Wed 10 September 2008
Back to the Clyde
The first stop on our return leg to the Clyde was Carsaig, a few miles south of Crinan - an attractive village set round the bay, offering a nice half-mile walk across the peninsula to the more sheltered but less accessible Tayvallich. On a dreich, windless morning we started down the Sound of Jura but after a couple of hours the weather improved and we reached Gigha in bright sunshine, seeing a dolphin with calf in Ardminish Bay. Ashore, we enjoyed playing in an impromptu music session, walked to Achamore Gardens, and at night stargazed into the very clear sky. Mike left us the next morning, taking the ferry to Tayinloan, and we set off to round the Mull of Kintyre. Off the lighthouse, we met with /Seol na Mara /and passed across her Skipper's bunnet, which Peter had sorely missed. There followed four hours of frustrating motor-sailing without making any appreciable headway against the fierce tide - but as it eased we were able to continue to Campbeltown. After a showery day at Brodick, we made up to Rhu, where the Mate gutted the bucketful of mackerel we caught off Inverkip. Our final day started with a visit to Iain and Barbara in Helensburgh, then we motored up-river to Dumbarton where we were immediately de-masted and lifted out for the winter. Our summer cruising had occupied 121 days, covered 1,760 nautical miles, and visited 70 anchorages.
Posted by skipper at 02:22 PM | Comments (1)
Sat 30 August 2008
Rathlin to Oban
Our second attempt at crossing to Islay was different - instead of too much wind we had too little and had to motorsail. Unfortunately, steady rain started at Port Ellen so none of us ventured ashore. Ann left on the ferry to Kennacraig the next morning and the three of us left shortly thereafter, ghosting through the Ardmore Islands inside passage and catching a good haul of mackerel before picking up a fair wind for Craighouse, Jura. From there we had a cracking sail up the Sound of Jura to Ardfern, where we anchored and went ashore for a drink in the Galley of Lorne inn. After a peaceful night we got away to catch the flood tide through the Dorus Mor and Sound of Luing, turning west for a first visit to the Black Islands, where we lunched in the good anchorage. A planned landing on the Garvellachs was abandoned when we found the Garbh Eileach anchorage to be tiny with no swinging room, so we made on to Oban, where we moored as usual on a vacant mooring just off the esplanade. A trip ashore saw us restocked for the final week of cruising, with lift-out booked at Dumbarton for Thursday 4 September.
Posted by skipper at 07:55 AM | Comments (0)
Mon 25 August 2008
Portrush and Ballycastle
Sailing past the Giant's Causeway (unimpressive from seaward - dwarfed by columnar cliffs along the north Antrim coast) we reached Portrush, and dined at the much-recommended Harbour Bistro - liked the food but not the two hour wait for it. Next day we took the train to Londonderry and walked round the old city walls, visited the siege museum and browsed the second-hand bookshops and charity shops. A poor weather forecast ruled out rounding Malin Head so we stayed another day in Portrush. Mike and the Skipper accepted an invitation to crew on a racing yacht, which was fun but wet in a Force 7 wind. Continuing westerlies made us abandon plans to go out west to Tory Island, so we headed back east to Ballycastle, an attractive resort with a smallish marina. After strong overnight winds the forecast of SW 5-7 was ideal for sailing north to Islay, and we set off with barely 10kts of wind registering. However it blew up suddenly, and in no time we had a W 7 gusting 8 with big seas from wind over strong tide, and a small tear appeared in the reefed headsail. We turned and ran downwind into Rathlin, where we await better conditions before continuing north.
