Mon 24 August 2009

The Final Few Days

We got away from Arisaig on a grey morning, but by the time we rounded Ardnamurchan Point the weather had improved and we had good sailing in to Loch Sunart, where we anchored off Charna Island. The showery, gusty weather pattern resumed, but next day we had an easy sail up the Sound of Mull, then a storming broad reach across to Oban in a Force 7 wind. The visitors' moorings are quite exposed so we had a fairly rough lie until the wind moderated during the night. We had to motor the next passage down to Crinan against a southerly wind, but by early afternoon we were at anchor off Crinan sea lock in bright sunshine. Our intention was to return to the Clyde by way of the Mull of Kintyre, but the forecast of a southerly gale prompted us to opt for going through the Crinan Canal instead. Short handed, we teamed up with another yacht with four aboard and so made steady progress, but the day of transit proved the wettest of our whole summer's cruising. Today we left Ardrishaig and are spending our last night aboard at Rothesay, before the last leg tomorrow up river to Dumbarton, where Arctica will be lifted out to complete a very successful season's cruising.

Posted by skipper at 10:48 PM | Comments (0)

Wed 19 August 2009

Gales and Strong Winds

The forecast proved accurate - we had an easterly gale followed by a westerly gale as a deep depression passed over the Outer Isles. However, our third day at Castlebay (photo) saw the return of fair weather and we were able to get ashore for the 13 mile walk round the island. Despite our familiarity with Barra, we never tire of this walk with its ever changing views and the contrast between east and west coasts. Departing the next day, we crossed the Sea of the Hebrides to Rum, passing between the lonely light of Haskeir and the Humla Rock to its NE, and stopping outside Loch Scresort to catch mackerel for tea. A calm night followed, but with the wind rising and another gale expected we slogged down to the shelter of Arisaig, where we anchored just off the moorings. We are now on our second day of steady rain, little visibility and strong winds, with little prospect of change in sight yet. We are comfortable with plenty of books to read!

Posted by skipper at 10:30 AM | Comments (0)

Thu 13 August 2009

Lots More Hills

The morning was grey and misty, with a SW wind against us as we made down to Lochboisdale. It dried up after our arrival, so we walked the six mile round trip to the Daliburgh Co-op for provisions. At tea-time the mist cleared off the hills, and the Skipper set off for an evening ascent of Beinn Ruigh Choinnich and Triuirebheinn above the anchorage. The next day we anchored in Acarseid Mor, Eriskay and cycled over the causeway back to South Uist to climb Roneval and Eashaval. We enjoyed a pint in the Politician before returning aboard. The following day gave us perfect weather for the day's expeditions to Muldoanich and Pabbay for their hills (photo of anchorage at Pabbay). We passed close by a minke whale off Gighay and saw a dolphin, but sadly no basking sharks. We are now in Castlebay, Barra fully restocked and ready to cross the Sea of the Hebrides to the Small Isles, but our departure may be delayed by the current forecast of strong easterly winds.

Posted by skipper at 09:56 PM | Comments (0)

Tue 11 August 2009

Meeting Other Boats

We headed out through the Sound of Harris and anchored off Pabbay while the Skipper climbed its hill - Beinn a'Charnain. The island is small with sandy beaches and good sheep grazing - all reminiscent of the larger Taransay. Returning through the Cope Passage, we crossed Vaccasay Basin again to the shallow Bagh Chaise, from where Crogary na Hoe was climbed. Then it was off again for the short trip round to Lochmaddy and a mooring off the pier (photo). The next morning dawned bright and sunny, so we did not wait for the shop to open, but left early for Loch Eport a few miles south. There we met Norman and Gillian on Curlew, and had a good chat with them over coffee before climbing Eaval, a fine hill giving extensive views over the Uists and Benbecula. In the afternoon, we moved further south and anchored in the Wizard Pool, Loch Skipport on the NE of South Uist. Shortly after arriving, we were joined by Milvina and her Scottish/Canadian crew, whom we had met earlier in the season at Fair Isle. They had not long returned from Norway, where in Alesund they had met Peter and Neil in Seol na Mara. We enjoyed a convivial evening with them, watching a bright orange moon rise in the east.

Posted by skipper at 09:08 PM | Comments (0)

Sun 9 August 2009

Back Aboard

We resumed our summer cruise at Lochinver after travelling up by bus via Inverness and Ullapool. It was a fine, balmy evening and we met the first midges of the trip. A prawn fisherman gave us these four lovely whiting, which fed us for the next two days. We left on a fine, sunny but windless morning and motored down to Loch Gairloch, where we moored at Badachro. We left next morning in a S5 gusting 6, which gave us good sailing west across to the north of Skye and past Eilean Trodday. We decided to make best use of the wind and carried on across the Little Minch to the Sound of Harris, anchoring in Vaccasay Basin at Hermetray. It was low water springs and Dirt Rock was showing as a nasty row of rocky teeth. There is now a fish farm in the basin, but there is still plenty of room to anchor clear of it. The wind gradually died away to give a quiet evening.

Posted by skipper at 07:48 AM | Comments (0)

Tue 7 July 2009

Home again, Home again...........................

The weather seemed to settle into a pattern of warm, sunny days with thundery showers breaking out in the evenings. We spent an afternoon in the pub watching Andy Murray's exit from Wimbledon, and another walking from Lochinver to the bookshop and cafe at Inverkirkaig - always an interesting place to visit. We were given some lovely fresh pollack for tea after failing to catch any ourselves. Lochinver seems a good place to leave a boat, so we have left Arctica on the pontoon there for four weeks and gone home to do other things for a spell. We are signing off for now with this calm photo of warm sunshine and a smooth sea. To be continued........................

Posted by skipper at 04:22 PM | Comments (2)

Thu 2 July 2009

A Change in the Weather

We were joined for lunch by Ken and Ann, who drove over from Kirkwall in their open-top sports car. A Caterham 7, its dark green body, yellow nose and red leather seats drew admiring glances in Stromness. Soon after, Seol na Mara arrived with crew of Peter, Neil and Angus. In the evening we had a lively ceilidh with everyone in good form. We left early next morning for the crossing to the N coast, and motored in bright sunshine and a smooth sea across to Talmine, at the mouth of the Kyle of Tongue. Five miles out from Hoy and in deep water we were caught on a fishing buoy, but fortunately got it detached without difficulty. After dinner some showers started drifting over - the first rain for many weeks. Another still, bright morning saw us motoring again, west to Cape Wrath (photo) and south to Kinlochbervie. On the way we saw the spectacular sight of killer whales breaching repeatedly. Once berthed, we watched the cockpit thermometer rise steadily to an oppressive 99.7F (37.6C) but before it could reach 100F there was a dramatic weather change. In the space of minutes the sky darkened, lightning flashed, thunder rolled, a sudden howling wind shook the boat and the rain beat down in torrents. It was certainly dramatic if not downright scary!

Posted by skipper at 07:47 PM | Comments (1)