Wed 10 September 2008

Back to the Clyde

The first stop on our return leg to the Clyde was Carsaig, a few miles south of Crinan - an attractive village set round the bay, offering a nice half-mile walk across the peninsula to the more sheltered but less accessible Tayvallich. On a dreich, windless morning we started down the Sound of Jura but after a couple of hours the weather improved and we reached Gigha in bright sunshine, seeing a dolphin with calf in Ardminish Bay. Ashore, we enjoyed playing in an impromptu music session, walked to Achamore Gardens, and at night stargazed into the very clear sky. Mike left us the next morning, taking the ferry to Tayinloan, and we set off to round the Mull of Kintyre. Off the lighthouse, we met with /Seol na Mara /and passed across her Skipper's bunnet, which Peter had sorely missed. There followed four hours of frustrating motor-sailing without making any appreciable headway against the fierce tide - but as it eased we were able to continue to Campbeltown. After a showery day at Brodick, we made up to Rhu, where the Mate gutted the bucketful of mackerel we caught off Inverkip. Our final day started with a visit to Iain and Barbara in Helensburgh, then we motored up-river to Dumbarton where we were immediately de-masted and lifted out for the winter. Our summer cruising had occupied 121 days, covered 1,760 nautical miles, and visited 70 anchorages.

Posted by skipper at 02:22 PM | Comments (1)

Sat 30 August 2008

Rathlin to Oban

Our second attempt at crossing to Islay was different - instead of too much wind we had too little and had to motorsail. Unfortunately, steady rain started at Port Ellen so none of us ventured ashore. Ann left on the ferry to Kennacraig the next morning and the three of us left shortly thereafter, ghosting through the Ardmore Islands inside passage and catching a good haul of mackerel before picking up a fair wind for Craighouse, Jura. From there we had a cracking sail up the Sound of Jura to Ardfern, where we anchored and went ashore for a drink in the Galley of Lorne inn. After a peaceful night we got away to catch the flood tide through the Dorus Mor and Sound of Luing, turning west for a first visit to the Black Islands, where we lunched in the good anchorage. A planned landing on the Garvellachs was abandoned when we found the Garbh Eileach anchorage to be tiny with no swinging room, so we made on to Oban, where we moored as usual on a vacant mooring just off the esplanade. A trip ashore saw us restocked for the final week of cruising, with lift-out booked at Dumbarton for Thursday 4 September.

Posted by skipper at 07:55 AM | Comments (0)

Mon 25 August 2008

Portrush and Ballycastle

Sailing past the Giant's Causeway (unimpressive from seaward - dwarfed by columnar cliffs along the north Antrim coast) we reached Portrush, and dined at the much-recommended Harbour Bistro - liked the food but not the two hour wait for it. Next day we took the train to Londonderry and walked round the old city walls, visited the siege museum and browsed the second-hand bookshops and charity shops. A poor weather forecast ruled out rounding Malin Head so we stayed another day in Portrush. Mike and the Skipper accepted an invitation to crew on a racing yacht, which was fun but wet in a Force 7 wind. Continuing westerlies made us abandon plans to go out west to Tory Island, so we headed back east to Ballycastle, an attractive resort with a smallish marina. After strong overnight winds the forecast of SW 5-7 was ideal for sailing north to Islay, and we set off with barely 10kts of wind registering. However it blew up suddenly, and in no time we had a W 7 gusting 8 with big seas from wind over strong tide, and a small tear appeared in the reefed headsail. We turned and ran downwind into Rathlin, where we await better conditions before continuing north.

Posted by skipper at 12:44 PM | Comments (1)

Wed 20 August 2008

Rathlin Island

With Mike and Ann aboard, our destination on a lunchtime departure from Campbeltown was Rathlin, making use of the ebb tide through the North Channel. A northerly 5 gusting 6 gave us a stirring sail down to Sanda Sound, but we then decided to spare Ann (not a happy sailor) the longer haul and put in for the night at Sanda south anchorage, tucked under 'The Ship' lighthouse,well sheltered from the sea running outside. The demands of tide saw us on our way again in darkness at 0415 into a westerly breeze, with rough seas at first until clear of the Mull of Kintyre. Thereafter the crossing was easy, but requiring a huge course offset to allow for the strong cross-tide. At Rue Point, the S end of Rathlin, and slightly behind schedule, we ran into a 5kt tide race and spent most of an hour clawing our way through to slack water and into the shelter of the breakwaters to tie up alongside the pontoon at 0915. After a hearty breakfast and catching up a couple of hours sleep we went ashore for walks. Rathlin is an attractive island, popular with day trippers who are soon left behind as you walk quiet roads bordering fields of black cattle fattening on the lush grass. There is a bird reserve, but a trip there will have to await our next visit.

