Low Water – Strath, Gairloch

Coigach Hills

On a bright morning, with heavy frost covering the deck, we left Loch Shell to cross the Minch to Gairloch – an uneventful trip apart from sighting a minke whale. We tied up at the Flowerdale pontoon and walked along to Strath, visiting the excellent book/coffee shop. A walk up Flowerdale to the waterfall – reduced to a trickle after weeks of dry weather – sharpened the appetite for dinner at The Old Inn. Before leaving Gairloch we discovered that the spare diesel drums had not been filled before leaving Dumbarton, so what was left in the tank would probably be enough to just get us to Lochinver, but without any margin for safety. With the harbour now unmanned we had to make a sortie to the filling station to buy road fuel – and at a price! It was a long, lumpy trip up to Lochinver against a swell kicked up by the persistent northerlies but we got there in late afternoon – the first visitors of 2012 to the pontoons. There will now be a break in blogging while we go home for two weeks to pursue other activities.

The Shiants

Summer Hailstones!

After spending a night at Loch Maaruig, off Loch Seaforth, we went up the latter as far as navigable to climb Guainemol and Muithabhal. Back aboard, we were suddenly closely overflown by a tight group of vintage aeroplanes, three from WWII and a WW1 biplane. In response to our waves we got a waggle of wings and a burst of coloured smoke. That night was spent behind Eilean Hingerstay in Loch Claidh. Today, in beautiful weather, we went further north, passing the Shiants on the way to Loch Shell, where we met an extended wintery shower. Back in sunshine, we dropped the hook in Tob Eisken – a nice spot with with well-maintained lodge, grounds, estate houses and cottages. Short wintery showers persisted, but did not prevent the ascent of Feirihisval. During dinner a sudden blatter of large hailstones allowed a wintery photo to contrast with the morning’s summery one. We will not go up to Stornoway on this occasion, as the inner harbour is closed for dredging, and will probably cross the Minch to Wester Ross from here.

Primroses

In continuing excellent weather we returned through the Sound of Harris to the east coast by way of the Stanton Channel off Leverburgh – much more straightforward than the Cope Passage. Off Loch Finsbay we saw a lifeboat inshore of us, and later learned it was taking up station at Leverburgh that day, welcomed by much local celebration. We anchored in sheltered Scalpay north harbour in mid-afternoon and basked in the cockpit as the temperature rose to reach 86F at 7pm! We then had a surprise visitor – friend Angus from home (of musical and sailing connections) who was staying with relatives in the village, and took us to visit them. Another surprise awaited us next morning in Tarbert as we transferred on to the bus for Stornoway. We bumped into lifelong hillwalking friend Andrew, who was returning to Inverness from a visit to Harris and a trip out to St Kilda. In the evening we had Chrissie (nursing friend of the Mate) and Bob aboard for a drink. They divide their time between houses in Glasgow and Scalpay.

Loch Tamanavay

Tahaval from the bealach

We passed westwards through the twisting Cope Passage of the Sound of Harris, finding all the buoyage missing from half way through – not sure whether the change is temporary or if an alternative route has been buoyed instead. We were well prepared, with the full route already set up on the chart plotter. After rounding Toe Head we passed Taransay then through Caolas Scarp – only 5ft clearance at HW Neaps. We anchored at the head of Loch Tamanavay (english corruption of gaelic corruption of original norse) where the Skipper nipped up Griomaval 1631ft before dinner. There followed a big day, climbing Cracaval, Mealisval and Tahaval under a hot sun, but rewarded by great views all round. Bare rock abounds with intervening springy turf and moss, tussocky lower down but thankfully not much heather.

Castlebay

Stulaval from Arnaval

Gale force winds kept us in Castlebay for two days before we could continue north to Lochboisdale, South Uist. Our departure was preceded by one of the “wintery showers” of the forecast – a squall bringing sleet, hail and some swirling snowflakes. Despite the cold breeze and a head sea the trip was pleasant – returning sunshine makes such a difference to everything. We bussed to the Co-op at Daliburgh and walked the few miles back. The next day was very fine – sunshine and blue skies, although the light breeze was still rather chilly. We caught the mid-morning bus for Lochmaddy, North Uist – the Mate continuing there while the Skipper alighted at Mingarry, from where a rough track leads on to the peaty moors. The ascent of Arnaval and Stulaval and return across the moors to Lochboisdale made a good 5 hour outing. We are now at Lochmaddy, North Uist basking in warm sunshine, and planning to visit the west coast of Lewis while good weather holds.

