Arctica Cruising Blog

Back at Sandpoint, Dumbarton ready for lift out at the end of our four month trip.

In busy Lochranza anchorage tonight – destination Dumbarton tomorrow.

Now waiting at Port Ellen for favourable conditions to round the Mull of Kintyre. The forecast for tomorrow is not promising.

Sound of MUll from Beinn a’ Ghraig

The fine but largely windless weather continued as we visited anchorages at Loch na Keal (Scarisdale), Erraid (Tinker’s Hole) and S Mull (Carsaig) enjoying good hillwalking. The settled conditions allowed us to visit the W of Jura for the convenient ascent of Ben Garrisdale. The holding was not good in the rounded stones typical of the local raised beaches, and an overnight stay would be inadvisable. We sped through the Corryvreckan Sound on the strong ebb tide, continuing through the Dorus Mor and up Loch Shuna to Melfort. This little area has been developed as a holiday/timeshare/resort – well done using many existing buildings, neat and tidy, but with rather too many do/don’t signs although not without some charm. Our stroll from the pier took us past the ‘Shower of Herring’ pub/restaurant where we were tempted to eat out on the verandah on beautiful evening. After the next day’s hill a short trip took us to the sailing centre of Ardfern, where we had the use of friend Willie’s vacant mooring. We then had a near perfect sail down the Sound of Jura in an easterly breeze, which gradually increased to a NE6 as we rounded into Loch Sween. Off the large and busy caravan site at Castle Sween small boats were having difficulties in the now Force 7 gusting 8. We went over to check on a constantly capsizing dinghy sailor but he was winning back to shore without help; then three boys in a rowing boat waved for assistance. By the time we got sails down and motored back they had given up rowing and were blown ashore on the opposite side of the loch. We made a few passes as close as we dared in the shallow water of a lee shore, but they were in no danger and appeared unwilling or unable to row out to us to be taken off. However, a rib soon came over from the campsite and we left him in charge of the situation. We plugged on up the loch into the weather and eventually turned in to well sheltered Tayvallich Bay through the narrow gap in its protecting reef. Here we met ‘Mara’ and spent a pleasant afternoon in the company of Helen and John.

Glendebadel Bay, W Jura

Temporary anchorage at Glendebadel Bay on W coast of Jura, below Ben Garrisdale.

Anchored at Scarisdale Rocks, Loch na Keal, West Mull.

Rainbow – Loch Carron

Rum – Late Evening

Full Moon – Arisaig

After our break we picked up /Arctica/ at Portree and returned to Plockton to await the arrival of Bob and Hilary, who joined us for a day – lunch at Poll Domhain south of Applecross, and dinner back on the mooring. /Rebecca/ arrived that evening, allowing us a chat with Ken before we left next morning. On a beautiful sunny day we started south – through Loch Alsh and Kylerhea into the Sound of Sleat – overnighting at Isle Ornsay before continuing to Arisaig, with its tortuous but well marked entrance channel. While waiting for Innes and his friend Jim from London to join us for the weekend, the Skipper had a grand day on the hills south of Loch Morar while the Mate took a bus trip to Fort William. As time was short, we did as much in the weekend as possible – sadly no sailing breeze, but continuous sunshine. After a night at Loch Scavaig in the shadow of the southern Cuillin we visited off-lying Soay, where there are the remains of the shore factory of the basking shark fishery operated in the early 1950′s by Tex Geddes, who had previously been with Gavin Maxwell on his original venture, which used a converted steam drifter as a factory ship. That night was spent at Loch Scresort, Rum where we dined at Kinloch Castle in celebration of Innes’ recent birthday. Today we continued south from Arisaig, making the six hour trip down to Loch Cragaig, Ulva with plans to spend a few days on the west coast of Mull. Hopes of some real sailing are not high as only a very light breeze is expected for the rest of the week.

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Arctica was at Loch Scresort, Rum overnight 4/5 Aug 12.

In Crowlin Anchorage

The Quiraing from Bioda Buidhe

On a quiet afternoon we went through the Strome Narrows and in to upper Loch Carron with two objectives – to see the dolphins and climb a couple of hills – but succeeded in neither. The dolphins which entertained us so well on our last visit did not show up this time, and the approach to the hills from that side would have involved slogging up through deep, dense and wet bracken without adequate outerwear. We retreated and went over to the Crowlin Islands to spend the night in the beautifully sheltered narrow anchorage between the islands. We then continued across to Skye, meeting a large group of dolphins off Raasay. They played round the bow and criss-crossed below us for a time, then were suddenly gone but remained visible in small numbers throughout the Sound. We moored up in Portree as a base for a few days, and Arctica will now remain there for a week while the Mate visits London and the Skipper bags a few more hills.

Cuillins from Carbost

Sunset – Carbost

Pontoons at Mallaig

We found that there is a bus service at Carbost, despite information to the contrary on the Stagecoach website, so the Mate was able to take local walks and a trip to Portree while the Skipper was on the hills. A group of other yachts came in, all flying their large Malts Cruise flag, and looked well against the colourful sunset. A fine morning saw us starting early out of Loch Harport, down the Skye coast then across to the Point of Sleat and Mallaig, where we wanted to sample the new pontoons. Verdict – too expensive, no toilets or showers (yet! – but we’ve heard that line before), and exposed to swell from the north. We spent a bumpy night alongside, but then were offered a discount on the normal rate. We motored north into the persistent wind from that direction, timing our arrival at the Kylerhea narrows to catch the young flood tide. Continuing through Loch Alsh and under the Skye Bridge, we made for Plockton, where Seol na Mara was resting at anchor out in the bay. It was the Sailing Club Gala Day with much activity in the village, including a visit from the Kyle Lifeboat.

Approaching Neist Point

Macleod’s Maidens, off Idrigill Point

An early rise saw the Skipper off up Ben Geary before 0800, but at that hour the morning mist still clung to the summit, obscuring what should have been a fine view. Back at the boat and stowing away the oars, the temporary hitch on the dinghy painter proved to be just that, and the dinghy took off out to sea in the strong breeze. We had a lot of chain out but raised the anchor as fast as we could, by which time the dinghy was half a mile out and no longer visible – but it was recovered without difficulty. After that sudden start we continued round to Dunvegan where we moored in good shelter. The afternoon was clear and sunny, allowing another hill to be ‘ticked off’. We sat out two days of N5-7 then left in moderate conditions, enjoying a good sail south round Neist Point (with its lighthouse) and Idrigill Point (with Macleod’s Maidens) and into NW Loch Bracadale, anchoring overnight in Loch Bharcasaig. We are now at Carbost, Loch Harport, where there is Talisker Distillery, pub, PO and shop but sadly no bus service during school holidays. Time to get out the bikes?

Scalpay Sunset

We spent a night in Scalpay North Harbour – the beautiful still evening giving a lilac sunset. Today we crossed the Minch to Loch Bay, Skye, running into a thick fog which obscured everything until thinning just before our landfall. The wind suddenly died so we fished briefly, the Mate catching mackerel to try out her new fish smoker. The wind rose again as we anchored in Ardmore Bay and was soon blowing F6 gusting 7 but from a safe NE direction, and the sun shone. It has now been blowing for seven hours so our anchor is well dug in. We judged it unwise to venture ashore in the dinghy, so have been catching up on our reading.