Posted by skipper at 06:42 PM | Comments (0)

Sun 17 August 2008

Bangor and Glenarm

We spent a day in Bangor, taking it easy and visiting the many charity shops and the excellent second-hand bookshop. A pint of Guinness in The Black Boat Bar went down well. At night, the Skipper returned for the live music but was disappointed to find it was not traditional Irish. However, in the back room at Fealty's Bar there was a good going session with flute, banjo, 3 fiddles, mandolin and guitar. They were happy for a moothie to join them and the music went on until 2am. A wet and windy forecast induced us to stay for a second day, but the actual weather was not so bad although heavy rain started in late afternoon and continued through the night, causing widespread flooding throughout Northern Ireland. Today we sailed to Glenarm with its charming little marina and helpful harbourmaster. We walked the three miles to Carnlough and confirmed that its small harbour (photo) has no room for a visiting yacht. Tomorrow we head for Campbeltown to be joined by Mike and Ann for a spell.

Posted by skipper at 09:43 PM | Comments (0)

Fri 15 August 2008

Girvan and Portpatrick

Heading SE to Girvan with a reef in the sails, we had a S5/6 to give us a stirring sail with Ailsa Craig acting as route marker. With a little lee provided by the shore, the seas off the harbour entrance were somewhat reduced and we were sheltered by the breakwater before crossing the sand bar, with 3ft of water to spare, into the harbour. The town, like many a fishing/seaside resort, has a run down air - boarded up shops, downmarket offerings and little sign of reinvestment - but is in a nice setting with low green hills behind. We moved south to Portpatrick (photo) on a windless day, and into the small harbour with its tight and twisting entrance without difficulty. On a hot summer's day the place was alive with visitors - kids on the beach and fishing from rocks, outdoor tables for food and drink, an amusement arcade and folk strolling everywhere. The next leg took us SW across the North Channel to Bangor, Co Down with Ireland's self proclaimed best marina, where we are spending two nights. Bangor is a prosperous town with well developed tourism and a good range of facilities.

Posted by skipper at 10:51 AM | Comments (0)

Tue 12 August 2008

Music... at last!

It was a lively evening in Port Ellen as we played in the Ardview Inn - including a bit of highland dancing in the tiny lounge bar. While Seol na Mara sailed for Rathlin, we spent the next day on Islay, bussing to Portnahaven, a very pretty village centred round a shallow harbour. The two boats met up again at Sanda (off the Mull of Kintyre) on Friday evening for the Bowling Harbour Ceilidh Band weekend at the Byron Darnton inn, and were joined by Mike who had spent most of the day bussing over from Fife. Sanda is a lovely little island, more Hebridean than Clyde, with an excellent pub serving good food, letting cottages, bunkhouse and camping space. It is popular with the local worthies from Southend, who come and go in all states of inebriation in a variety of ribs and speedboats. We had a weekend of music, song and drink, punctuated by an overnight SE gale, which saw a number of yachts leaving in the early morning - but the holding is excellent and we rode it out comfortably. On Sunday afternoon, after a final outdoor session in the sunshine, we sailed off to Campbeltown and later saw Mike off on the bus for home.

