Mon 12 June 2006
LAPTOP LERGY
Poorly PC
Laptop kaput, blown 'fuse'. Can't get fixed here so will try in Norway.So, no more offshore blog entries until the Norwegians coax the laptop back to life. Don't you just love technology? Cross your fingers and watch this space...
Posted by skipper at 09:59 PM | Comments (0)
Sun 4 June 2006
MAINLAND - END TO END
Our first day of continuous rain and mist (in six weeks) saw us sailing from Papa Stour up to the beautiful fjord-like Sand Voe at the N tip of the Mainland. Next day we had an exhilarating sail, well reefed down in a Force 6/7, all the way down to Lerwick in gradually brightening weather. Since we got here the weather has been perfect. We met up with Bob and Kate, up from Glasgow to exhibit their vintage motorbike at the Classic Motor Show, and went with them to a 'Foy' - a supper ceilidh dance. Today we visited the Show - fascinating - and then took the bus to Sumburgh airport and walked out along the cliff top to Sumburgh Head Lighthouse, the S tip of the Mainland. Tomorrow we set off to visit the islands of Whalsay, Unst and the Out Skerries before returning to Lerwick before our North Sea crossing.
Posted by skipper at 11:42 PM | Comments (1)
Fri 2 June 2006
PAPA STOUR
We spent two nights at Vaila Sound (Walls) on the west mainland, yawing about the anchor in a strong gusting northerly. We were unable to get ashore, but anyway Walls seems to be a scattered township rather than a village proper. Today dawned brighter with the promise of less wind so we moved twelve miles north, with the tide but still into the prevailing wind, to Hamnavoe on the SW of Papa Stour. The east side of the island has a rough airstrip, two piers (new RoRo, old concrete) and about ten croft houses. The main attractions are the famed caves, geos, stacks and skerries - Fogla Skerry (outermost in photo) has subterranean passages through it bored by the sea. The ground above the cliffs on the west of the island is tundra-like and the haunt of many skuas.
Posted by skipper at 12:17 PM | Comments (1)
Sun 28 May 2006
Scalloway
We tied up alongside the Scalloway Boating Club pontoon and were made very welcome. It was the evening of a sea-fishing competition and a bag of lovely fresh pollack was put aboard for us while we were in the bar. Scalloway is the ancient capital of Shetland but, other than a large harbour and a ruined castle, seems to have little of interest for the visitor - except the little Shetland Bus museum, when open. There are some pleasant walks, though. Next day, we were joined by 'Ice Maiden', 49ft go-anywhere steel sloop, sister ship to 'Maiden' which raced round the world with Tracy Edwards and an all-women crew some years ago. Ice Maiden has been south to South Georgia and north to Spitsbergen, and we have just realised that Shetland is nearer to the North Pole than South Georgia is to the South Pole. With the strong, cold wind today, we can believe it!
Posted by skipper at 09:00 PM | Comments (0)
Fri 26 May 2006
Fair Isle
Fair Isle lies midway between Orkney and Shetland, but is a 'must see' destination in its own right, so we spent a few days there enjoying the peace and tranquility, bird life, landscape/seascape and sunshine. As you see, we were berthed in the North Haven next to the island's lifeline vessel the 'Good Shepherd'. Fair Isle is Britain's most isolated inhabited island - population approx. 70 - with life (other than the Bird Observatory) mainly based around traditional crofting supplemented with various craft activities. The coastline is very rugged with geos, cliffs, stacks and skerries all around, with the shoreline easily accessible in only a few places. We enjoyed a slide show on South Georgia at the Observatory last night and this afternoon left for Shetland. We are now in Scalloway and looking forward to exploring the west coast of Shetland before making for Lerwick.
Posted by skipper at 10:37 PM | Comments (0)
Tue 16 May 2006
Orkney
We sailed on past Handa, then had a sudden man-overboard drill as the dinghy painter parted. Despite the wind, the dinghy drifted away slower than expected, and we were able to down sail and motor back for it in good style. We spent the night in Kinlochbervie, a pale shadow of a once busy fishing harbour, being the first yacht of the year to call. From there we made the 13 hour passage round Cape Wrath and across to Orkney. Since then we have sunbathed in Stromness, bussed across to Kirkwall, and visited the Scapa Flow anchorages of Houton, St Mary's, St Margaret's Hope (photo) and Burray (beside the Churchill Barrier). At St Margaret's Hope, on South Ronaldsay, we cycled the length and breadth of the island and had a fine dinner at The Creel restaurant, run by Alan Craigie, Scotland's Restaurant Chef of the Year 2006. Now back in Stromness, we plan to go west-about round the Mainland and into Kirkwall in the face of a deteriorating weather forecast.