Grey Seals

Thrift

Back in Lochinver, we had a visit for a couple of days from Euan &  Morag and Jim & Linda.  As ever, it was a great reunion with much  merriment. A powercut following a fierce thunderstorm thwarted plans  for dinner at the Mission, but we found that the Pie Shop & Restaurant  had a gas grill and could serve us delicious steaks. After crossing  the Minch to Stornoway we met up with Ken & Isabel, and found that we  had just missed John & Helen on their boat by a day. After a quiet  Sunday – Lewis is closed on the Sabbath! – the bus pass was flashed  for a trip to climb the final Marilyn of the Outer Hebrides (excepting  St Kilda’s stacks, which are a different kettle of fish). In the  evening Peter and Angus came in on Seol na Mara, so we played a few  tunes together after dinner. The pontoons are full as the intended  marina extension has not materialised, although the necessary harbour  dredging has been done – maybe next year?? At least diesel is  available again from the pier, unlike on our last visit.

Fulmar

Lichen & Thrift

Hoy Head

We set off from North Ronaldsay for Fair Isle but soon found ourselves in rough seas and making slow progress into a strong NE wind. Our patience finally cracked after weeks of such conditions so we turned around, temporarily abandoning thoughts of Shetland. After a day at Pierowall, Westray (a favourite place) we had the wind with us to head south to Stromness, then Kinlochbervie. A close encounter near Cape Wrath with a large coaster which ignored the collision regulations relating to an overtaking vessel gave some excitement to that lengthy trip. We are now safely down in Lochinver, where Arctica will lie for a spell while we catch up on things at home.

Standing Stones of Stenness

Whalebone Sculpture

We spent a week in Kirkwall marina, using it as a base for exploring the Mainland and southern isles, both by bus and hired car. The wind continued to blow steady and cold from the NE with occasional showers, making the prospect of sailing to the northern isles unattractive for Innes and Janice – city folk not used to the motion of a yacht. Around the town, visiting the cathedral, museum, library, bookshops and supermarkets kept us all occupied. We also had a lengthy fruitless search for a new deck plug for the masthead lights which, despite pre-launch checking, were refusing to work. A temporary repair has now been effected. On Sunday night we had dinner and a very enjoyable evening at the home of friends Ann and Ken, who now live in Kirkwall. It was good to get on the move again as we left the marina early this morning and set course for North Ronaldsay – our first visit to the island, the most northerly in Orkney. There is good anchorage on sand off the pier, but the bay is subject to a constant swell, which is a bit tiresome.

Mute Swan’sNest

Login’s Well, Stromness

Stromness Harbour

We crossed to the east side of Scapa Flow and briefly looked in to St Margaret’s Hope, the Orkney terminal of the John o’ Groats high speed ferry. Although the village is attractive, the anchorage is less so, being very shallow and requiring lying a fair way off it. Burray has a well sheltered bay close to one of the Churchill Barriers. There is a good walk round to Hunda Sound and back by the Ayre, where swans are nesting. St Mary’s Bay gave another nice anchorage once we got the anchor to set in the gravelly bottom. We spent two nights in the welcoming Stromness marina. The town was very busy with the Folk Festival, with virtually all events sold out, but there was a good afternoon session outside the Ferry Inn. The excellent little museum has lots of interest regarding the whaling trade, the Hudson’s Bay Co and John Rae, the under-recognised Arctic explorer, discoverer of the final link in the North West passage and the fate of the lost Franklin Expedition. We are now in Kirkwall, looking forward to the arrival of Innes and Janice for a short holiday with us.

Longhope Lifeboat Museum

Robin of Longhope

It was a relief to get away from the din in Scrabster harbour. Yachts are apparently tolerated rather than welcomed – in a virtually empty fish dock we and another yacht were instructed to raft up together immediately astern of a rather dilapidated fishing boat, whose engine hammered away constantly during our stay. There are also extensive development works underway, including dredging at the harbour entrance with a huge grab crane dumping spoil into hopper barges round the clock. After clearing Dunnet Head we could see a fog bank in the east of the Pentland Firth, but this dispersed over Scapa Flow before our arrival at Longhope, where we tied up in the corner of the small harbour. The lush greens of Orkney glowed in the hot sunshine, which prompted the first venture into shorts this trip. Longhope is on South Walls, which was an island until joined to Hoy by a causeway separating Aith Hope and Long Hope. This afternoon we walked the seven miles to Lyness, an abandoned wartime naval base, and took the the ‘last’ ferry back. This involved return trips to Houton on the Mainland (of Orkney) and Flotta (with massive oil terminal) before the ferry returned to its overnight berth at Longhope. We certainly got our money’s worth!

Old Man of Stoer

Foinaven from Kinlochbervie

Cape Wrath

After the break, we returned to Lochinver by a long but enjoyable bus journey via Inverness and Ullapool. The sun shone, the hills stood out sharp against a blue sky and the scenery was magnificent. An early start saw us up past Stoer Head and Handa and into Kinlochbervie by early afternoon. Later we had a chance encounter with Elaine and Mark, who had kayaked up from Handa. They are great adventurers, and the Skipper knew Elaine from the Everest trek in Nepal four years ago. We enjoyed their company over a drink and blether in the cockpit in warm evening sunshine. The following day we rounded Cape Wrath, passing Sandwood Bay with its sea stack Am Buachaille, and close under the lighthouse on the Cape. It is one of the main turning points on the West Coast along with the Mull of Kintyre and Ardnamurchan Point. We had intended stopping at Talmine at the mouth of the Kyle of Tongue, but the fine weather induced us to continue to Scrabster, ready for a short crossing to Scapa Flow in Orkney.

Low Water – Strath, Gairloch

Coigach Hills

On a bright morning, with heavy frost covering the deck, we left Loch Shell to cross the Minch to Gairloch – an uneventful trip apart from sighting a minke whale. We tied up at the Flowerdale pontoon and walked along to Strath, visiting the excellent book/coffee shop. A walk up Flowerdale to the waterfall – reduced to a trickle after weeks of dry weather – sharpened the appetite for dinner at The Old Inn. Before leaving Gairloch we discovered that the spare diesel drums had not been filled before leaving Dumbarton, so what was left in the tank would probably be enough to just get us to Lochinver, but without any margin for safety. With the harbour now unmanned we had to make a sortie to the filling station to buy road fuel – and at a price! It was a long, lumpy trip up to Lochinver against a swell kicked up by the persistent northerlies but we got there in late afternoon – the first visitors of 2012 to the pontoons. There will now be a break in blogging while we go home for two weeks to pursue other activities.

The Shiants

Summer Hailstones!