Posted by skipper at 11:32 AM | Comments (1)

Wed 6 August 2008

Jura and Islay

The regatta comprised four sailing dinghies and six rowing boats - hardly the stuff of Cowes Week - but great fun was had by all. In the evening, entertainment was provided by "The Wherries", a three man outfit who were big on audience participation. The ensuing dance with "Skerryvore" started at 0145 (!!), and their six-man full-on amplification in the small hall was so overpowering that we left after a couple of sets. The next day we caught the tide through the Sound of Islay and went into Loch Tarbert, Jura and spent the rest of the day aboard in intermittent rain. The morning proved brighter, encouraging the Skipper to don his boots for the three-Marilyn round of Scrinadle, Corra Bheinn and Beinn Bhreac. At 10pm we spotted Seol na Mara going in to anchor at the narrows, spoke on the VHF, and joined her in the morning for a wee refreshment. We then sailed in company down through the Sound of Islay to the Ardmore Islands, a favourite anchorage of both skippers, where we enjoyed a joint dinner followed by a ceilidh. Today we left together in thick drizzle for Port Ellen, where we are berthed in the neat marina, restocking with food and drink.

Posted by skipper at 06:12 PM | Comments (1)

Mon 4 August 2008

Crinan to Jura

After a short visit home, we travelled back to Crinan by bus and taxi to resume our summer cruise. The Canal has been closed for two weeks pending a temporary repair to the Crinan sea lock where the sill has collapsed, preventing one of the gates from seating properly. As a result, many holiday sailors are having to round the Mull of Kintyre for the first time. Today we left Goat Island in Loch Craignish and headed down the Sound of Jura. Initially misty and atmospheric, it became foggy then rained steadily so we only persevered as far as Craighouse, Jura where we picked up a visitors mooring. Later on the weather improved, the Paps of Jura lost their cloud cover and patches of blue sky appeared. In the evening we were treated to a display of flying by a light aircraft which came over the bay, did a couple of circuits and tight turns at mast height, and buzzed a large motor boat before disappearing. Among the boats here for the night are a another Westerly Corsair and a Fastnet 34 "Skibbereen". We learned there is a small boat regatta here tomorrow (the new dinghy pontoon was officially opened today) so we may decide to stay, watch the fun and go to the ceilidh in the village hall.

Posted by skipper at 08:55 PM | Comments (0)

Wed 16 July 2008

Its a Drag!...

......but not if our anchor had been this size! With the intention of starting an anticlockwise sail round Mull we anchored in Loch Aline, but sat out the next day in really dreich conditions. That night the wind shifted right round and blew up strongly, and at 0245 we were wakened by a horn sounding and searchlight flashing - a nearby yacht had seen that we had started to drag into the shallows. In darkness, we got the anchor up and motored out to re-anchor in good holding. The Mate sat up on anchor watch until daylight, while the Skipper got his head down again. The morning saw a steady force 6 and breaking waves charging up the Sound of Mull, so plans were quickly changed and we ran with the weather back up to Duart Point and down into Loch Spelve. Today we crossed back from Mull, down through Cuan Sound to Loch Shuna, and into Craobh Haven where laundrette, showers, shop, chandlery, fuel and water are all to hand. Everything is fine except the weather, which is showery - where have the sunny days of May and June gone?

Posted by skipper at 10:43 PM | Comments (4)

Sun 13 July 2008

Around Oban and Mull

We met more and more yachts as we passed through the Sound of Mull again, with the holiday season now in full swing. Picking up a mooring at Craignure, the ferry port for Mull, we went ashore in hot sunshine for a walk to Torosay Castle, with its mile of miniature steam railway (photo). During the evening the northerly breeze, to which we were exposed, freshened making the anchorage uncomfortable, so we made a late move across to Bernera, off the west coast of Lismore, which was sheltered. With Dunstaffnage Marina full for the weekend with Classic Malt Cruisers we had to use Oban to pick up Pat and Stan for the weekend, but managed to secure a mooring close inshore off the esplanade - handy for the short transfer from the slipway. With a Force 6 on the nose on Saturday we abandoned the planned visit to Tobermory (the first for Pat and Stan) after going as far as Craignure, then turned about for a comfortable sail down to Loch Spelve, where we spent the rest of the day. On Sunday we sailed over to Puilladobhrain for a short stay, then up through the Sound of Kerrera back to Oban for a late lunch and farewell to Pat and Stan. Then off again to Loch Aline, where we arrived as a dreich drizzle set in for the rest of the evening.

