http://www.arctica.org.uk/ The sailing adventures of Arctica - a 36' Westerly Corsair yacht en Copyright 2009 Mon, 24 Aug 2009 22:48:19 +0000 http://www.movabletype.org/?v=3.17 http://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rss
The Final Few Days | Click photo to enlarge
Originally uploaded by arctica We got away from Arisaig on a grey morning, but by the time we rounded Ardnamurchan Point the weather had improved and we had good sailing in to Loch Sunart, where we anchored off Charna Island. The showery, gusty weather pattern resumed, but next day we had an easy sail up the Sound of Mull, then a storming broad reach across to Oban in a Force 7 wind. The visitors' moorings are quite exposed so we had a fairly rough lie until the wind moderated during the night. We had to motor the next passage down to Crinan against a southerly wind, but by early afternoon we were at anchor off Crinan sea lock in bright sunshine. Our intention was to return to the Clyde by way of the Mull of Kintyre, but the forecast of a southerly gale prompted us to opt for going through the Crinan Canal instead. Short handed, we teamed up with another yacht with four aboard and so made steady progress, but the day of transit proved the wettest of our whole summer's cruising. Today we left Ardrishaig and are spending our last night aboard at Rothesay, before the last leg tomorrow up river to Dumbarton, where Arctica will be lifted out to complete a very successful season's cruising.
]]> http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/08/the_final_few_d.html http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/08/the_final_few_d.html Mon, 24 Aug 2009 22:48:19 +0000
Gales and Strong Winds | Click photo to enlarge
Originally uploaded by arctica The forecast proved accurate - we had an easterly gale followed by a westerly gale as a deep depression passed over the Outer Isles. However, our third day at Castlebay (photo) saw the return of fair weather and we were able to get ashore for the 13 mile walk round the island. Despite our familiarity with Barra, we never tire of this walk with its ever changing views and the contrast between east and west coasts. Departing the next day, we crossed the Sea of the Hebrides to Rum, passing between the lonely light of Haskeir and the Humla Rock to its NE, and stopping outside Loch Scresort to catch mackerel for tea. A calm night followed, but with the wind rising and another gale expected we slogged down to the shelter of Arisaig, where we anchored just off the moorings. We are now on our second day of steady rain, little visibility and strong winds, with little prospect of change in sight yet. We are comfortable with plenty of books to read!
]]> http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/08/gales_and_stron.html http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/08/gales_and_stron.html Wed, 19 Aug 2009 10:30:35 +0000
Lots More Hills | Click photo to enlarge
Originally uploaded by arctica The morning was grey and misty, with a SW wind against us as we made down to Lochboisdale. It dried up after our arrival, so we walked the six mile round trip to the Daliburgh Co-op for provisions. At tea-time the mist cleared off the hills, and the Skipper set off for an evening ascent of Beinn Ruigh Choinnich and Triuirebheinn above the anchorage. The next day we anchored in Acarseid Mor, Eriskay and cycled over the causeway back to South Uist to climb Roneval and Eashaval. We enjoyed a pint in the Politician before returning aboard. The following day gave us perfect weather for the day's expeditions to Muldoanich and Pabbay for their hills (photo of anchorage at Pabbay). We passed close by a minke whale off Gighay and saw a dolphin, but sadly no basking sharks. We are now in Castlebay, Barra fully restocked and ready to cross the Sea of the Hebrides to the Small Isles, but our departure may be delayed by the current forecast of strong easterly winds.
]]> http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/08/lots_more_hills.html http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/08/lots_more_hills.html Thu, 13 Aug 2009 21:56:16 +0000
Meeting Other Boats | Click photo to enlarge
Originally uploaded by arctica We headed out through the Sound of Harris and anchored off Pabbay while the Skipper climbed its hill - Beinn a'Charnain. The island is small with sandy beaches and good sheep grazing - all reminiscent of the larger Taransay. Returning through the Cope Passage, we crossed Vaccasay Basin again to the shallow Bagh Chaise, from where Crogary na Hoe was climbed. Then it was off again for the short trip round to Lochmaddy and a mooring off the pier (photo). The next morning dawned bright and sunny, so we did not wait for the shop to open, but left early for Loch Eport a few miles south. There we met Norman and Gillian on Curlew, and had a good chat with them over coffee before climbing Eaval, a fine hill giving extensive views over the Uists and Benbecula. In the afternoon, we moved further south and anchored in the Wizard Pool, Loch Skipport on the NE of South Uist. Shortly after arriving, we were joined by Milvina and her Scottish/Canadian crew, whom we had met earlier in the season at Fair Isle. They had not long returned from Norway, where in Alesund they had met Peter and Neil in Seol na Mara. We enjoyed a convivial evening with them, watching a bright orange moon rise in the east.