After spending a night at Loch Maaruig, off Loch Seaforth, we went up the latter as far as navigable to climb Guainemol and Muithabhal. Back aboard, we were suddenly closely overflown by a tight group of vintage aeroplanes, three from WWII and a WW1 biplane. In response to our waves we got a waggle of wings and a burst of coloured smoke. That night was spent behind Eilean Hingerstay in Loch Claidh. Today, in beautiful weather, we went further north, passing the Shiants on the way to Loch Shell, where we met an extended wintery shower. Back in sunshine, we dropped the hook in Tob Eisken – a nice spot with with well-maintained lodge, grounds, estate houses and cottages. Short wintery showers persisted, but did not prevent the ascent of Feirihisval. During dinner a sudden blatter of large hailstones allowed a wintery photo to contrast with the morning’s summery one. We will not go up to Stornoway on this occasion, as the inner harbour is closed for dredging, and will probably cross the Minch to Wester Ross from here.

Primroses

In continuing excellent weather we returned through the Sound of Harris to the east coast by way of the Stanton Channel off Leverburgh – much more straightforward than the Cope Passage. Off Loch Finsbay we saw a lifeboat inshore of us, and later learned it was taking up station at Leverburgh that day, welcomed by much local celebration. We anchored in sheltered Scalpay north harbour in mid-afternoon and basked in the cockpit as the temperature rose to reach 86F at 7pm! We then had a surprise visitor – friend Angus from home (of musical and sailing connections) who was staying with relatives in the village, and took us to visit them. Another surprise awaited us next morning in Tarbert as we transferred on to the bus for Stornoway. We bumped into lifelong hillwalking friend Andrew, who was returning to Inverness from a visit to Harris and a trip out to St Kilda. In the evening we had Chrissie (nursing friend of the Mate) and Bob aboard for a drink. They divide their time between houses in Glasgow and Scalpay.

Loch Tamanavay

Tahaval from the bealach

We passed westwards through the twisting Cope Passage of the Sound of Harris, finding all the buoyage missing from half way through – not sure whether the change is temporary or if an alternative route has been buoyed instead. We were well prepared, with the full route already set up on the chart plotter. After rounding Toe Head we passed Taransay then through Caolas Scarp – only 5ft clearance at HW Neaps. We anchored at the head of Loch Tamanavay (english corruption of gaelic corruption of original norse) where the Skipper nipped up Griomaval 1631ft before dinner. There followed a big day, climbing Cracaval, Mealisval and Tahaval under a hot sun, but rewarded by great views all round. Bare rock abounds with intervening springy turf and moss, tussocky lower down but thankfully not much heather.

Castlebay

Stulaval from Arnaval

Gale force winds kept us in Castlebay for two days before we could continue north to Lochboisdale, South Uist. Our departure was preceded by one of the “wintery showers” of the forecast – a squall bringing sleet, hail and some swirling snowflakes. Despite the cold breeze and a head sea the trip was pleasant – returning sunshine makes such a difference to everything. We bussed to the Co-op at Daliburgh and walked the few miles back. The next day was very fine – sunshine and blue skies, although the light breeze was still rather chilly. We caught the mid-morning bus for Lochmaddy, North Uist – the Mate continuing there while the Skipper alighted at Mingarry, from where a rough track leads on to the peaty moors. The ascent of Arnaval and Stulaval and return across the moors to Lochboisdale made a good 5 hour outing. We are now at Lochmaddy, North Uist basking in warm sunshine, and planning to visit the west coast of Lewis while good weather holds.

Barra Airport

Loch Skipport, South Uist

Approaching Barra Airstrip

For more than forty years we have hoped to experience one day a flight to Barra, landing on the extensive sands of the Traigh Mor at the airstrip. If the plane has spare seats a sightseeing return to Benbecula is possible, and today our presence, seat availability and ideal conditions combined to make the trip a reality. The flight is short, about 20 minutes, but gives stunning views of the coast, beaches, lochs and hills of Eriskay, South Uist and Benbecula. Many anchorages and hills previously visited gave fascinating views from an unusual perspective. On the return flight we had the 19 seater plane to ourselves! Our timing was perfect, as today the northerly wind is getting up to gale force and we are reluctant to go ashore in case of difficulty returning aboard. We are happy to take it easy and catch up on some reading.

Castlebay Pier

Kisimul Castle, Barra

We carried on down the Sound of Mull passing multi-coloured Tobermory then turning SW at Ardmore Point for the crossing of the Sound of Tiree to Coll. At Arinagour we anchored off the stone beacon before the old pier as depth allowed – the only boat in the anchorage. There were a few spots of rain at intervals throughout the afternoon – but not enough to hamper the making of a new dinghy seat to replace the old one which collapsed at Oban, and repairing the boathook which got broken at Sanda. There’s aye something…….!! Today we went through Gunna Sound between Coll and Tiree and out into the Sea of the Hebrides. At last we had a sailing breeze which gave us a sparkling sail across to Castlebay, Barra. We have a lovely position in the bay with the village, pier, castle and Vatersay affording good views all round.

Looking North from Cruach Scarba

Sunset, Puilladobhrain

The next ploy was to climb Cruach Scarba, separated from Jura by the Corryvreckan Whirlpool, which can be a dangerous place in the wrong wind/sea conditions. We anchored out of the tide race in a little bay at the SE end of Scarba, from where the ascent was easy, if rather undulating. The summit views were magnificent, especially north over the Black Isles, Luing, Seil and Kerrera. We carried on north through the Sound of Luing to spend the night at Puilladobhrain (otter’s pool – but no otter!), where we viewed a dramatic sunset. The next port of call was Oban for shopping, fuel and gas before making into the Sound of Mull for Loch Aline and a berth at the new pontoons. It’s a nice little marina which next season will have shore facilities. On a quiet evening, it is hard to imagine the hurricane conditions we survived here last year!

Old Pier, Loch na Cille

Kinuachdrach Harbour

In continuing fine weather we headed north from Port Ellen, past the Ardmore Islands and the Sound of Islay, where a warship crossed ahead of us. There is a major multinational joint services exercise in the area for two weeks, training for a combined response to a potential terrorist threat. We anchored at Lagg Bay for a visit to Cnoc an Ime, a fine little hill just south of the half-mile wide narrow neck of the island. The night was spent at Loch na Cille on the mainland shore of the Sound of Jura. Another fine morning saw us head for Kinuachdrach Harbour at the NE of Jura, from where Cruach na Seilcheig was climbed, giving good views of the Corryvreckan with its Great Race and the “cool high bens” of Mull. The two hills have similarities in being almost identical in height and having their trig point on the wrong top – both out by half a mile. Having lost the flood tide, we crossed through the Dorus Mor to anchor off Goat Island in Loch Craignish. All is peaceful apart from the honking of four pairs of Canada Geese.

Sanda

At Port Ellen

It was a calm, bright morning as we left Sanda with the start of the west and north going tidal stream, which we carried all the way up to Port Ellen, reaching there at lunchtime. As forecast, the SE wind gradually got up during the afternoon and was soon pressing Arctica hard against the pontoon.We fixed extra warps to hold her off and lay more comfortably thereafter. It was bitterly cold in the wind, but we enjoyed the protection of the cockpit cover, from which we could survey the scene in comfort. The strong wind moderated overnight but still had a bite to it in the morning, and the radio gave news of snow at Drumochter. We took the post bus to Bowmore where we browsed the shops and had a pleasant stroll round in the fine conditions. There is a small marina but it looks too shallow for yachts, and its scanty breakwater largely cosmetic.

