exploring the west coast of Shetland before making for Lerwick.
Orkney
We sailed on past Handa, then had a sudden man-overboard drill as the dinghy painter parted. Despite the wind, the dinghy drifted away slower than expected, and we were able to down sail and motor back for it in good style. We spent the night in Kinlochbervie, a pale shadow of a once busy fishing harbour, being the first yacht of the year to call. From there we made the 13 hour passage round Cape Wrath and across to Orkney. Since then we have sunbathed in Stromness, bussed across to Kirkwall, and visited the Scapa Flow anchorages of Houton, St Mary’s, St Margaret’s Hope (photo) and Burray (beside the Churchill Barrier). At St Margaret’s Hope, on South Ronaldsay, we cycled the length and breadth of the island and had a fine dinner at The Creel restaurant, run by Alan Craigie, Scotland’s Restaurant Chef of the Year 2006. Now back in Stromness, we plan to go west-about round the Mainland and into Kirkwall in the face of a deteriorating weather forecast.
ON PAST THE OLD MAN OF STOER
On passage from Tanera Mor (Summer Isles) to Lochan Saile (Badcall) we took Arctica close inshore for this photo of the Old Man of Stoer. It being Saturday we hoped to see climbers, but were disappointed. However, a fixed traverse rope from the shore side remains in place. There is always an extra frisson of excitement on entering an anchorage for the first time, and so it was with Lochan Saile. The approach from Eddrachillis Bay is through a scattering of islands and islets, past narrows with a central reef, then a final turn in to a sheltered pool, well protected by reefs. Here we are enjoying the proximity of red throated divers and greylag geese.
OOPS!
The skipper of a neighbouring yacht, obviously suffering more from cabin fever than we were, took “Judicious” out for an evening spin (or to seek the end of the rainbow over at Kyle?) but took an injudicious course across the old ferry slip and ran aground very publicly. Fortunately, it was around low water and the only damage was his acute embarrassment – he floated off again an hour later. We gave the slip a wide berth on leaving the next morning!
KYLEAKIN
The Mate rejoined ship after a free bus trip up from Glasgow. On a dreich day of mist and rain we bussed to Portree to replenish stores,
and sat out a second day of frequent showers, some of hail. As the photo shows, it is an attractive place to lie, alongside a pontoon under the ruins of Dunollie Castle with Loch Duich and the hills of Kintail to the east.
TORRIDON HILLS
Fine weather, if a bit short of wind, continued as we visited Fladday
south, Acarseid Mor (S Rona), inner Loch Torridon (where the views of
the hills were magnificent) and Shieldaig, returning to Kyleakin by way of a short stop at the inner anchorage of the Crowlin Islands. Cass caught (just) the train back to Inverness after a sprint across the bridge to Kyle of Lochalsh.
SKYE BRIDGE
We sailed up the Sound of Sleat, passing through the Kylerhea narrows with a 5kt flood tide, and out beneath the Skye Bridge (now toll-free)
where the juxtaposition of old and new, the lighthouse on Eilean Bhan
and the soaring bridge above, makes an interesting contrast. At Portree we shopped and Cass visited friends at the local dental practice. Churchtown Bay, Raasay was the next port of call where we picked up a visitors’ mooring. We donned boots and enjoyed a pleasant walk up Dun Caan, the micro Stac Pollaidh which sits atop the island.
BOY’S WEEK
As the Mate departed home to attend to domestic matters, so arrived Cass from Inverness to join Arctica for a week. After overnighting in Oban to let the worst of a southerly gale blow over, we sailed down the Sound of Mull and back to Loch Sunart. Next morning, we went ashore at Loch Borrodale (N side of L Sunart) to visit Cass’ family cottage for its post-winter check up. Unspoiled by over-modernisation, it sits in a lovely spot on the slopes overlooking the loch, with open moor above and mature woodland below. In the afternoon we motored against a headwind out to Ardnamurchan Point, then were frustrated when the wind died away just as we were expecting to enjoy a broad reach up to Arisaig – so it was onwards under the iron sail! Arisaig was as pretty as ever, with a new trot of moorings added this season as its popularity as a summer cruising base increases.
FIRST TIMERS
We were joined by Steve, Sharon and Aishlene as novice crew for a weekend sail out of Dunstaffnage, by Oban. Newcomers to sailing perhaps, but not to having a good time and being great company. They revelled in the force 6/7 gusting 8 which powered us across to the Sound of Mull, scorned the handy bolthole of Loch Aline and shrugged off the rain as we continued to a sheltered anchorage in Loch Sunart. Sunday gave us sunshine and a more moderate wind so we enjoyed a fine sail back to Loch Aline for lunch and a walk ashore, then returned to Dunstaffnage in the evening. Aishlene seemed to enjoy her trip up the mast in the bosun’s chair!