]]> http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/08/meeting_other_b.html http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/08/meeting_other_b.html Tue, 11 Aug 2009 21:08:48 +0000
Back Aboard | Click photo to enlarge
Originally uploaded by arctica We resumed our summer cruise at Lochinver after travelling up by bus via Inverness and Ullapool. It was a fine, balmy evening and we met the first midges of the trip. A prawn fisherman gave us these four lovely whiting, which fed us for the next two days. We left on a fine, sunny but windless morning and motored down to Loch Gairloch, where we moored at Badachro. We left next morning in a S5 gusting 6, which gave us good sailing west across to the north of Skye and past Eilean Trodday. We decided to make best use of the wind and carried on across the Little Minch to the Sound of Harris, anchoring in Vaccasay Basin at Hermetray. It was low water springs and Dirt Rock was showing as a nasty row of rocky teeth. There is now a fish farm in the basin, but there is still plenty of room to anchor clear of it. The wind gradually died away to give a quiet evening.
]]> http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/08/back_aboard.html http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/08/back_aboard.html Sun, 09 Aug 2009 07:48:10 +0000
Home again, Home again........................... | Click photo to enlarge
Originally uploaded by arctica The weather seemed to settle into a pattern of warm, sunny days with thundery showers breaking out in the evenings. We spent an afternoon in the pub watching Andy Murray's exit from Wimbledon, and another walking from Lochinver to the bookshop and cafe at Inverkirkaig - always an interesting place to visit. We were given some lovely fresh pollack for tea after failing to catch any ourselves. Lochinver seems a good place to leave a boat, so we have left Arctica on the pontoon there for four weeks and gone home to do other things for a spell. We are signing off for now with this calm photo of warm sunshine and a smooth sea. To be continued........................
]]> http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/07/home_again_home.html http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/07/home_again_home.html Tue, 07 Jul 2009 16:22:21 +0000
A Change in the Weather | Click photo to enlarge
Originally uploaded by arctica We were joined for lunch by Ken and Ann, who drove over from Kirkwall in their open-top sports car. A Caterham 7, its dark green body, yellow nose and red leather seats drew admiring glances in Stromness. Soon after, Seol na Mara arrived with crew of Peter, Neil and Angus. In the evening we had a lively ceilidh with everyone in good form. We left early next morning for the crossing to the N coast, and motored in bright sunshine and a smooth sea across to Talmine, at the mouth of the Kyle of Tongue. Five miles out from Hoy and in deep water we were caught on a fishing buoy, but fortunately got it detached without difficulty. After dinner some showers started drifting over - the first rain for many weeks. Another still, bright morning saw us motoring again, west to Cape Wrath (photo) and south to Kinlochbervie. On the way we saw the spectacular sight of killer whales breaching repeatedly. Once berthed, we watched the cockpit thermometer rise steadily to an oppressive 99.7F (37.6C) but before it could reach 100F there was a dramatic weather change. In the space of minutes the sky darkened, lightning flashed, thunder rolled, a sudden howling wind shook the boat and the rain beat down in torrents. It was certainly dramatic if not downright scary!
]]> http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/07/a_change_in_the.html http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/07/a_change_in_the.html Thu, 02 Jul 2009 19:47:08 +0000
The Sun Shines On | Click photo to enlarge
Originally uploaded by arctica In Fair Isle we tied alongside 'Milvina', a Canadian flagged aluminium yacht with Canadian/Scottish owners, which overwinters at Ardrossan. Invited on board for a sundowner, and later a nightcap, we enjoyed a very sociable evening with her crew. It was southwards again next day for Orkney, where we spent the night at Stronsay pier. Big spring tides (Summer solstice) meant we had only two feet under the keel at low water and had to be careful not to get hung up on our warps. On our way down to Kirkwall we didn't allow sufficiently for the fierce 5+kt cross tide off Muckle Green Holm at the mouth of Westray Firth, and were carried well off course north of Shapinsay. Entering the Wide Firth, north of Kirkwall, we heard on the VHF a Dutch yacht calling the Coastguard for assistance as the Skipper had a suspected broken ankle. The Kirkwall lifeboat was despatched and we saw crew being put aboard to assist her in to the marina, and the casualty to a waiting ambulance. Happily, it was a case of only a sprained ankle. We have lost count of the number of consecutive sunny days with light easterly winds (photo) and are now in Stromness, awaiting the arrival of Seol na Mara on her way north.