Approaching Cloch Light

Arran Hills

Arctica’s Summer Cruise 2012 got underway as we left Dumbarton on a sparkling bright morning under a clear blue sky. It was cold on the water, with late patches of snow on the hills and good cover on Ben Lomond. With very calm conditions we settled down to motor south, enjoying the fabulous views of sea and hills, especially the Arran hills. The inshore waters forecast suggested a good W/SW wind tomorrow, ideal for rounding the Mull of Kintyre and making north for Port Ellen, Islay. So we made the 58nm trip down to Sanda, the nearest anchorage to the Mull, anchoring off the stone jetty at 1900. Tired after a long day, we did not venture ashore after our meal, although lights appeared in the pub as darkness fell.

Iceberg

Sea Fog Forming

After our mishap, the summer all too quickly passed with the Mate’s regular hospital and physiotherapy appointments. Her hand was deemed too vulnerable to risk any further damage this season so further sailing was ruled out, and the Skipper climbed a few more hills while Arctica lay on a mooring at Dunstaffnage. We joined friends Mike and Anne aboard Fred Olsen Lines’ MS Boudicca on a cruise from Rosyth to the Faroes, Greenland and Iceland, all places high up in our ‘to do’ list. It was a wonderful trip and completely revised our previous sceptical view of the attractions of such cruises. The weather was amazingly good, the ship recently refurbished and of traditional lines (not a floating block of flats), the food excellent, with a cheery crew and good talks and evening entertainment. The Skipper even got to perform a few tunes on the moothie to an audience of hundreds at the guest talent show! The trip was a fitting consolation for missing out on our planned trip to the outer Hebrides and Northern Isles, with the associated visit of the Tall Ships. Arctica is now laid up ashore for the winter ready for the repair of the cosmetic damage to her hull, and we look forward to a less eventful season of sailing next year.

The Mate has had an operation and the broken finger has had metalwork inserted – not sure if this is permanent or to be removed later. Arctica has been moved to Dunstaffnage Marina, where the Skipper will be replacing guardrail stanchions damaged in her stormy adventure. We will be home-based until after Fin’s wedding but hope to be able to resume sailing in July..

 

 

We had a couple of days notice of the impending storm, but no idea of its savagery. Loch Aline seemed a good, safe option – Tobermory too crowded, and Loch Drumbuy lacking VHF, phone or internet signal. We snugged down on a mooring and waited for the storm to pass. As the wind steadily rose through Force 8 (gale), 9 (strong gale) and 10 (storm) we took photos of the wind speed readout. Just after a gust of 58.1 knots (68 mph) the mooring parted and we leaped into action to prevent being quickly driven ashore. It is difficult to adequately describe the conditions – wind at steady violent storm Force 11 (70 mph+) with higher gusts, crashing waves, sea surface white with foam, little visibility, sheets of spray and lashing rain – the boat driven on to her beam ends with gunwales awash, despite full engine revs scarcely able to make any headway, driven from side to side of the loch in defiance of full steering lock. It took well over an hour to claw upwind the short mile to reach moorings in what would normally be a more sheltered corner of the loch – but not today. A fishing boat pointed out a mooring astern of them, but steering an accurate course to the pick-up buoy was nearly impossible in the conditions. After eight or nine unsuccessful approaches Maggie, on her knees, managed to get it aboard but  it was wrenched from her  hand, which was damaged in the process. On the next pick-up she was unable to secure it to anything with only one hand, but  lay down on it and that was all that kept us from being swept away again. We were only held by the light pick-up line which was chafing and would not hold for long. Unable to reach the mooring rope or haul a six ton boat against wind and sea, we radioed the fishing boat and asked them to buoy a line and float it downwind to us – it might allow us to winch or be winched forward to reach the mooring rope. Unfortunately it was blown out of reach but a brave scallop diver swam down the line and attached it to one thrown from our bow. He scrambled aboard and took control on the foredeck as we were both soaked, frozen and exhausted. Eventually we were secured to the massive mooring hawser of a 70ft fishing boat. After applying an icepack and sling to Maggie’s left hand, which was obviously damaged with a dislocated fracture of at least one finger, the diver called the Coastguard for medical assistance. The hand was hugely swollen, turning blue and in need of urgent treatment. The call was heard by the Lochaline-Fishnish ferry sheltering at the pier, and they launched their rescue RIB to evacuate us. They had great difficulty approaching the plunging, rolling yacht but we eventually jumped in and were landed ashore with the RIB now half full of water, and handed over to the mobile Coastguard, who drove us to the doctor’s surgery in Lochaline. Without electricity due to the storm, the doctor had neither power, light nor heat and did not have a ring cutter – by this time there was a distinct risk of Maggie losing a finger if her wedding ring could not be removed. The Coastguard returned with a huge pair of bolt cutters with which the ring was removed, relieving pressure on the finger and allowing circulation to resume. Normally a helicopter would have been called to take us to hospital, but conditions ruled that out. The ambulance, which had a lengthy journey getting to us as the Corran Ferry was off and the Loch Eil road was blocked, took us to the Belford Hospital in Fort William, via the ferry which had fortunately resumed service. There the A&E team were ready, and quickly X-rayed, splinted and bound the hand, but could do no more as they are not equipped for orthopaedic surgery, which at that stage looked inevitable. After an overnight stay arrangements were made for handing over to the Western Infirmary in Glasgow, and we were able to return home on the evening bus. Following more X-rays and examination by the A&E consultant and an orthopaedic registrar, the hand specialist reserved opinion on treatment and will see Maggie next week when the swelling has gone. In the meantime, we have been back to Loch Aline to sort out the mess inside the boat, remove wet clothes and leave her properly closed down. Fortunately the mooring is not required at present and the owner is happy for us to have the use of it until we arrange to move the boat to a marina and attend to some minor repairs. So………a bit of a blow, both literally and to Maggie and our sailing plans for the summer.

At Ardoran

Port Ramsay, Lismore

Once back aboard, we had to wait a further day for reasonable sailing conditions. From Loch Feochan we sailed with a following wind up Kerrera Sound, through Oban Bay and north to Lismore, where we anchored at Port Ramsay. We had difficulty getting the anchor to set properly, but succeeded at the fourth attempt. Later in the afternoon we were joined by Tekoa (a fellow Westerly) with skipper Jane, crew Iain and French guests Michel and Helene. A welcoming drink on Arctica was followed later by an after dinner ceilidh on Tekoa with some pipe and moothie music, french songs and Iain’s recitation of Tam o’Shanter. Today we motored south to the Sound of Mull into the teeth of a strong wind, but made better progress in the sound to Loch Aline, where we took up a vacant mooring. Since arrival the wind has been gusting violently to Gale Force 8 with accompanying squally showers. Too much weather, and only a month to Midsummer Day!

The Arctica crew are taking shore leave for a week, but will be back aboard on Monday 16 May. Arctica is at Ardoran Marine in Loch Feochan, a few miles south of Oban. Getting in is interesting, with a narrow, shallow and tortuous passage between drying banks and the shore, but well defined by port and starboard markers. We were amused by the sign at Rathlin – Irish delusions of prettiness, or a cockney signwriter? More blogging in a week’s time.

