Tayvallich, six miles up Loch Sween from the Sound of Jura, is a completely landlocked anchorage and well worth the detour from the direct route south. The head of the loch splits into three parts, each surrounded by hills and trees; quite a contrast from the almost treeless Northern Isles. A very enjoyable evening was spent here in the company of friends old and new, before moving on again – to Islay. The day was one of continuous rain, a Force 5 on the nose and an uncomfortable cross-sea. For almost twenty miles down the Sound of Jura there was no sight of land or another vessel, until the Calmac ferry to Port Askaig loomed out of the murk and passed astern. I was glad of GPS positioning and a Chart Plotter, and not having to rely on dead reckoning. On cue, Ardmore point appeared close to, and we made in to the Ardmore Islands, a lovely group of islets and skerries offering shelter from the seas outside.