Posted by skipper at 09:41 PM | Comments (1)

Tue 8 July 2008

Good Sailing

On leaving the Crowlin anchorage we set full sail in a light breeze, but it suddenly blew up to a near gale, forcing us to double reef for an exhilarating sail down to the Skye Bridge. From there it was motorsailing against a light southerly through Kylerhea and down to Loch Nevis, where we anchored at Glas Choille. The same weather pattern was repeated next day, giving us a superb broad reach right across to Loch Scresort, Rum where we had the bay to ourselves. We visited Stroma and David at their flat in Kinloch Castle with irrepressible two year old son, new baby daughter and visiting grannie, Irene. The castle, now run by Scottish Natural Heritage as a hostel, bistro and bar, is almost entirely in its century old original condition with resplendent Victorian contents - including fully working automatic 'orchestrium', built-in with beautiful brass, chrome, carpentry and mechanical linkages. It was commissioned by Queen Victoria but never installed after her death, allowing Lord Bullough to acquire it.

Posted by skipper at 12:31 PM | Comments (0)

Sun 6 July 2008

Lewis to Skye

After saying farewell to Stornoway, we sat out 36 hours of strong southerlies at Lemrevay, Loch Shell and had to motor the anchor out as it was so well dug in. After a night at Scalpay North Harbour we crossed the Minch in a flat calm to Acarseid Mor on Rona, a popular anchorage which we shared with three other yachts - that is crowded by our standards! Then to Portree where we waited at the pier for two hours for diesel as, due to staff shortage, one harbourmaster is covering both Uig and Portree. The next day the Mate bussed round the Totternish peninsula while the Skipper climbed a couple of the Red Cuillins. We moved on in the evening to the Crowlin Islands where we were fortunate to meet Seanachan and Ilona on Sonas, and had a drink and a blether with them. It was a beautiful evening and the photo was taken after 11pm.

Posted by skipper at 01:15 PM | Comments (0)

Wed 2 July 2008

Sailing Again

Our travels in Arctica have resumed after some ten days at home. With hindsight, we timed the trip perfectly - at the end of the long spell of very fine weather. Highlight of the break was an outing in Seol na Mara with Peter, Iain and Barbara to view the classic yachts mustered on the Clyde for the Fife Regatta (yacht designer, not county). We were at the start as these beautiful craft with enormous sail plans set off to race from Rhu to Rothesay - a truly spectacular sight. Then Barbara cooked up not only fresh scones - her specialty - but also strawberry jam to go with them! It was a wonderful day out in great company. The following day Iain and the Skipper bussed to Glencoe and climbed a couple of Grahams (2000ft hills) getting soaked to the skin in the process. Luckily catching a bus immediately on descent to Ballachulish, we changed into dry clothes at the back of the bus, which was fortunately far from busy. On our return to Stornoway (where the Lewis Chessman lives) we were amazed to see a Great Northern Diver swimming in the Harbour, not 20 metres from the pontoon.

Posted by skipper at 09:08 PM | Comments (1)

Sun 15 June 2008

Lewis

The wild weather over, we ventured out again and made for Lemervay, at the mouth of Loch Shell, inside Eilean Iubhard where a large Norwegian 'mother ship' was hoovering up salmon from the fish farm. (Photo - Shiants and Skye from Orasay, Loch Shell). Cromore, at the entrance of Loch Erisort was our next port of call - a sheltered spot overlooked by a few cottages and croft houses.From there it was a short hop to Stornoway and the luxury of a pontoon berth in the inner harbour. The excellent bus services were used for trips north to Tolsta to climb Muirneag 248m, and west to Shawbost for Beinn Bhragair 261m. We have decided to return home for ten days, leaving Arctica in Stornoway; our sailing adventures will resume thereafter.

Posted by skipper at 10:37 PM | Comments (0)

Tue 10 June 2008

A Bit Wild

Just a nice photo - no connection with the gale! Overnight, the wind got up as forecast and we let out extra anchor chain as a precaution. By morning a gale was being funnelled through the gap in the hills east of Clisham and came roaring over Loch Maaruig, driving white horses through the anchorage. It set up quite a racket - waves breaking, water slapping the hull, a howl from the rigging and loud snubbing of the anchor chain as Arctica sheered about, heeling dramatically in the strongest gusts. Despite all this, we recorded nothing more than a Force 8 gale. The mind boggles at the thought of being out at sea in a Force 10 - hats off to all deep sea fishermen! The weather did not seem to affect the otter out fishing for his dinner quite close to the boat. Today is another of gusting wind, but there are signs of the weather moderating. We will be content to spend another day here catching up on our reading.