Shelduck

Lochs Craignish and Crinan

We were very sorry to learn that our good friends on Seol na Mara had struck a rock outside Lagavulin, and that the boat was ashore there for inspection and repair. The existence of a GRP boatbuilder there seems to have been a well kept secret – but extremely handy in the circumstances. Our own passage north from Islay was exciting, with a quartering Force 6/7 wind and favourable tide, speeding us over the 40 miles to Crinan. We anchored off the sea lock, but the anchor picked up a huge mass of kelp and dragged. After clearing it we settled for the easy option of a mooring, which gave us better shelter. Before leaving the next day there was time for the Skipper to climb a hill and the Mate to walk along the canal to Bellanoch. The short trip up to Puilladobhrain (Otter’s Pool) took 3 hours with a following wind gusting to 35 knots – just touching gale force. The anchorage is beautifully sheltered, the sun is shining but the strong wind continues.

Rathlin Harbour

West Lighthouse, Rathlin

Rathlin is a beautiful island, well served by ferries from Ballycastle and well worth the short trip by anyone visiting north Antrim. An enquiry at the Visitor Centre established that Bruce’s Cave (of spider fame) is only accessible from the sea in a small boat in calm conditions, so we walked out to the East Lighthouse instead. This is a conventional tower, in contrast to the West Lighthouse, which is built into the cliffs with the light on a platform at its base – hence the nickname ‘upside-down lighthouse’. We met some lovely people from a 50 strong party on an outing of the Irish Dental Association, who had at one time made the trip home from St Kilda in a fast RIB in under 7 hours! Then it was back to sea for the trip across the North Channel to Islay, and a mooring at Port Ellen. We were rocked to sleep by the constant motion due to the bay’s SE exposure.

Mallard

Glenarm Marina

A fair tide and wind carried us up the coast to the quiet little town of Glenarm, with its neat little marina. We had time in the morning for a walk up the glen, through woods luxuriantly carpeted with bluebells and wild garlic, to a nature reserve – but found it reserved for members only. We left in late afternoon and were whisked north by a very strong tide and a following Force 6 wind. At one point we registered a speed of 11.3 knots! In three hours we were at Rathlin, tied up alongside the pontoon, well sheltered by breakwaters.

Music & Guiness Pub – Portaferry

Portaferry – Strangford Lough

Strangford Lough is beautiful and our few days there were spent in glorious weather, although the easterly wind got up at times. The surrounding countryside is low, green and rolling but there is a distant view of the Mountains of Mourne (sweeping down to the sea, of course!). The sailing directions warn of potential danger on leaving the lough with an onshore wind against outgoing tide, but there was no sign of a change in the continuing easterly. We went to Portaferry at the head of the narrows and consulted the harbourmaster for local advice as the sailing directions and cruising almanac offer differing advice as to timing an exit. When we left next morning, we found no difficulty, but the seas were confused for a couple of miles off the entrance. The SE 4/5 occasionally 6 gave us a fine sail up the coast, through the Copeland Pass and into Belfast Lough, where we paid a return visit to Bangor with its welcome facilities of showers, supermarket and diesel supply.

Still without a sailing wind, but with a surprisingly lumpy swell, we crossed back to the east coast of Ireland, and spent a night at the snug little marina at Ardglass. The harbour is beautiful but the town itself has little to offer unless its many small pubs are of interest. Timing our departure carefully, we reached the entrance to Strangford Lough at slack water, so avoiding the potential overfalls outside and tide in the narrows which can run at up to 7 knots. Once inside the lough we continued round to the SW end and moored off Quoile Yacht Club, in a quiet and pretty spot which induced us to be lazy for the rest of the day.

‘Lady Isabella’ – The Great Laxey Wheel

Fin & J treated us to another day’s car hire – a sporty wee Nissan Micra Convertible – and the two sports cars (theirs a proper one) toured in open-top company round Onchan, Laxey and Ramsey. We visited the famous Great Wheel at Laxey, water driven as IOM had no coal for steam engines, which provided power to lift buckets of zinc ore to the surface, and latterly also to transport miners up and down the 1500ft main shaft, otherwise a long and dangerous climb on ladders. On our last day we returned to Douglas to potter round the town and visit the Manx Museum, while Fin & J drove round the TT Mountain Course. We found the Isle of Man a very attractive place and really enjoyed our week’s visit.

Inner Harbour, Peel

Snaefell Mountain Train

After a big shopping in Douglas, the Skipper picked up a hired car for the day and set off round the IOM’s five Marilyns – Snaefell, Slieau Freoghane, South Barrule , Mull Hill and Bradda Hill. The morning of Fin & J’s arrival on the Liverpool ferry was wet (the first rain in a fortnight) but good weather then returned for the rest of our visit. Peel was busy over Easter weekend, with boat trips, a re-enactment at the castle and hill and road races. One afternoon the Skipper stood on a knoll above the harbour for a while, watching the swing bridge open and boats come and go, and was apparently dubbed ‘Statue Man’ by the crowd below. It was a surprise to be accosted by a group of young women demanding to be photographed with ‘Statue Man’!

Three Legs of Man

Inner Harbour, Peel

An easy crossing of the Irish Sea took us to the Isle of Man at its only west coast harbour – Peel. At high water, and with the footbridge at the mouth of the inner harbour open due to repairs, we were able to go straight in and take a pontoon berth. The inner harbour is prevented from drying out by a flapgate, which is raised as the tide falls and lowered as it rises, allowing entry during a four hour window round the time of high water. At low water it is possible to walk seaward from the flapgate for 100 metres without getting wet feet! Peel is a very attractive small town, the town centre just above the harbour having narrow streets and lanes, with tightly packed old houses painted in many colours. The three-legged Manx symbol is everywhere – on buildings, street furniture, signs and flags – all adding to the feeling of being somewhere different. A visit by bus to Douglas confirmed its city atmosphere and crowds, and a much less attractive or relaxing harbour, so we have decided to remain at Peel for the duration of our visit to IOM.

Out with the Old

In with the New

The last few days had seen us baling out a couple of bucketfuls of water from the engine bilge each day. Tasting proved it was not salt water so the problem was not serious, and must be from the fresh water system, somewhere in the stern area. The huge cockpit locker was emptied (no small task) for access to the pump and calorifier (hot water tank heated by recirculated engine cooling water). A telltale hiss told of a pinhole leak in the calorifier, which was traced on removal of some of the outer insulation. Due to age, the old unit was obviously beyond patching up and had to be replaced. A very helpful marine engineer was soon aboard and managed to source a modern replacement. The Skipper took out the old (vertical) unit and with great contortions managed to screw down the new (horizontal) unit, then assisted the engineer with fitting the new couplings and revised pipe layout. The water tanks were refilled, the engine run to check the heating and all declared OK. All this took place over two days of beautiful weather in Bangor, appreciated if not enjoyed as most of the time was spent down in the depths of the locker!

We crossed the North Channel in millpond conditions to Bangor, with its excellent marina. Another yacht left Portpatrick at the same time as us. We chose to hold to the shortest course, adjusting for tidal flow as we went, while the other yacht kept a steady heading allowing the tide to first sweep her south then back north as the tide turned. Neither strategy prevailed as we reached Bangor together.

