For the trip down to Portree we had a glassy calm sea – ideal for spotting cetaceans – and we saw porpoises and dolphins but no whales. Showers rolled round and over the mainland hills but, despite the skies greying over, we reached Portree before the rain started. The next morning we sailed with the tide down to Kyleakin, berthing for the afternoon at the visitors’ pontoon. Again, the rain started just after our arrival but later we were able to get a short walk ashore. When the tide turned in our favour again we passed down through Kyle Rhea to Isle Ornsay, and anchored in time for a meal before the light faded. Strong winds overnight and all the following day saw us (and a few other yachts) waiting for better conditions – which did arrive today. A light southerly breeze has us motorsailing down the Sound of Sleat, making for Loch Scresort, Rum.