Posted by skipper at 02:24 PM | Comments (0)

Sun 8 June 2008

Back to Harris

According to the local press, this continues to be the driest spell in the Outer Hebrides for 40 years - we can scarcely believe our good fortune in being here at the right time. Since Miavaig we have visited Loch Carloway with its broch, Kirkibost in East Loch Roag, Loch Tamanavay where we saw another golden eagle, and then returned through the Sound of Harris to Loch Finsbay. Today we sailed up the east coast of Harris, spotting two minke whales, and in to Loch Maaruig, an offshoot of Loch Seaforth. On a bright and breezy afternoon the Skipper climbed Todum 528m, a shapely hill overlooking the anchorage, and met people for the first time in the last 21 hills. With the possibility of winds gusting up to Force 8 in the next 24 hours we will review our options in the morning; fortunately the east coast of Lewis offers a good choice of sheltered anchorages.

Posted by skipper at 07:52 PM | Comments (0)

Wed 4 June 2008

Miavaig, Lewis

With no sign of impending precipitation and the fine weather continuing, we went in to Miavaig, in the SW corner of West Loch Roag, which looks full of interest on both the Admiralty Chart and the OS Map. We were glad of our chart plotter, which enabled us to easily avoid the many skerries, reefs and shallow patches. We were struck by the beauty of the place, and the temporary availability of a pontoon berth induced us to stay for three nights. We were fortunate to befriend Alastair and Margo who live locally, and will soon be setting sail for Greenland in their lovely wooden yacht 'Iona of Rhu'. A few more Marilyns have been climbed, and the Mate enjoyed a short visit to Stornoway on the Post Bus. With no rain for seven weeks now, the moors are exceptionally dry, but would normally be exhausting bogland. As it is, the going is rough, compensating for the relatively low height of the hills.

Posted by skipper at 08:58 PM | Comments (0)

Mon 2 June 2008

More Islands

We were fortunate in choosing the best day of the week for our visit to Taransay, now uninhabited with no obvious traces of 'Castaway' from a few years ago. The scenery, weather and turquoise water gave nothing to the Caribbean save the water temperature - not enticing for swimming!The island is very attractive with sandy beaches and dunes, rocky foreshore, hill lochans (one with remains of a dun), and fine views of the Harris hills from its summit, Ben Raah 297m. Next morning we set off early for the beautiful anchorage at the north end of Scarp (photo), the Mate sunbathing while the Skipper climbed Sron Romul 308m. Later we moved on to Camas Uig, Lewis, a few miles short of Loch Roag, where we dropped the hook in a nice pool with a sandy beach, sheltered from seaward by islets.The day ended with another spectacular, fiery sunset but we can expect some showers within the next 24 hours.

Posted by skipper at 09:25 AM | Comments (0)

Thu 29 May 2008

West Loch Tarbert

After a spectacular sunset, the day started bright and the wind had abated to a Force 5, but the forecast was for rain to come. We motored through the Sound of Harris, finding a number of the buoys marked on a newly purchased chart were missing, but following the Cope Passage was straightforward. Clear of all dangers, we set reefed sails and had a grand sail across to Toe Head at the SW end of Harris, but faced a headwind round in the Sound of Taransay, which saw us motorsailing thereafter. The predicted rain arrived and the hills took on a gloomy aspect. We anchored for the night in a sheltered spot off the old whaling station in Loch Bun Abhainn-eader, 3 miles west of West Loch Tarbert, and moved up there the next morning.