Arctica’s New Cockpit Cover

Launched, rigged and loaded, we left Dumbarton to start our Summer 2011 cruise. There was a moment of anxiety as we strayed into shallow water at the edge of the unmarked channel from Dumbarton Rock to the Stone Beacon. With a sigh of relief, we soon joined the main River Channel and continued uneventfully down to Greenock, where a large container ship was berthing. Passing the yotspots of Cardwell Bay, Gourock YC, Inverkip Marina and Largs Yacht Haven we moored at Millport, well satisfied with an initial short trip to re-familiarise ourselves with the navigation and communications systems. As a trial run, we put up the new cockpit canopy and enjoyed its protection and all-round visibility for the evening.

Ardmaleish Point & Toward Point

The last island to be visited was Bute. Arctica anchored close to Ardmaleish Point at the foot of Windy Hill, the highest spot on Bute, but a mere 900 ft. It gave a good short outing on a fabulous day with none of the lower ground problems experienced on the Arran Marilyns – thick bracken, tangled brambles, acres of conifer forest, deep tussocks and dense heather. And after all that the higher ground is particularly boggy! Its just as well the main Arran hills are not so hard of access. The last night of the trip was spent at the Holy Loch Marina, much improved and extended over the few years since the last visit. The morning was spent taking off sails, removing boom, kicker and running rigging, slacking off standing rigging and generally preparing for lift-out before motoring the final stretch up river to Dumbarton. Within an hour of arrival the mast was off and Arctica was chocked up ashore. Suddenly it was all over for another season, but we had visited 54 anchorages and climbed 52 Marilyns.

Janice had come all the way from London and wanted to see the skipper. We found Arctica and her tender but couldn’t find the skipper who was on the hill without his phone! The Pierhead Tavern provided the best view of the route to the dinghy so we just had some scampi while we waited. Because we were very concerned about the skipper’s well-being, Janice felt that a bottle of delicious Sauvignon Blanc would help us to keep calm. When he eventually appeared, we bought him a pint shandy to revive him – he didn’t have any money! Just as well we were there…

Ailsa Craig from Mullach Mor, Holy Isle

Adder

Anchoring off the Holy Isle, Arran the Skipper climbed Mullach Mor, its fine little peak. Views from the summit are excellent, with Ailsa Craig prominent to the south. A mooring in Lamlash Bay gave good shelter from strong north-westerlies over the next couple of days. Returning from an exhausting nine hour day on the hill and roads, the Skipper was amazed to find the Mate and Janice waiting at the pierhead. They had made a day trip to Arran, and managed to while away a few hours eating and drinking in the pub until the Skipper’s late-ish return. They had to leave soon after for the ferry back from Brodick, but were back a few hours later having just missed the last ferry – through a combination of a bus not turning up and the ferry leaving early. However, they spent a comfortable night aboard and caught the Sunday morning ferry instead. Adders are rarely seen – the vibrations from approaching footsteps send them slithering for cover – but this one was captured on camera. It is one of only half a dozen sightings over many hundreds of outings on the hills.

Ardbeg Distillery, Islay

Good weather returned for our second visit of the season to these islands. We had a good breeze down the Sound of Jura to Craighouse, where we had a good bar meal at the Isle of Jura Hotel. We went through the snaking channel of the Ardmore Islands on our way down to Port Ellen on Islay. On a glorious summer afternoon we walked to Ardbeg and back – a stretch with four distilleries in three miles (Port Ellen, Laphraoig, Lagavulin & Ardbeg). As our Irish friend Anthony remarked ” there are seven distilleries on Islay and I’ve had a drink in all ten of them”! We were a bit early in leaving to round the Mull of Kintyre thanks to conflicting advice from the Yachtsman’s Pilot and the Tidal Atlas – we’ll be relying on the latter in future. Despite losing time to some adverse tide we were in Campbeltown at dusk. There the Mate left by bus for Glasgow, leaving the Skipper with a few days to take the boat back to Dumbarton to finish the season’s cruising.

Arrived 2030 Thu 26/08/10

Arrived 1140 Wed 25/08/10

Arrived 1310 Tue 24/08/10

Scarba, Luing, Garvellochs and Mull from Cruach na Seilcheig

Despite the strong breeze it was quite warm, and we enjoyed sunshine on a walk across Kerrera to the Oitir Mor. Passing through the farmyard on the way, we were enchanted by two litters of a dozen piglets running round the yard – one set brown with dark spots, the other pink. We regretted not having a camera with us. The other inhabitants of the yard were a pony, goats, ducks and ducklings, hens, guinea fowl and a few collie dogs. Out on the open ground were highland cattle and blackface sheep. The dire weather warning was not matched by the actual weather – the most we recorded were force 8 gusts – and it remained dry and sunny. From Oban we went down through the Cuan Sound to Loch Melfort, which was a new anchorage for us, and arrived just before the rain started. However, it cleared up in mid afternoon giving the opportunity to bag another wee hill. Today it rained steadily until we left on the tide for Loch Craignish, where we dropped anchor at teatime off Eilean nan Gabhar (Goat Island).

Arrived 1150 Sun 22/08/10

L Spelve from Sgurr Dearg

With mist low over the hills, plans for climbing were abandoned and we made the short trip down the Mull coast to Bunessan. Frequent showers continued for the rest of the day so we remained aboard. The next day started similarly but in a short time the front passed over, bringing excellent sailing conditions – a W breeze, bright sunshine and a clear blue sky. We went down the Sound of Iona, through by the Tinker’s Hole and along the south of Mull, admiring the coastal scenery. We anchored in Loch Spelve, intending to climb Sgurr Dearg, but the next day brought morning mist and rain again so we made for Oban instead, where we got provisions, diesel and water before continuing down to Puilladobhrain for the night. With the weather fair again we returned to Loch Spelve, where the Skipper took to the hill, the Mate to Tobermory. The evening forecast suggested, and the following morning forecast confirmed, the approach of nasty weather from the Atlantic – wind SW 5-7 increasing gale 8 to storm 10, occasionally violent storm 11 (near Ardnamurchan), so we have returned to Oban and a safe berth in the marina while we await developments.

Arrived 1905 Wed 18/08/10

Arrrived 1750 Tue 17/08/10

Arrived 1310 Mon 16/08/10

Today has been just perfect. After a bright, starry night we have had a day of unbroken sunshine with scarcely a breath of wind. Even before clearing Arinagour harbour we came across a young basking shark which approached us quite closely. A few hundred yards further out we met the full size version of at least 30 feet, and managed to take a couple of photos. Our trip across to Mull was over a glassy sea, which gave us sightings of dolphins and porpoises. We anchored in Laggan Bay, at the head of Loch Tuath – well offshore as it is shallow with a scattering of rocks. While the Mate sunbathed aboard the Skipper climbed another hill. In the evening at half flood we went cautiously through Ulva Sound, a beautiful but tortuous shallow passage between Loch Tuath and Loch na Keal, and anchored for the night at its southern end with a fine view of Ben More etched sharp against the clear sky. As the light began to fade, the Mate caught four mackerel for tomorrow’s dinner. Just perfect!