]]> http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/06/the_sun_shines.html http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/06/the_sun_shines.html Sun, 28 Jun 2009 15:38:45 +0000
Lerwick to Fair Isle | Click photo to enlarge
Originally uploaded by arctica 'Boys' Week' was a great success, but the return of the Mate saw a great step-up in the standard of catering aboard. That evening, we found a live music session in the Douglas Arms and the Skipper contributed a few moothie tunes to the proceedings. On a beautiful morning, we turned up at Tingwall Airport for our day trip to Foula (with its two Marilyns) but were warned that thick fog was expected and a return flight could not be guaranteed. Reluctantly, we called off the trip and later kicked ourselves as no fog materialised much north of Orkney. However, we enjoyed a walk into Scalloway and a picnic in the sun on the waterfront. Jim caught the overnight ferry to Aberdeen and next morning we departed for Fair Isle, keen to be off agaain, but sorry to miss the Taste Of Shetland event and associated activities about to start in the tented village on the pier. The photo is of Sumburgh Head just before we rounded it to the west to avoid the 'roost'. At Fair Isle, we enjoyed a sociable evening with the Canadian/Scottish/English crew of 'Milvina'.
]]> http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/06/lerwick_to_fair.html http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/06/lerwick_to_fair.html Thu, 25 Jun 2009 21:13:06 +0000
South from Unst | Click photo to enlarge
Originally uploaded by arctica Next morning, the forecast of an impending southerly gale propelled us into a quick ascent of Saxa Vord, the most northerly Marilyn, and a short visit to the fascinating Unst Boat Haven museum, before departing south to Whalsay. Sod's Law of the Sea was at work again - now that we had changed direction, so had the contrary wind. We sat out a bad weather day in Symbister, but visited the restored "bod" (trading booth) from the days when Shetland traded with the Hanseatic League, based in Bremen. On the pier we saw this example of wheel clamping Shetland style! We then returned to Lerwick for Bob to catch the ferry home, leaving Jim and the Skipper based there for a few days until the Mate returns. A ferry trip across the sound, a walk across Bressay, and a short hop on the RSPB rib took us over to the nature reserve of Noss, with its spectacular cliffs and seabird colonies. Today we bussed to Hamnavoe on the west coast island of Burra and walked back to Scalloway and over the hills to Lerwick. The weather was showery, but we dried out comfortably between showers.
]]> http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/06/south_from_unst.html http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/06/south_from_unst.html Sat, 20 Jun 2009 20:10:51 +0000
A Long Day | Click photo to enlarge
Originally uploaded by arctica A crew changeover saw the Mate off home for a spell, and Jim and Bob joining ship in Lerwick. Our first port of call was the Out Skerries, where we enjoyed an evening of wonderful sunshine in this peaceful spot (photo). We then crossed over to Burravoe at the southern tip of Yell, and climbed its Marilyn - Hill of Arisdale. This was the Skippers 600th Marilyn and qualified him for entry to the Marilyn Hall of Fame. Burravoe pier has been deserted on previous visits, but this time four fishing boats were berthed (it being a Sunday). This led to an early start next morning as the boat alongside which we were tied fired up its engine to leave at 0530. We were over on Fetlar by 0900, anchored at the west of Tresta Wick, and were soon on the way up Vord Hill. Off again on our return, we went north to Unst, and joined Southern Cross and a Swedish Malo at Baltasound pier. Apparently three visiting yachts at the pontoon was a first. As it was a beautiful evening, we went off and climbed Valla Field, returning to the boat at 2130 to start making dinner. It was a long and very enjoyable day.
]]> http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/06/a_long_day.html http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/06/a_long_day.html Wed, 17 Jun 2009 14:32:21 +0000
Back to Lerwick | Click photo to enlarge
Originally uploaded by arctica Another early start saw us round Fitful and Sumburgh Heads and in to Lerwick by lunchtime.A few hours later we were joined alongside by "Southern Cross", a yacht from the Solent we had met on a few occasions in previous years. She had been on passage from the Faeroes to Norway but was driven south to Shetland by the northerly gale. The recent Marilyn-bagging activity had taken final toll on the Skipper's lightweight summer boots, which were replaced with something sturdier. We made a visit to Scalloway (photo of Shetland Bus memorial) and lunched on scallops in the excellent "Da Haaf" (old Norse word for ocean) restaurant in the Fisheries College. A Swedish three-master at Scalloway pier made a fine sight for visitors from the cruise liner berthed in Lerwick. The following day we hired a wee car and toured the north and west, allowing the Skipper to nip up the last two mainland Marilyns. Later we had a sociable evening with Sue and Matthew from Southern Cross, blethering until midnight when it was little more than dusk in this higher latitude.