Barra Airport

Loch Skipport, South Uist

Approaching Barra Airstrip

For more than forty years we have hoped to experience one day a flight to Barra, landing on the extensive sands of the Traigh Mor at the airstrip. If the plane has spare seats a sightseeing return to Benbecula is possible, and today our presence, seat availability and ideal conditions combined to make the trip a reality. The flight is short, about 20 minutes, but gives stunning views of the coast, beaches, lochs and hills of Eriskay, South Uist and Benbecula. Many anchorages and hills previously visited gave fascinating views from an unusual perspective. On the return flight we had the 19 seater plane to ourselves! Our timing was perfect, as today the northerly wind is getting up to gale force and we are reluctant to go ashore in case of difficulty returning aboard. We are happy to take it easy and catch up on some reading.

Castlebay Pier

Kisimul Castle, Barra

We carried on down the Sound of Mull passing multi-coloured Tobermory then turning SW at Ardmore Point for the crossing of the Sound of Tiree to Coll. At Arinagour we anchored off the stone beacon before the old pier as depth allowed – the only boat in the anchorage. There were a few spots of rain at intervals throughout the afternoon – but not enough to hamper the making of a new dinghy seat to replace the old one which collapsed at Oban, and repairing the boathook which got broken at Sanda. There’s aye something…….!! Today we went through Gunna Sound between Coll and Tiree and out into the Sea of the Hebrides. At last we had a sailing breeze which gave us a sparkling sail across to Castlebay, Barra. We have a lovely position in the bay with the village, pier, castle and Vatersay affording good views all round.

Looking North from Cruach Scarba

Sunset, Puilladobhrain

The next ploy was to climb Cruach Scarba, separated from Jura by the Corryvreckan Whirlpool, which can be a dangerous place in the wrong wind/sea conditions. We anchored out of the tide race in a little bay at the SE end of Scarba, from where the ascent was easy, if rather undulating. The summit views were magnificent, especially north over the Black Isles, Luing, Seil and Kerrera. We carried on north through the Sound of Luing to spend the night at Puilladobhrain (otter’s pool – but no otter!), where we viewed a dramatic sunset. The next port of call was Oban for shopping, fuel and gas before making into the Sound of Mull for Loch Aline and a berth at the new pontoons. It’s a nice little marina which next season will have shore facilities. On a quiet evening, it is hard to imagine the hurricane conditions we survived here last year!

Old Pier, Loch na Cille

Kinuachdrach Harbour

In continuing fine weather we headed north from Port Ellen, past the Ardmore Islands and the Sound of Islay, where a warship crossed ahead of us. There is a major multinational joint services exercise in the area for two weeks, training for a combined response to a potential terrorist threat. We anchored at Lagg Bay for a visit to Cnoc an Ime, a fine little hill just south of the half-mile wide narrow neck of the island. The night was spent at Loch na Cille on the mainland shore of the Sound of Jura. Another fine morning saw us head for Kinuachdrach Harbour at the NE of Jura, from where Cruach na Seilcheig was climbed, giving good views of the Corryvreckan with its Great Race and the “cool high bens” of Mull. The two hills have similarities in being almost identical in height and having their trig point on the wrong top – both out by half a mile. Having lost the flood tide, we crossed through the Dorus Mor to anchor off Goat Island in Loch Craignish. All is peaceful apart from the honking of four pairs of Canada Geese.

Sanda

At Port Ellen

It was a calm, bright morning as we left Sanda with the start of the west and north going tidal stream, which we carried all the way up to Port Ellen, reaching there at lunchtime. As forecast, the SE wind gradually got up during the afternoon and was soon pressing Arctica hard against the pontoon.We fixed extra warps to hold her off and lay more comfortably thereafter. It was bitterly cold in the wind, but we enjoyed the protection of the cockpit cover, from which we could survey the scene in comfort. The strong wind moderated overnight but still had a bite to it in the morning, and the radio gave news of snow at Drumochter. We took the post bus to Bowmore where we browsed the shops and had a pleasant stroll round in the fine conditions. There is a small marina but it looks too shallow for yachts, and its scanty breakwater largely cosmetic.