Arinagour

After rejoining Arctica at Loch Creran we motored up wind and against tide to round the N of Lismore, then hoisted sails for a stirring sail down the Lynn of Morvern to Rubha an Ridire and into the Sound of Mull (OK – we were a bit overcanvassed for the gusting conditions). Once anchored in Loch Aline we went ashore to walk round the head of the loch, which had dried out hugely on this, the lowest tide of the year so far. We admired Ardtornish House but gave the gardens a miss, and and continued down the east shore. By this time the wind had dropped and it was a beatiful sunny afternoon. On our return over the bridge at the head of the loch we watched a novice canoeist (no lifejacket) capsize and escape but do nothing more as canoe and paddle drifted gently down river and into the loch. Next morning we continued down the Sound of Mull and across to Arinagour, Coll – one of our favourite islands. We watched as other yachts came in until there were 14 in the anchorage for the night. Today we walked right round the southern part of the island (some 12 miles) then slaked our thirsts at the Coll Hotel before eating well at the Coll Cafe. This evening is perfectly still wth the prospect of a fine sunset.

Arrived 1250 Thu 12/08/10

Arrived 1200 Wed 04/08/10 and moored up for a week

Dunstaffnage Bay

We had an excellent fish and chip dinner at The Wide Mouthed Frog at Dunstaffnage with friends Sheena and Jim, who live locally. At night, Innes and Janice arrived for the weekend. Sadly, Saturday proved dreich in the extreme, not inspiring us to venture out, so a visit to Oban by car was made instead. Sunday turned out better, with a light breeze giving us a gentle sail down through Oban bay and Kerrera Sound. A phone call from the marina announcing more visitors had us retracing our route to meet up with Sheila and Gordon, who had come up to Oban for a weekend break. We enjoyed a drink and chat with them for the rest of the afternoon. Monday morning saw us rising very early to see Innes and Janice off to Glasgow for Janice’s flight back to London and work. After lunch we went over to Loch Aline to anchor for the night. Today we had a cracking sail up Loch Linnhe to Port Ramsay at the north end of Lismore. With downdraft from the Morvern hills we seemed to have even better wind than the West Highland Week fleet, which was sailing up the island shore on their race round Lismore. Tomorrow we leave Arctica at Barcaldine, Loch Creran while we return home for a week.
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Arrived 1255 Tue 3/8/10

Arrived 1230 Fri 30/07/10

Lismore Lighthouse

Things have been quiet for the last few days. The predominant feature has been the poor weather – mist, drizzle, rain and contrary winds with a few rare blinks of sunshine. We have come back in from the Outer Isles in four stages : Scalpay – Portree – Isle Ornsay – Loch Drumbuie – Oban. After the peace and quiet of Lewis and Harris it came as a jolt to find how busy at this time are the more easily reached cruising grounds. Loch Drumbuie (off Loch Sunart) was home to twenty three yachts last night, and Tobermory sported a sea of masts as we passed this morning. Oban is busy too, and will be even more so next week with West Highland Week in full swing. We are looking forward to Innes and Janice joining us for the weekend, and hope that the run of poor weather will have ended by then.

Arrived 1615 Tue 27/07/10

Arrived 1615 Mon 26/07/10

Arrived Portree 1420 Sun 25/07/10

Camus Kenmore, Loch Seaforth

Bog Cotton

Since leaving Stornoway we have been in and out of Lewis and Harris sea lochs climbing hills. Lochs Odhairn, Bhrollum and Seaforth gave us new anchorages, while Maaruig was familiar. We lost one day through poor weather, but otherwise it has been fair with intermittent sunshine. Wildlife has been plentiful – sea eagles, golden eagles, red deer, mountain hare and otter have all been seen at close quarters. We are now in Scalpay (Harris) where the north harbour provides good all-round shelter, and has drawn six yachts for the night.

Lifeboat Demonstation – Lochinver

Our return to Arctica did not run to plan – the bus from Inverness to Ullapool (our third of the day) broke down and had to be replaced, so we missed the connection for Lochinver. Fortunately the CalMac office helped us find a taxi prepared to make the 30 mile trip on a Saturday evening. In the morning we were delighted to be joined by John & Helen in ‘Mara’, who had been round at Drumbeg. We enjoyed our morning and afternoon coffees together, and dined at the Riverview Restaurant. The day was blustery and showery, providing the opportunity for some running repairs – reinstalling autopilot controller, restitching sprayhood, unblocking sink etc. It was also the Lifeboat open day, and we had a grand view of the Lifeboat and Coastguard helicoper demonstrating retrievals from the deck and the water. Today in calm and a flat sea we crossed the Minch to Stornoway – plenty of dolphins and porpoises, but still no whales seen. Yotties beware! – Stornoway currently has no provision for diesel fuel, although the local council hopes to have something in place before the end of the summer… The Port Authority has plans to to add more berths (with power) and provide toilets, showers, laundry room and drying facilities, but no date is given.

Jim and Euan on An Cruaidh

We had two days in Gairloch before the arrival of our friends. Sunday was misty and drizzly all day – just fine for catching up on boat chores, reading and relaxing. Monday was a beautiful day and, after finding a taxi when the bus failed to appear, the Skipper took to the hills between Gairloch and Loch Maree. This is a lovely stretch of hills – not high but very rugged, rough walking and with a nice sense of isolation. When Morag & Euan and Jim & Linda arrived we had lunch and blethered for a few hours before taking a short walk up Flowerdale. This sharpened appetites for a bar dinner at The Old Inn, which we can highly recommend – good menu, excellent food and fair value. Next day the men went off for an enjoyable longish walk to a little hill, leaving the ladies to their day of more sociable activities. Again we dined at The Old Inn before returning aboard for a nostalgic singsong. Today we said goodbye to our friends and sailed up to Lochinver, where we are leaving Arctica for three weeks before resuming our cruising.

Flowerdale House

A fellow sailor, from a boat that was rafted up to Arctica for a night, recommended a walk which starts just across the main road from the pier at Gairloch. He didn’t mention the house! I don’t think there are many like this in Gairloch. A nice leaflet, bought at the start of the walk, says that Flowerdale is part of the Gairloch Estate and has been in the hands of the Mackenzies of Gairloch for seventeen generations. It still looks pretty good to me. Today, in bright sunshine, I thoroughly enjoyed walking around this estate. With the gurgling burn, wild flowers and good paths, I would endorse the recommendation.

Loch Skipport, N Uist

Continuing strong northerlies kept us in Lochboisdale for a day then we continued up South Uist nevertheless. Off the north entrance to Loch Boisdale we almost ran into a basking shark. The sea was fairly rough and only at the last moment did we see the black triangular dorsal fin and the tip of the tail. Throttling back immediately seemed to wake the shark up and it dived with a big swirl of tail. Loch Skipport gave access to a pair of good hills – Hecla, just short of 2000ft, and its sharply protruding neighbour Ben Corodale. Lochmaddy was our next stop , and the Skipper made good use of the local bus connections to climb the final two Marilyns of North Uist. The Mate bussed to Eriskay and Berneray, where by chance she met Fan & James who were over for the day from Harris. Today in quiet conditions we crossed the Minch to Gairloch, an 8 hour trip, and are now settled on the pontoon at Gairloch Pier.