SETTING SAIL
Arctica’s exit from Crinan sea-lock into west coast waters marks the start of our 2006 cruising adventure. While the distant shores of Norway are our goal, there is much interest and enjoyment to be had along our leisurely way via Orkney, Fair Isle and Shetland. Arctica is in good shape, the Skipper and Mate tolerably so, and we set off with high hopes as liveaboards for five months. Our occasional photo-diary will record some of the events, places and impressions as we go. Do not expect a postcard as well! Feel free to post comments or questions to enliven the
blog.
Cloch-ing Off
Passing close under the Cloch Lighthouse at Gourock signalled that Arctica was about to complete the last few miles of her summer cruise – into the River Clyde at Greenock and up to her home port of Bowling. The weather on this long final day was particularly fine, right from leaving Campbeltown in the early morning, through the Kilbrannan Sound and Kyles of Bute and up to Bowling. The cruise lasted sixteen weeks (with a 2-week gap) and covered nearly 1600 nautical miles over the route Clyde – Crinan – Mull – Coll – Barra – Eriskay – South Uist – Benbecula – Scalpay – Stornoway – Loch Laxford – Cape Wrath – Kyle of Tongue – Scrabster – Longhope – Stromness (incl Folk Festival) – Rousay – Eday – Stronsay – Sanday – Westray – Fair Isle – Shetland (Grutness and Hos Voes) – Mousa – Noss – Whalsay – Out Skerries – Fetlar – Unst – Muckle Flugga (the northernmost point of the British Isles) – Yell – Colla Firth – Lerwick – Fair Isle – Westray – Stromness – Kinlochbervie – Lochinver – Summer Isles – Gairloch – Portree – Mallaig – Canna – Arisaig – Oban – Ardinamir – Tayvallich – Islay – Mull of Kintyre – Sanda – Campbeltown – Clyde. Apart from dragging anchor through the kelp at Noss at 3.00 am, the trip passed without incident – and our thoughts are already turning to next summer……… Norway? Faeroes? Round Ireland?
Bowling Harbour Ceilidh Band
Obviously not one of your upstart boy bands – grey hair or lack of it
predominating! The band featured as a fringe event of the Campbeltown Folk Festival and played at the Byron Darnton Tavern on the isle of Sanda over the weekend. We played for a total of sixteen hours over Friday evening to Sunday afternoon and it was a great gig. Due to bad weather, the ferry to take the other four band members off the island
did not turn up so the whole band (plus two other strandees) sailed on Arctica to Campbeltown for linking transport home. Arctica will make an early start tomorrow for the longish trip back to her home port of Bowling, and the end of a very successful cruise.
Folk at Sanda
Arctica is now at Sanda, a small island two miles off the Kintyre coast and thirteen south of Campbeltown as the crow flies. An attractive spot but somewhat exposed to the north-west, from which direction a Force 4/5 is forecast but not expected to last long. This was the tranquil scene last night as the sun set behind the Mull of Kintyre. The island has a pub (plus lighthouse and some self catering – nothing else) called the Byron Darnton, after an American liberty ship wrecked here in wartime, and this is the venue for a Folk weekend. The Bowling Harbour Ceilidh Band is taking part and the Skipper with his moothie is the advance party; Peter, Ken and Alan are being ferried in tonight. The stage is set for a good boys’ weekend!
Heading South
Tayvallich, six miles up Loch Sween from the Sound of Jura, is a completely landlocked anchorage and well worth the detour from the direct route south. The head of the loch splits into three parts, each surrounded by hills and trees; quite a contrast from the almost treeless Northern Isles. A very enjoyable evening was spent here in the company of friends old and new, before moving on again – to Islay. The day was one of continuous rain, a Force 5 on the nose and an uncomfortable cross-sea. For almost twenty miles down the Sound of Jura there was no sight of land or another vessel, until the Calmac ferry to Port Askaig loomed out of the murk and passed astern. I was glad of GPS positioning and a Chart Plotter, and not having to rely on dead reckoning. On cue, Ardmore point appeared close to, and we made in to the Ardmore Islands, a lovely group of islets and skerries offering shelter from the seas outside.
