Fair Isle lies midway between Orkney and Shetland, and is renowned for the diversity of its bird life – indigenous and migratory. The RSPB Bird Observatory offers dinner, a bar and showers for visiting yachts and, in our case an address at which mail can be collected. Of all the seabirds the puffin is the most endearing, and these chaps are typical – they can be approached to within an few feet.