At Rum, we had hoped to see David and Stroma (and young Jamie) who are the island managers for Scottish Natural Heritage, but they were away on holiday. We walked in to the centre of the island but did not have time for the extra six miles required for a visit to the old village of Kilmory. Kinloch Castle, at the head of Loch Scresort, built at the turn of the century by Sir George Bullough, whose father made the family fortune designing milling machinery, is an extravagant monument to Edwardian opulence. Turtles and alligators were kept in heated tanks, a pure white Arab stallion was imported to improve the stock of native ponies, and two Albion cars were used to transport guests. Today, in faded grandeur, it provides B&B and hostel accommodation and hosts a few weddings. We had a grand sail from Rum down to Ardnamurchan point and up the Sound of Mull to Loch Aline – wind and tide with us all the way. Now in Oban, we will restock and prepare for guests joining us for the weekend.