Posted by skipper at 01:46 PM | Comments (1)

Wed 28 May 2008

2(F+J)

No, we are not trying to resurrect our schooldays algebra - this refers to the Skipper and Mate having the company of both Fan & James and Fin & J when the latter pair arrived in East Loch Tarbert for a holiday at Seilebost, on Harris. They dined on Arctica, and all four went on photo safari during the day, making good use of the availability of a hired car. We could not resist showing our own attempt at an artistic photo of rocks and lichen.After waving farewell to Fan & James on the ferry to Uig, and thence via Glasgow to South Britain, we decided to visit the west side of the Outer Hebrides, and sailed the first leg down to Hermetray, just off North Uist at the end of the Sound of Harris. Vaccasay Basin, where we anchored, now has an extensive fish farm, but there is room to anchor and avoid Dirt Rock. We let out plenty of chain and were untroubled by the strong winds which continued overnight.

Posted by skipper at 05:01 PM | Comments (0)

Sat 24 May 2008

Sea Lochs of North Harris

The sun was obscured by a layer of high cloud which cooled the day considerably and drained the colour from the landscape. This provided a good opportunity to explore Loch Seaforth, a fjord-like loch extending inland for some 15 miles. We went half way up, passing the extensive fish farm inside the entrance and the inlet of Loch Maaruig, and anchored off Ath Linne (photo) just past Seaforth Island, which boasts its own 'Marilyn'. The Crew opted for an afternoon of relaxation aboard, while the Skipper took to the handy hill track (signposted 'Walkers Welcome') and climbed Cearnabhal 378m and Liuthaid 492m, a nice pair of hills. We moved back out and round the point into Loch Claidh, where we spent the night in the lovely anchorage tucked in behind Eilean Hingerstay, where we saw black throated divers, otters, seals and a stag on the skyline above at sunset.

Posted by skipper at 05:47 PM | Comments (1)

Thu 22 May 2008

North Uist

We left Loch Skiport with the intention of staying a night at Kallin, Grimsay but found pier extension works in progress and the visitor's mooring temporarily removed. Resuming passage northwards, we carried on to Lochmaddy - and still the sun shone, showing everything at its best. The photographers revelled in the quality of light and range of subjects to catch their eye, while the skipper bagged a few more hills. Good use was made by all of the excellent facilities at the new Tigh Dearg Hotel, with a first class fitness suite, sauna and showers. Today we had an NE wind on the nose and motorsailed up to North Harbour, Scalpay where the sun came out again after an overcast morning.

Posted by skipper at 05:44 PM | Comments (0)

Mon 19 May 2008

Barra to South Uist

A smooth crossing to the Outer Isles saw Arctica back in Castlebay, Barra for the third time in three weeks, all in good weather. Fine views of islands were had from Heishval Mor 190m, the highest point of Vatersay, from Muldoanich (photo) down to Mingulay, while Fan and James visited Eoligarry at the north end. Acarseid Mor, Eriskay, a short sail north, was the next harbour. A new pontoon for lobster boats is in place beside the pier and ongoing earthworks give sign of further development to come. Beinn Scrien 185m was added to the list of island summits while the photographers immersed themselves in their art. A moderate sea with a light following breeze made for rather rolling progress to Loch Skiport, S Uist, where we anchored in the sheltered Poll na Cairidh and devoted the remainder of the day to the three R's (reading, relaxing, reposing).

Posted by skipper at 11:46 AM | Comments (0)

Thu 15 May 2008

Knoydart

With the Skipper on his own, the Marilyn theme and the fine weather continued with short trips to Inverie (photo) and Loch Hourn to climb Druim na Cluain-Airighe c500m and Beinn Mhialairigh 548m respectively. Back at Arisaig, on the return aboard of the Mate, a shopping expedition to Fort William saw stores replenished ready for the arrival of Fan and James for the next sortie. Before their arrival we enjoyed a bright, still evening - with Arisaig and views west to Eigg and Rum at their best. We left for Canna, planning to cross over the Sea of the Hebrides the next day to Barra, then gradually working our way north up the Outer Hebrides.