More Visitors
At Ardinamir, a popular anchorage on the east side of Luing, Arctica was visited by these Mute Swans which gobbled up fresh bread offered from outstretched fingers. So far we have fed eider ducks, seagulls and seals…..and hope we don’t end up feeding the fishes! Heading south again tomorrow to Tayvallich for a rendezvous with “Sea Swallow”.
Home Waters
Here we are in Oban, a bonny West Highland town and the gateway for Calmac sailings to Mull and the Hebrides. It looked fine on arrival – the esplanade in bright sunshine and the scene overlooked by McCaig’s Folly on the skyline – but today it is gey dreich, a not uncommon
situation in these parts. After spending so much of the cruise in distant Orkney and Shetland waters this feels much like home waters again, but there is still a fair distance to go, round the Mull of Kintyre and into the Clyde estuary. Now sailing single-handed since the Mate went home from Mallaig with a bad back, and making gradually for Sanda (off the M of K) where there is a folk weekend and the Bowling Harbour Ceilidh Band, of which the Skipper is an occasional member, is appearing. Have written a humorous sea song “The Bowling Belle” for the occasion.
Creatures of the Sea
Today Arctica was visited by this Grey Seal which frequents Mallaig Harbour, and has grown fat through the generosity of the local
fishermen. It obviously expected to be fed but turned up its nose at the
bread offered, which was quickly snapped up by the seagulls. One of them was bold enough to be hand fed. Porpoises were seen on the short passage south to Arisaig, and we nearly ran down a young (15ft) basking shark off the mouth of the South Channel which leads in to Arisaig at the head of Loch na Ceall.
Stranger Still
Early in our trip as we passed through Gunna Sound, the passage between Coll And Tiree, we saw the strange sight of a playful dolphin chasing a Great Northern Diver which was too full of fish to take off. The latter was panic-stricken and attempted unsuccessfully to shake off the dolphin by madly flapping its wings and running across the water, much to our amusement. However, today brought an even stranger sight. On Canna, we came across this rabbit coolly (sorry!) sitting in a burn. What on earth was it doing? Had Mrs Rabbit told him to go cool his ardour? Or was he merely enjoying a paddle? Very strange.
Boats, boats, boats
On this trip we have seen boats of all shapes and sizes – from canoes through rowing boats, ribs, Orkney yoles, Shetland sixareens, lobster
boats, fishing boats, lifeboats, roro ferries, pelagic trawlers and
cruise liners to oil tankers. We’ll likely collect the full set with a
submarine in the Clyde! But today we passed this beautiful restored Dutch barge at the Raasay narrows. What a picture with her gaff rig, tan sails and traditional barge boards. But when it comes to maintenance – I’d stick with the modern ‘plastic’.
The Mountains and The Sea (apologies to Tom Paxton)
The coastline of Wester Ross features large bays with sheltered sea
lochs leading off – but the dominating feature is the dramatic backdrop of mountains. These rise spectacularly from low moorland to give a constantly changing vista as we sail past. Well know and instantly recognisable peaks such as Suilven, Culs Mor and Beag, Stac Pollaidh, An Teallach, and the Carnmore group (which includes a’Mhaighdean – the most remote munro) brought back memories of wonderful hillwalking in this area and reminded of the need to return. The photo shows the Torridon hills from off the mouth of Loch Gairloch as we neared the entrance on a fine summer evening.
The Old Man
Between ports of call Kinlochbervie and Lochinver, we passed the prominent sea stack known as The Old Man of Stoer. Climbers reach its base by traversing a rope slung beween it and the cliff foot. The Skipper failed in an attempt to climb it on a cold Easter day many years ago, but redeemed himself the next day by leading a climb up an
ice-bound gully on Quinag. Other well known sea stacks passed on this
trip have been The Old Man of Hoy and Am Buachaille at Sandwood Bay.
Cape Wrath
We said farewell to the Northern Isles of Shetland, Fair Isle and Orkney and sailed from Stromness to Kinlochbervie on the NW mainland. The day was a mixture of sunny spells and occasional light drizzle, but with a steady NNW Force 4-5 wind to keep us going on the 70 mile passage. Rounding Cape Wrath, the NW extremity of Scotland, gave us some heavy swells but the sea was much flatter for the final 20 miles. A very enjoyable 13 hour sail.