Posted by skipper at 10:05 PM | Comments (0)
Thu 4 May 2006
ON PAST THE OLD MAN OF STOER
On passage from Tanera Mor (Summer Isles) to Lochan Saile (Badcall) we took Arctica close inshore for this photo of the Old Man of Stoer. It being Saturday we hoped to see climbers, but were disappointed. However, a fixed traverse rope from the shore side remains in place. There is always an extra frisson of excitement on entering an anchorage for the first time, and so it was with Lochan Saile. The approach from Eddrachillis Bay is through a scattering of islands and islets, past narrows with a central reef, then a final turn in to a sheltered pool, well protected by reefs. Here we are enjoying the proximity of red throated divers and greylag geese.
Posted by skipper at 10:38 PM | Comments (5)
Wed 3 May 2006
OOPS!
The skipper of a neighbouring yacht, obviously suffering more from cabin fever than we were, took "Judicious" out for an evening spin (or to seek the end of the rainbow over at Kyle?) but took an injudicious course across the old ferry slip and ran aground very publicly. Fortunately, it was around low water and the only damage was his acute embarrassment - he floated off again an hour later. We gave the slip a wide berth on leaving the next morning!
Posted by skipper at 10:36 PM | Comments (1)
Tue 2 May 2006
KYLEAKIN
The Mate rejoined ship after a free bus trip up from Glasgow. On a dreich day of mist and rain we bussed to Portree to replenish stores, and sat out a second day of frequent showers, some of hail. As the photo shows, it is an attractive place to lie, alongside a pontoon under the ruins of Dunollie Castle with Loch Duich and the hills of Kintail to the east.
Posted by skipper at 10:35 PM | Comments (0)
Sat 29 April 2006
TORRIDON HILLS
Fine weather, if a bit short of wind, continued as we visited Fladday south, Acarseid Mor (S Rona), inner Loch Torridon (where the views of the hills were magnificent) and Shieldaig, returning to Kyleakin by way of a short stop at the inner anchorage of the Crowlin Islands. Cass caught (just) the train back to Inverness after a sprint across the bridge to Kyle of Lochalsh.
Posted by skipper at 10:33 PM | Comments (0)
Fri 28 April 2006
SKYE BRIDGE
We sailed up the Sound of Sleat, passing through the Kylerhea narrows with a 5kt flood tide, and out beneath the Skye Bridge (now toll-free) where the juxtaposition of old and new, the lighthouse on Eilean Bhan and the soaring bridge above, makes an interesting contrast. At Portree we shopped and Cass visited friends at the local dental practice. Churchtown Bay, Raasay was the next port of call where we picked up a visitors' mooring. We donned boots and enjoyed a pleasant walk up Dun Caan, the micro Stac Pollaidh which sits atop the island.
Posted by skipper at 10:32 PM | Comments (0)
Wed 26 April 2006
BOY'S WEEK
As the Mate departed home to attend to domestic matters, so arrived Cass from Inverness to join Arctica for a week. After overnighting in Oban to let the worst of a southerly gale blow over, we sailed down the Sound of Mull and back to Loch Sunart. Next morning, we went ashore at Loch Borrodale (N side of L Sunart) to visit Cass' family cottage for its post-winter check up. Unspoiled by over-modernisation, it sits in a lovely spot on the slopes overlooking the loch, with open moor above and mature woodland below. In the afternoon we motored against a headwind out to Ardnamurchan Point, then were frustrated when the wind died away just as we were expecting to enjoy a broad reach up to Arisaig - so it was onwards under the iron sail! Arisaig was as pretty as ever, with a new trot of moorings added this season as its popularity as a summer cruising base increases.
Posted by skipper at 10:31 PM | Comments (0)
FIRST TIMERS
We were joined by Steve, Sharon and Aishlene as novice crew for a weekend sail out of Dunstaffnage, by Oban. Newcomers to sailing perhaps, but not to having a good time and being great company. They revelled in the force 6/7 gusting 8 which powered us across to the Sound of Mull, scorned the handy bolthole of Loch Aline and shrugged off the rain as we continued to a sheltered anchorage in Loch Sunart. Sunday gave us sunshine and a more moderate wind so we enjoyed a fine sail back to Loch Aline for lunch and a walk ashore, then returned to Dunstaffnage in the evening. Aishlene seemed to enjoy her trip up the mast in the bosun's chair!
Posted by skipper at 10:29 PM | Comments (1)
Mon 17 April 2006
SETTING SAIL
Arctica's exit from Crinan sea-lock into west coast waters marks the start of our 2006 cruising adventure. While the distant shores of Norway are our goal, there is much interest and enjoyment to be had along our leisurely way via Orkney, Fair Isle and Shetland. Arctica is in good shape, the Skipper and Mate tolerably so, and we set off with high hopes as liveaboards for five months. Our occasional photo-diary will record some of the events, places and impressions as we go. Do not expect a postcard as well! Feel free to post comments or questions to enliven the blog.
Posted by skipper at 10:28 PM | Comments (1)