Posted by skipper at 12:44 PM | Comments (1)
Wed 20 August 2008
Rathlin Island
With Mike and Ann aboard, our destination on a lunchtime departure from Campbeltown was Rathlin, making use of the ebb tide through the North Channel. A northerly 5 gusting 6 gave us a stirring sail down to Sanda Sound, but we then decided to spare Ann (not a happy sailor) the longer haul and put in for the night at Sanda south anchorage, tucked under 'The Ship' lighthouse,well sheltered from the sea running outside. The demands of tide saw us on our way again in darkness at 0415 into a westerly breeze, with rough seas at first until clear of the Mull of Kintyre. Thereafter the crossing was easy, but requiring a huge course offset to allow for the strong cross-tide. At Rue Point, the S end of Rathlin, and slightly behind schedule, we ran into a 5kt tide race and spent most of an hour clawing our way through to slack water and into the shelter of the breakwaters to tie up alongside the pontoon at 0915. After a hearty breakfast and catching up a couple of hours sleep we went ashore for walks. Rathlin is an attractive island, popular with day trippers who are soon left behind as you walk quiet roads bordering fields of black cattle fattening on the lush grass. There is a bird reserve, but a trip there will have to await our next visit.
Posted by skipper at 06:42 PM | Comments (0)
Sun 17 August 2008
Bangor and Glenarm
We spent a day in Bangor, taking it easy and visiting the many charity shops and the excellent second-hand bookshop. A pint of Guinness in The Black Boat Bar went down well. At night, the Skipper returned for the live music but was disappointed to find it was not traditional Irish. However, in the back room at Fealty's Bar there was a good going session with flute, banjo, 3 fiddles, mandolin and guitar. They were happy for a moothie to join them and the music went on until 2am. A wet and windy forecast induced us to stay for a second day, but the actual weather was not so bad although heavy rain started in late afternoon and continued through the night, causing widespread flooding throughout Northern Ireland. Today we sailed to Glenarm with its charming little marina and helpful harbourmaster. We walked the three miles to Carnlough and confirmed that its small harbour (photo) has no room for a visiting yacht. Tomorrow we head for Campbeltown to be joined by Mike and Ann for a spell.
Posted by skipper at 09:43 PM | Comments (0)
Fri 15 August 2008
Girvan and Portpatrick
Heading SE to Girvan with a reef in the sails, we had a S5/6 to give us a stirring sail with Ailsa Craig acting as route marker. With a little lee provided by the shore, the seas off the harbour entrance were somewhat reduced and we were sheltered by the breakwater before crossing the sand bar, with 3ft of water to spare, into the harbour. The town, like many a fishing/seaside resort, has a run down air - boarded up shops, downmarket offerings and little sign of reinvestment - but is in a nice setting with low green hills behind. We moved south to Portpatrick (photo) on a windless day, and into the small harbour with its tight and twisting entrance without difficulty. On a hot summer's day the place was alive with visitors - kids on the beach and fishing from rocks, outdoor tables for food and drink, an amusement arcade and folk strolling everywhere. The next leg took us SW across the North Channel to Bangor, Co Down with Ireland's self proclaimed best marina, where we are spending two nights. Bangor is a prosperous town with well developed tourism and a good range of facilities.
Posted by skipper at 10:51 AM | Comments (0)
Tue 12 August 2008
Music... at last!
It was a lively evening in Port Ellen as we played in the Ardview Inn - including a bit of highland dancing in the tiny lounge bar. While Seol na Mara sailed for Rathlin, we spent the next day on Islay, bussing to Portnahaven, a very pretty village centred round a shallow harbour. The two boats met up again at Sanda (off the Mull of Kintyre) on Friday evening for the Bowling Harbour Ceilidh Band weekend at the Byron Darnton inn, and were joined by Mike who had spent most of the day bussing over from Fife. Sanda is a lovely little island, more Hebridean than Clyde, with an excellent pub serving good food, letting cottages, bunkhouse and camping space. It is popular with the local worthies from Southend, who come and go in all states of inebriation in a variety of ribs and speedboats. We had a weekend of music, song and drink, punctuated by an overnight SE gale, which saw a number of yachts leaving in the early morning - but the holding is excellent and we rode it out comfortably. On Sunday afternoon, after a final outdoor session in the sunshine, we sailed off to Campbeltown and later saw Mike off on the bus for home.
Posted by skipper at 11:32 AM | Comments (1)