Hamnavoe
Stromness stands on the sheltered bay of Hamnavoe, and the town grew out of crewing, watering and provisioning the Hudson’s Bay Company ships, the Greenland whaling fleet (largely out of Hull) and the herring fishing industry in its heyday. The name /Hamnavoe /is now carried by the P&O RoRo ferry which plies between Stromness and Scrabster (by Thurso), making three return sailings each day. In harbour, it dwarfs the adjacent marina where we are berthed and the three loud blasts on its whistle as it moves astern from the pier never fail to startle us.
Waiting for Wind
After a short visit to the lovely north Orkney isle of Westray, including the customary visit to the Pierowall Hotel for its world (?)
famous fresh haddock and chips, we made down to Stromness – our
departure point for Cape Wrath and the NW coast of Scotland. Winds are
strong and adverse so Arctica is waiting for better conditions for this passage. It is always a pleasure to visit the second town of Orkney with its stone-paved narrow main street, interesting waterfront architecture, and pier busy with mainland ferry, fishing fleet and Scapa Flow dive boats.
Seabirds Galore
Fair Isle lies midway between Orkney and Shetland, and is renowned for the diversity of its bird life – indigenous and migratory. The RSPB Bird Observatory offers dinner, a bar and showers for visiting yachts and, in our case an address at which mail can be collected. Of all the seabirds the puffin is the most endearing, and these chaps are typical – they can be approached to within an few feet.
A Visit from Oscar Charlie
We were off Sumburgh Head, heading for Fair Isle with a following wind and lumpy sea when we were overflown by the Coastguard Rescue Helicopter. The VHF came over “Helicopter Oscar Charlie – request permission to land a winchman aboard as a training exercise”. Of course we were delighted to help and excited at the unexpected activity. We turned close hauled on the port tack and Oscar Charlie slowly closed in – with less downdraught but much more noise than expected. The high-line was lowered and hauled in, then the winchman was lowered and pulled aboard. Too noisy for speech, but thumbs-up were exchanged. All too soon the procedure was reversed and we resumed course for Fair Isle. We appreciated familiarisation with the procedure, but hope never to require the Coastguard’s services for real.
Salmon Fish Supper!
Bad news: had to pay harbour dues at Whalsay. Good news: we were gifted a fantastic 10lb salmon – see photo.
Whalsay Regatta 2005
With the atypical Northerly wind continuing, we decided to go with the flow and had a great sail south west to Whalsay. Unfolded the bikes and set off round the island to see what was what. Discovered that our arrival coincided with the annual island regatta, which opened with a parade of Vikings, brass band and floats – complete with seemingly unnecessary police escort. Later youthful water bomb fights suggested earlier police presence was amusingly well judged. The ice cream van saw inexplicably roaring trade, and at 9.30pm, while Mr Whippy was queueing for the return ferry home, we gave in and had the chilliest 99s on record.
To the Out Skerries and beyond..!
Anchor dragged at midnight so we decided to head down to Lerwick even earlier than planned! Collected Innes off the ferry from Aberdeen then did battle with the northerly wind as we motored north to the Out Skerries. Saw this scallop fishing boat as we arrived – a typical local enterprise. We tied up at pier that featured a heated shower block – joy!
Plenty of Puffins at Noss
Sailed down from Vassa Voe to the island of Noss – drifting en-route as we watched gannets skilfully diving for fish. Anchored in Nesti Voe and set off on foot around the island, hotly pursued by inquisitive seals. Turning a corner, we shook off the seals and stumbled upon a plethora of puffins (what is the correct collective noun for puffins?). We soon realised they were unfazed by our presence and crept closer, spending an exciting half-hour watching and photographing their comical antics. Heading back to the boat, we survived the concerted attack of a squadron of Skuas being overly protective of their young. Early start on the cards for tomorrow as we return to Lerwick to meet Innes off the ferry at 7am…
Welcome to Shetland for J and Fin
Fin and J joined Arctica on Shetland yesterday for a week’s holiday. From balmy London to blustery Lerwick – the clean sea air offsets the appreciable drop in temperature. With the Arctic Circle just 6 degrees further North, being a bit chilly comes as no surprise! The Northerly wind has today eased to Force 5, so we decide it’s worth leaving the shelter of Lerwick harbour to head further up the coast to a more peaceful anchorage. After stocking up on generous quantities of wine and whisky (purely in the interests of warmth 
, we motored North through Cat Firth to Vassa Voe.
Another photo of Arctica
Testing again – this text and photo posted using email via Flickr.
Flickr
This is a test post from 
, a fancy photo sharing thing.
First post – testing, testing, 123…
This is the first post on Arctica’s weblog.
Arctica - 36 foot Westerly Corsair