Posted by skipper at 03:27 PM | Comments (0)

Fri 9 May 2008

Hills and Harbours

On another fine day, but without a sailing wind, we crossed back east to the Inner Hebrides passing north of Canna and on to Kilmory Bay on the N coast of Rum, where we anchored. The bay is wide and sandy with rocky enclosing arms, and dozens of red deer were at rest on the sand or standing in the water's edge. We climbed Mullach Mor 304m, a modest hill with a big hill feature - a succession of false summits - but holding many attractive small lochans in its rough ground. The night was spent at the head of Loch Scavaig, a superb anchorage close to Loch Coruisk and the high Cuillins (photo), where we had the pleasure of meeting Norman and Gillian from 'Curlew' and spending a few hours chatting to them. In the morning we climbed Sgurr na Stri 497m and on return Andrew took an unscheduled dip as he slipped on the rocks when boarding the dinghy. Later, we headed for Mallaig Harbour to spend the last night of a very successful 'boys' week'.

Posted by skipper at 09:08 PM | Comments (0)

Marilyns

When Iain and Andrew arrived we immediately left Arisaig for Rum, dropping anchor in Loch Scresort off the old stone pier in company with four other boats. After dinner, we walked west some way along the track and on return found out that once again we had missed David and Stroma, who were over at Inverie for the night. An 0630 start next morning saw us heading for Barra, passing south of Canna and out past Hyskeir. We raised the cruising chute and had a grand sail over to Castlebay, changing down to reefed genoa as the wind got up to Force 5. As it was still early afternoon we made a leisurely ascent of Ben Tangaval, a 'Marilyn' (hill over 150m with a re-ascent of at least 150m on all sides, of which there are some 1500 throughout the UK) which Andrew was keen to climb. Next morning we anchored off Muldoanich 151m (another M, and the lowest one to qualify), which the crew climbed while the skipper kept watch aboard as the anchor was set on rock. After the short hop across to Sandray, we all climbed to its summit, Cairn Galtar 205m (yes, another M) from the lovely sandy beach at Meanish Bay. Our chosen anchorage tonight is the 'Blue Lagoon' between two outlying islands, a seldom visited spot requiring careful pilotage through the rock-strewn entry channel, where we are watched over by nesting golden eagles.

Posted by skipper at 06:23 PM | Comments (0)

Sat 3 May 2008

Back to Arisaig

On Coll we met the crews of two high speed launches which were playing the part of 'terrorists' for the multinational naval exercise taking place off the west coast of Scotland. Shortly after they set off for the day's manoeuvres we too left, sailing N up the deserted north-east coast of Coll to Sorisdale Bay, and on past the Cairns of Coll to Muck. Arriving at mid-tide, many of the drying reefs were covered, so we were careful to identify the leading line for a safe approach to Gallanach Bay and anchored well inshore. It was a very peaceful and attractive spot, with panoramic views of hills and mountains on Skye, Rum, Eigg and the mainland. We left in the morning with the forecast of a rising gale, motored across to Galmisdale on Eigg to recharge the batteries, then sailed double-reefed over to Arisaig to complete the week's circuit with Jim and Linda.

Posted by skipper at 09:35 PM | Comments (0)

Fri 2 May 2008

Call at Coll

Sailing SE from Barra across the Sea of the Hebrides, we passed through Gunna Sound which separates Coll and Tiree, and N into the anchorage at Arinagour, Coll's only village - complete with gun to repel unwanted visitors! The northern two-thirds and extreme SW tip of the island are Lewisian gneiss, its low hummocks infilled with peat bogs and lochans. The remaining third consists of very ancient metamorphosed sandstones containing quartz and marble. The west coast has a covering of wind-blown shell sand, forming dunes over 100ft high and machair suitable for grazing. The highest point is Ben Hogh at 341ft. On our walk across the island and round Cliad Bay we were delighted to have a chance encounter with Mhairi and John and young family, who were holidaying on the island.

Posted by skipper at 06:08 PM | Comments (0)

Tue 29 April 2008

Crossing the Minch

Now there's a good name for a tune! We crossed from Canna to Barra in fine weather, losing sunshine only for a spell, which reminded us how chilly it can be on the water in a northerly breeze so early in the season. Incidents during the trip - being buzzed by three jet fighters engaged in dogfighting practice, and sighting a couple of dolphins. Landfall was made at Muldoanich, and the channel markers followed in to Castlebay (photo) with its handy visitors' moorings. Today we took the bus west-about up to the airfield and watched the arrival and departure of the Glasgow/Barra/Benbecula flight, which lands on the beach at low tide, before walking to Eoligarry and along Traigh Scurrival, a mile and a half long beach of white sand with wonderful views out to offlying islands, Eriskay and South Uist. We completed the round-island trip by bussing east-about back to Castlebay.