]]> http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/06/back_to_lerwick.html http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/06/back_to_lerwick.html Thu, 11 Jun 2009 10:22:25 +0000
Down the West Coast | Click photo to enlarge
Originally uploaded by arctica An early start saw the Skipper cycling the three miles back to Roe Sound for a pre-breakfast ascent of Mid Ward on Muckle Roe. Then we sailed round Muckle Roe and in through the wonderfully named Swarbacks Minn to the sheltered waters and voes within. The NE 5/6 continued to blow, with a forecast increase to 7/8, so we made for the pier at the head of Aith Voe and berthed inside it in complete shelter next to the Lifeboat. Sure enough, the wind got up and white horses raced past the end of the pier, but we were scarcely disturbed, apart from the howl of the wind in the rigging. A lull for a couple of hours was enough for a quick ascent of Scalla Field, above East Burra Voe. Fine sailing in the continuing NE wind took us across St Magnus' Bay, through the Sound of Papa Stour,and down the dramatic coast of cliffs, caves, geos, stacks and skerries backed by green pasture land - a softer landscape than the barer north. After a night at the neat little marina at Skeld we sailed on south to the Bay of Scousburgh (photo), excellent shelter from the north, with a white beach at its head where a large group of seals were basking. From there it was a doddle to climb the Ward of Scousburgh, with its horrible summit of masts, extensive buildings, roads and a scrap car!
]]> http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/06/down_the_west_c.html http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/06/down_the_west_c.html Sun, 07 Jun 2009 17:31:56 +0000
Shetland Voes and Anchor Woes | Click photo to enlarge
Originally uploaded by arctica From Symbister, Whalsay we went north through Linga Sound, round Lunna Ness and south to Dales Voe (photo), a fjord-like voe below Dalescord Hill, which was duly climbed. We left again immediately to catch the last of the ebb tide through the turbulent Yell Sound, but it was still slow going against a persistent northerly wind. We crossed the head of Sullom Voe, with its huge oil storage tanks, tanker berths and constant flame stack to Gluss Voe, where we anchored for the night - good holding but rather exposed to the north. More hard northing was made the next morning to reach Fethaland Point, the northmost point of the mainland, at slack water and gain the benefit of the flood tide down the west coast. We intended to go in to Hamna Voe, but decided it was too rough to attempt the tricky entrance on a first visit. Plan B saw us rounding Esha Ness and crossing St. Magnus' Bay to the island of Muckle Roe, where we entered Roe Sound. Despite an extremely shallow entrance to and limited room within the inner pool, we attempted to anchor, but thick kelp prevented the anchor from holding, so we had to move on to Plan C. This meant a short move north to Mangaster Voe, where again thick kelp prevented safe anchoring, but we were able to pick up a vacant mooring just behind the innermost fish farm.
]]> http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/06/shetland_voes_a.html http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/06/shetland_voes_a.html Thu, 04 Jun 2009 21:13:12 +0000
Shetland Marilyns | Click photo to enlarge
Originally uploaded by arctica From the anchorage at Sumburgh we climbed Fitful Head, near the cliffs of which the oil tanker Braer came ashore some years ago. The main road crosses the end of the recently extended airport runway, and we were briefly held there on our return as a plane took off. A S4-5 gave us a fine sail north, passing inside Mousa to view the Broch, and out to Noss Head to see the bird cliffs towering above us. A sizeable sea had built up there which added to the dramatic situation. In contrast, it was peaceful in Lerwick where we berthed in the Small Boat Harbour, meeting up again with Willie in Quaver. We were the only two Brits among the Norwegians, Finns, Danes and Dutch. A short ferry crossing took us over to Bressay, where we climbed the Ward, groaning at yet another set of hilltop communications masts. A better walk the next day was from Cunningsburgh to Royl Field (photo of Foula from there) and along the hills forming the spine of the south mainland to Scrae Field. This part of the island is so narrow that we had views of both east and west coasts. Andrew left us at the end of his trip and we made the short trip north in perfect weather to Whalsay and took a visitor's berth in Symbister, a harbour busy with inter-island ferries and inshore fishing boats.
]]> http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/06/shetland_marily.html http://www.arctica.org.uk/archives/2009/06/shetland_marily.html Mon, 01 Jun 2009 10:03:38 +0000