Raasay Sound from Ben Tianavaig

We thoroughly enjoyed our few days at Plockton in the company of family and friends. They had wonderful weather throughout their week in Scotland, and it has continued since then. We went back to Portree for diesel, water, showers, haircut and two more hills, including the very fine Ben Tianavaig overlooking Portree bay, the haunt of sea eagles which we saw. Our next stop was Isle Ornsay in the Sound of Sleat after a lovely sail in a light northerly, from Raasay under the Skye Bridge and down through the Kylerhea narrows with the ebbing tide. Today we gave the new engine its first long run as we motored the 52 miles out past Rum and Canna and across the Sea of the Hebrides to Lochboisdale, South Uist. Perversely, the wind got up on our arrival and we are now swinging about at anchor just astern of the moorings in a gusting fresh breeze (Force 5).

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Dolphins

Dolphin Watching

After a couple of nights at Portree, and hills on Scalpay and Raasay, we returned to Plockton to meet up with family and friends who had taken a house nearby for a week’s holiday. We had dinner and stayed overnight with them. The next day, one of glorious weather, we were joined by Fin and his friends Jules and Anna with their young daughters Liv, Freja and baby Chloe for a trip through the Kyle Strome narrows into Loch Carron. Much to the delight of guests and crew alike we met up with the resident dolphins, which cavorted round the boat for a mile or so. We nosed in among skerries for a close-up view of basking seals, then turned in to anchor off Lochcarron village. The girls were taken ashore for beachcombing, and their parents (hardy Swedes) took the opportunity for a swim. The weather was perfect – Scotland at its best – and we all enjoyed an unforgettable day. The next day started overcast but there was a sailing breeze. Fan and James came aboard for the day, and after topping up with water at Kyle pontoon we sailed up to the Crowlin Islands and went into the inner pool to anchor and have lunch. We made to leave an hour before Low Water Springs but ran out of water at the sill and grounded gently but firmly on shingle. We sat comfortably but slightly off the level until an hour after LWS when we floated off and were able to inch our way gently out and sail back to Plockton.

The skipper and mate have already read several of the library of novels brought on board for this season. One book we both really enjoyed is Case Histories by Kate Atkinson. The plot is complicated, three stories in one with a Cambridge based private investigator as its central character, and combines mystery, family drama,and despair. The action is split between Edinburgh and Cambridge with some very credible characters, a few very unexpected twists – and a lot of humour. Altogether a really good read.

Inverie

We made the short hop up to Mallaig and tied up alongside a fishing boat. The toolkit lacked a 24mm spanner to remove the gearbox sump plug for the 50 hour oil change, so it was straight off the chandlers and back for this simple task. But no! The spanner’s jaws were too thick for the restricted access – so off to the boatyard to borrow a 24mm socket and bar. But no again! The socket was too long for the clearance available – so back to the chandlers to exchange spanner for normal length socket. But no yet again! No metric sockets, only A/F, and size selected was just too large. Swapped again for correct size but still could not shift nut, which was by now somewhat chewed up. Back to boatyard, and kind fellow came to help. After 5 minutes of muttering he managed to free it off at last. All this took a few hours, but we finally got away and spent the night at Inverie, on Loch Nevis. It was really clear and beautiful, thanks to the cold northerly breeze. Today we went up the Sound of Sleat, throught the Kylerhea narrows, under the Skye Bridge and round to Plockton for a recce before our return visit next week. It is a beautiful spot.

Doirlinn Castle, Loch Moidart

We awoke to thick fog and the sounding of horns from the Calmac ferries, invisible from our mooring, as was the shore only 40 metres away. We went ashore early to the supermarket and the fog was already thinning on our return aboard. We left to catch the tide down the Sound of Mull, by which time the day was bright and sunny. We continued past Tobermory, round the NW corner of Mull, and down to Gometra, anchoring in the pool there. A quick ascent of the hill above (also called Gometra) helped work up a good appetite for dinner. Although still without wind, the next morning had fairly good visibility and we went north, past Ardnamurchan Point and through the tortuous entrance into Loch Moidart, anchoring just off Shona. An energetic afternoon saw ascents of Beinn a’Bhaillidh on Shona and Beinn Bhreac further up the loch. Then wind at last, but from NW, right on the nose for the short leg up to the sheltered anchorage at Arisaig, where it continued to blow Force 5/6 for the rest of the day.

After four nights in Portrush we had to get away and left for Islay despite the initially rough sea, motorsailing to Port Ellen where there are visitors’ moorings and a small marina.

The Crown Bar

We headed further along the Antrim coast, past the Giant’s Causeway (less impressive than its spectacular other end at Fingal’s Cave, Staffa) and round into Portrush. Of somewhat faded seaside glamour, the town was mobbed with many hundreds of bikers who had come to watch a major road race over the weekend. We took the train into Belfast and had a good wander round although it was cold with the occasional shower. Unfortunately, the City Hall was closed to visitors that day, but its Edwardian exterior is most impressive. We were also impressed by the Crown Bar, largely unchanged since Victorian times, and billing itself as the only pub with a webcam and still lit by gas! We also took a trip to Londonderry – a very attractive train journey, first to Coleraine and then along the coastline to Derry itself. We did the charity shops, bookshop, walk round the Walls and had lunch (Irish Stew, of course!) in a tearoom.

From Campbeltown we made for Rathlin and caught the tide just right at the Mull of Kintyre, reaching 9.9kts as we were swept out into the North Channel. Church Bay, Rathlin has a pontoon inside a large breakwater and provides good shelter (and showers).

Arran Peaks from Beinn Bhreac

A short passage south to Arran (first sighting of porpoises) took us in to Lochranza, always an attractive port of call. We spent two nights there while the Skipper added three more island Marilyns to his tally. The first day was gloriously warm and sunny with a superb sunset, but the next day reverted to being unseasonably cool in the prevailing northerly airstream. The weather was brightening as we headed south again down the Kilbrannan Sound to Campbeltown. Most of the shops were closed for a local holiday, but we were able to restock at a supermarket.

Toward Point

The wind got up overnight and by morning a steady Force5 was sending white horses right across Rothesay Bay. It was not uncomfortable, but too rough to go ashore in the dinghy. We set off in mid-morning and with the wind gusting erratically between F3 and F6 had a short sail down the Easy Kyle, past the Burnt Isles and in to Tighnabruaich. The afternoon was spent on doing a few minor jobs around the boat – little things which were not necessary before the launch, but which need to be kept on top of. Boat maintenance is never ending! The sun shone in the afternoon, but the NE breeze kept the temperature low.

Cloch Point, Arran in distance

After her winter layup at Dumbarton, which saw a new engine installed, Arctica put in to Rhu Marina for a few days. A flying visit from the Technical Wizard saw further upgrading to the navigation, communication and blog systems.After the final loading of personal gear and yet more food and drink, we got underway from Rhu at 1530 on a fine but calm afternoon. We ran the required engine checks at 50%, 75% and 100% throttle on the way down to Cloch Point and found all to be well with our new Beta28 and feathering propeller. On rounding Toward Point we decided that Rothesay would make an easy and convenient anchorage, and picked up a visitor’s mooring at 1800. It is a nice location, but somewhat rolly as the ferries come and go.