Posted by skipper at 06:17 PM | Comments (0)

Sun 27 April 2008

Arisaig and Canna

We had good sailing from Mull round Ardnamurchan Point to Arisaig, arriving shortly before the wind really got up. The holding is good and we spent a comfortable at anchor night despite the strong wind and heavy rain. A phone next morning call to a yacht rigger on the Clyde provided directions for stripping down the Furlex gear, so while the mate took the train into Fort William for provisions, the skipper successfully repaired the headsail furling system. Later in the day we were joined for the week by Jim and Linda, who brought good weather with them - the evening turned out very fine. With good weather continuing we sailed out past Rum and round to Canna, enjoying views of the mainland hills. As the afternoon warmed up, the cloud level gradually rose, revealing the peaks of the Skye and Rum Cuillins. We walked across the new bridge to Sanday to visit the renovated church, but found it still a building site after five years of (very intermittent?) work.

Posted by skipper at 08:44 PM | Comments (0)

Thu 24 April 2008

Up Aloft

We have been having trouble with the headsail furling gear on Arctica - it has been excessively stiff to operate. No obvious problem at deck level could be found, so suspicion turned on the masthead. We have had to recognise that our days of climbing the mast are over, except when emergency dictates. News of our difficulties spread and the Harbourmaster suggested we have a word with the contractor building the new shoreside facilities following the installation of extended pontoon berthing. The upshot was a trip aloft in the basket of his extending crane, as the photo shows. Sadly, no problem was found there either but a couple of screws were tightened and WD40 applied liberally to the moving parts before descending to terra firma. Tomorrow will tell whether or not the problem has been fixed. Tonight we sleep with fingers crossed!

Posted by skipper at 09:20 PM | Comments (1)

Wed 23 April 2008

Otters

Last night was spent in the lovely anchorage at Puilladobhrain (Otters' Pool) but no otters were seen. However tonight at Tobermory we watched from the gangway to the mooring pontoon an otter, not twenty feet away, diving in repeatedly, bringing its catch to the rocks and crunching it down noisily. It being dusk, there was not light enough for a photo so today's photo is of Duart Castle, which stands imposingly on a headland at the southeast end of the Sound of Mull. It has been the ancestral home of the MacLeans since about 1250 although it was lost for 200 years to the Duke of Argyll, who overran it in 1691. It is open to the public, and an important tourist attraction on Mull, as is Tobermory itself, with its brightly painted seafront buildings and boats in the bay.

Posted by skipper at 10:12 PM | Comments (0)

Tue 22 April 2008

WHISKY TRAIL

It could be said that Arctica is on the whisky trail. After the first night of the season at Tighnabruaich, the next port of call was Campbeltown, home to two distilleries - Glen Scotia and Springbank. It was once the whisky capital of Scotland with 21 producing distilleries in 1886! A rare and favourable ENE wind took us round the Mull of Kintyre and nicely up to Islay, where there are 7 working distilleries. We are moored for the night in the small anchorage at Lagavulin, sheltered by islets outside and guarded over by the ruins of a castle on the point. With the UK Coastguard taking industrial action there are no usual weather forecasts for the next few days, but we can get alternatives by VHF from Ireland, on Navtex and on the Met Office website. The easterly airflow is set to continue, which is ideal for us as we sail north.

Posted by skipper at 09:41 PM | Comments (0)

Mon 14 April 2008

Afloat Again

The sailing season is underway and Arctica will be launched this week, after a flurry of cleaning, scrubbing, polishing, fixing, antifouling, loading and rigging. It will be nice to feel movement in her again after six months propped up ashore in the boatyard at Dumbarton. At last some warmth is creeping in to the lengthening days and we hope for a good summer ahead - Force 4 winds and sunshine! We will set off after receiving the few items on order and due for delivery in the next few days, and will be reporting our progress as usual. All friends are welcome to post comments on the blog.

Posted by skipper at 11:26 PM | Comments (0)